busted diff bolt

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Oct 27, 2008 | 06:03 AM

#31

rallydriver

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Joined: Dec 2007

Posts: 133

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From: New Jersey Shore

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bowser50

I worked at napa for a minute, never heard of grade ten's ever, sold literally millions of nuts and bolts to oil rigs and they always chose grade 8 bolts and nuts. Grade 8 is stronger than grade 5 but this doesn't mean you should always use Grade 8 they are just stronger, it just depends on what your application is, I would suggest using grade 8's where there areas of high stress like on bumpers and winches and frames, grade 5 should be fine for holding a dif cover. by the way grade 8's have six hash marks on top grade 5's have 3 in a y shape at top. hope that helps.

Here is all the info on Grade 5, 8, and Class 8.8, and 10.9.

http://www.boltdepot.com/fastener-in...ade-Chart.aspx

Oct 27, 2008 | 07:57 PM

#32

tiebox

Registered User

Joined: Nov 2006

Posts: 69

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From: midwest

After the 1st front and rear diff. fluid change it is a good idea to toss the original bolts as well as the gasket on the 2nd time around. The bolts are of a soft metal and stretch and have already been done so by the factory once than us for the second time.
The gasket is being compressed so I change that out too.
Don't forget to use the red thread lock on the bolts just below the head when reinstalling or replacing.
Grade 8s are harder than grade 5 and instead of breaking the head off there is a good chance it will strip the threads on the housing first no matter what it does its a PIA eithe getting it out with the easy out than tapping and coiling the hole ( I hear ya Spooler) Grade 5 stretch more than 8s but of course you can only stretch it so far than snap.
Kinda like lug nuts after you stretch the nut a couple of times the nut strips before the stud just a diff. hardness.