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Bought a used 06, first diesel, what is a "must do" ?

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Old Jan 29, 2011 | 11:22 AM
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Bought a used 06, first diesel, what is a "must do" ?

Like the title states, I just purchased a used 06 3500 auto quad cab longbox. The truck has 88,000 miles on it. I found out from a local dealership that the truck was "serviced" regularly. This was a corporate truck from a business. Although when I asked about front and rear differential/transfer case fluid changes they said they had not done it during a shop visit.

My questions at this point is, what are the "must do" items I should be looking after the purchase of this truck maintenance wise? I've been scouring these pages daily and picking through search after search


Also, keep in mind this is my first diesel truck.
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Old Jan 29, 2011 | 04:19 PM
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I put an eXcel spreadsheet together to track what has been done and what has to be done, plus the interval. The simple response, in my mind, would be to change all the filters and fluids to get a known baseline. Then you can schedule maintenance or part replacement rather than having it bite you in the butt!

Procedure Mileage Cycle Due Next Date of Last Svc Comments
Front Drive Shaft Lube 95,000 5,000 95,000 Due
Adjust Valves 95,500 50,000 95,000 Due
Transfer Case Fluid 95,000 Due ATF+4
Flush Brake Fluid 95,000 Due DOT4
Balance 95,000 Due
Steering Box Support 95,000 5,000 100,000 10-Dec-2010 Custom-Diesel.com
Coolant Hoses 96,000 10,000 100,000 15-Jan-2011 Inspected
Oil and Filter 96,500 5,000 100,000 29-Jan-2011 Baldwin CBT7349
Upper Ball Joints 94,500 10,000 105,000 1-Dec-2010 Inspected XRF Spring
Lower Ball Joints 94,500 10,000 105,000 1-Dec-2010 Inspected XRF Spring
RF Center Link 94,500 10,000 105,000 1-Dec-2010 Replaced
Tie Rods 94,500 10,000 105,000 1-Dec-2010 Inspected
Front Brake Pads 94,500 10,000 105,000 1-Dec-2010 Inspected
Front Brake Rotors 94,500 10,000 105,000 1-Dec-2010 Inspected
Rear Brake Pads 94,500 10,000 105,000 1-Dec-2010 Inspected
Rear Brake Rotors 94,500 10,000 105,000 1-Dec-2010 Inspected
Front Shocks 94,500 10,000 105,000 F4-BE5-C604-H0
Rear Shocks 94,500 10,000 105,000 F4-BE5-C614-H0
Fuel Filter 95,000 10,000 105,000 11-Dec-2010 Baldwin PF7977
Parking Brake 95,500 10,000 105,000 9-Jan-2011
Power Steering Fluid 96,500 10,000 105,000 29-Jan-2011 Due ATF+4
Flush Coolant 96,000 10,000 106,000 15-Jan-2011 Fricofin
Alignment 94,500 15,000 110,000 1-Dec-2010 Watkins
Rear Differential 95,500 15,000 110,000 9-Jan-2011 75W90 Syn
Front Differential 95,900 15,000 110,000 9-Jan-2011 75W90 Syn
Air Filter 95,000 20,000 115,000 11-Dec-2010 PA4162
Trans Service 96,500 30,000 125,000 29-Jan-2011 Baldwin 18055
Headlight Bulbs 95,500 PIAA H13
Bully Dog 95,500 15-Dec-2010 Palmer
Bed Holes from 5th Wheel Welding
Drive Belt Gates K081264HD
Batteries Due Load Test
Lower Rad Hose Gates 22893
Upper Rad hose Gates 22892
Thermostat Gates 33915
Radiator Cap Gates 31528
Tensioner Gates 38285
Water Pump Gates 43526
Kat's Lower Rad Hose Htr 22-Jan-2011
Battery Blankets 22-Jan-2011

If anyone wants a copy, PM me and I'll send you a copy of the spreadsheet.
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Old Jan 29, 2011 | 04:20 PM
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Depends if you are the handyman type. The manual should state the service requirements and there should be some records of services either in the service record manual or in the form of dealer work orders and receipts. Changing fuel filter frequently is one of the extras over a gas counterpart. Pretty much the same as a gas HD truck. Keep the tank full of diesel from a reputable source, warm it up before you take off in the morning, if you have worked the truck under any load idle it for a couple of minutes before shutting it off. EG if you pulled a heavy trailer one side of the Rockies (or the hills in WA state) and you had to stop at the top for some reason. that would be where you would idle it down first before shutting down. I know a semi driver that this happened to and $6000 later after a new turbo.......
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Old Jan 29, 2011 | 06:37 PM
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Thanks for the info. I am all about following manufacturer schedules for maint. , but I was wondering moreso if I should just do a complete fluids flush and replace throughout the truck as suggested above.

Although that sounds pretty pricey for full synthetics throughout and coolant as well as filters, I guess one cannot be too meticulous.

Thank you again for the responses.
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Old Jan 29, 2011 | 07:51 PM
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I you go through it you will have the peace of mind and a good new starting point for future maintenance.
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Old Jan 30, 2011 | 12:01 AM
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Originally Posted by lucretius76
Thanks for the info. I am all about following manufacturer schedules for maint. , but I was wondering moreso if I should just do a complete fluids flush and replace throughout the truck as suggested above.

Although that sounds pretty pricey for full synthetics throughout and coolant as well as filters, I guess one cannot be too meticulous.

Thank you again for the responses.
Compared to the cost of a rebuild, the cost of just doing all the filters and fluids pales in comparison. I did this with my '06 when I got it with 27k on the odometer and was glad I did.



Kris
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Old Jan 30, 2011 | 09:04 AM
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From: Texas
Originally Posted by lucretius76
Like the title states, I just purchased a used 06 3500 auto quad cab longbox. The truck has 88,000 miles on it. I found out from a local dealership that the truck was "serviced" regularly. This was a corporate truck from a business. Although when I asked about front and rear differential/transfer case fluid changes they said they had not done it during a shop visit.

My questions at this point is, what are the "must do" items I should be looking after the purchase of this truck maintenance wise? I've been scouring these pages daily and picking through search after search


Also, keep in mind this is my first diesel truck.

Get your fluids fresh. Diffs, engine oil, tcase at the minimum. Check your coolant, top off or change out brake fluid and PS fluid.

Install additional 2mic filter to help.

Continue with the owners manual maint. schedule.
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Old Jan 30, 2011 | 09:06 AM
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Replace number 4 injector line now and carry your original as the spare. MANY posts on this.
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Old Jan 30, 2011 | 09:28 AM
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Make sure that all wires passing your A/C compressor that are in a wire loom and are not touching it.
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...ht=a%2Fc+codes

Another '06 issue
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Old Jan 30, 2011 | 10:16 AM
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This is kinda advice I was looking for,..thanks a ton all!
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Old Jan 31, 2011 | 07:28 AM
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Originally Posted by BigDogJeepin
Replace number 4 injector line now.
2003 and newer are common rail.
Do they have seperate injection lines?
or as the name implies, a common rail?
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Old Jan 31, 2011 | 08:22 AM
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Originally Posted by Timberwolf2
2003 and newer are common rail.
Do they have seperate injection lines?
or as the name implies, a common rail?
A common rail (looks like a tube) is pressurized with fuel, there is a separate line from there that goes to each injector. As the name implies, common rail.
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Old Jan 31, 2011 | 09:11 AM
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And no, no special tools required to remove the line. It will not be pressurized when the engine is off. It's very straight forward. Make sure the plastic clamp "isolator" is also tight on the rest of the lines.
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Old Jan 31, 2011 | 09:51 PM
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From: wyoming
Originally Posted by lucretius76
Like the title states, I just purchased a used 06 3500 auto quad cab longbox. The truck has 88,000 miles on it. I found out from a local dealership that the truck was "serviced" regularly. This was a corporate truck from a business. Although when I asked about front and rear differential/transfer case fluid changes they said they had not done it during a shop visit.

My questions at this point is, what are the "must do" items I should be looking after the purchase of this truck maintenance wise? I've been scouring these pages daily and picking through search after search


Also, keep in mind this is my first diesel truck.
do you have cold winters. if so keep up on additive. i live in wyoming and it was -40 windchill and -55 windchill in another town. 2 trucks would not start today at work.
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Old Feb 1, 2011 | 09:02 AM
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Originally Posted by BigDogJeepin
Replace number 4 injector line now and carry your original as the spare. MANY posts on this.
I got about 70k before the #4 line crapped out, made a mess! Easy $50 fix. In retrospect I'd have replaced the line at about 50k, since I read it was an issue. Parts guy at the Dodge dealer said they sell a couple #4 lines a week and NONE of the other ones!
Be prepared for the steering box to go out, $150 at Napa or buy a HD aftermarket box and never woryy about it again.
Otherwise, complete fluid change as others have mentioned.
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