I know I posted on this months ago, but I have not been able to locate the problem and the dealer almost has me convinced there isn't a problem.

To re-cap, batteries were dead in 1-2 days (key off). These were the original 3 year old batteries. I had installed a kill switch that I shut off at night. About a month ago I installed 2 brand new batteries and turned off switch every time truck was off to keep from drawing down new batteries.

Amp meter installed across disconnected neg. cable end and batt. post (pass batt also disconnected) reads 2.9 to 3.0 amps. When I disconnect underhood lamp, amp draw drops to 2.0 to 2.1 amps. I have done this with two different meters, I am not an electrician, I think I am using meter correctly. Leads plugged into "common" and "10 amp" ports and both meters read the same.

Last week I finally got truck back to dealer.They called me the next day and told me their 2000 dollar meter was reading a .14 amp draw and that this was normal. I asked them to keep the truck for one week with the kill switch on, and sure enough, 5 days later the truck stated for them confirming to them there is no problem. I picked the truck up this morning, it seemed to crank a little slow to me (It was 10 degrees f), but did start. I am now wondering if new batteries were the reason that the truck still started after 5 days, even with a 2 amp draw? I re-checked draw just now, and both meter still read 2.10 (Hood lamp is still disconnected). I am at a loss.

Any input would be greatly appreciated.

 

Try checking the batteries next time when dead for a bad cell, which is what happen to mine.

 

There is nothing normal about even the .14 amp draw they claim you have. After all modules have gone offline, Dodge spec for ignition-off-draw is .030 amps (30 milliamps) or less.

If this is a quad cab, you have electric locking seatbelt retractors built into the seats, which will draw current for over 20 minutes after key-off, before they power down. They will then power back up as soon as the module sees a door ajar signal. Therefore, these vehicles must be tested a certain way.

Hook up the ammeter again, in series, with the other battery disconnected like you described, leave your windows down and no key in the ignition, and walk away for over half an hour. Then come back and read your draw. It should be under 30 milliamps. Reach in through the window and see if you can pull out the shoulder belt. The retractor should be locked.

Note, some ammeters will time out before the half hour is up. In this case, I will add a jumper wire in parallel with the ammeter, so I can reset the ammeter after the half hour without risking breaking the circuit, then remove the jumper and read the ammeter.


On edit: I just noticed you have two trucks in your signature, I was writing this with your 02 in mind. On either truck, I would still measure draw this way, to ensure all the modules have time to power down.

 

I will try testing amps with this metod and post the results. Thank you for the input.

 

This truck is going to drive me to drink - I just went out to perform test with windows open and key out and got much lower readings than earlier today ??!!

When door is open and int. lights on, I only read .35/.36. As soon as I shut the door and wait 20 or 30 seconds and the interior lights "fade" to off, the reading drops to .18 and thats where it sits right now. I did hook up jumper in parallel and waiting for 1/2 hour to pass. I just can't understand where 2 amp draw from a few hours ago went. I will post again in a little while.

 

If it is showing .18, start pulling fuses one at a time, you will see which fuse is pulling when it drops from .18
This worked with a used Blazer I bought. It would start everyday but if I let it sit for two days or more it was dead. I took a meter and checked my fuses to see which one was drawing power when it shouldn't have been. I found that the fuse that worked the interior light was draining the battery. If I pulled the fuse when it was parked for a few days the battery never died, somewhere there was a short. Since it was a very used vehicle I never tracked it down but that's how I found the problem.
Hope this helps, good luck.

 

Rocky, we have narrowed down to the IOD fuse - pulling this clears draw. Still can't isolate draw further.

Torquefan, went back out after 45 mins, still at .18/.19 and seatbelts were not locked. Then I started thinking (not good). Am I reading less of a draw then ths afternoon because of jumper wire? Some amperage flowing thru wire instead of meter? After I removed wire and meter I hooked meter back up so;o and was back to my 2.1 amps fron this afternoon. I never opened any door or put key into ignition.

Thanks all for your input.

 

Don't know if this will be of any help at all, but on my '05 I have a battery drain issue. Was traced down to being the instrument cluster having a short of some sort. Don't want to spend the near $800 that Dodge wants for a replacement, so I have just been pulling the fuse when the truck sits for more than a few hours....

 

Mishkaya - Is it the IOD fuse you pull?

 

Well you are now past my knowledge so any advice you follow from me is now at your own risk. Now you need to start tracking down each component that draws off that IOD (ignition off draw) fuse. It could be anything that should work with the key out. Interior light, glove box light, hood light, mirror controls, etc. etc. Something is staying on when it should be shutting off.

 

Fuse #51 (Instrument cluster, Radio, Underhood lamp)
I should add that although Dodge won't admit to it, there are a fair amount of us with '05 trucks that have the same issue. Many have noticed that the high beam indicator will sort of ghost occasionally, and it seems all of us with that particular problem have had the instrument cluster short issue.... Hope yours is different!

 

Years ago I had a bronco that would drain the batt. I was able to trace it to a internal short in the alternator. Alternator would be warm to the touch just sitting in the garage with nothing on. Might be something to look into on your truck

 

Yes, sorry if my explanation wasn't clear. The jumper wire is installed to maintain the circuit in case the ammeter shuts itself off over the half hour. You do need to remove it after you turn the ammeter back on and want to read it.

I also need to know what the year of your truck is. I wrote the part about the electric belts with your 02 truck in mind. If this is about the 06 truck in your sig, I am not sure if it has electric seat belt retractors.

 

It is an 06

 

Shouldnt the battery protection thing come into play? If I leave anything on my truck kills off everything after 15mins. There are specialty shops that can fix these issues for you. I know of a guy in MASS called A-1 battery. He can fix anyhting. I see your in New York. Maybe talk to a stereo shop. Sometimes they have an eletrical guru working there. Or find a limo builder. I know New York has a few. There eletrical guys can usually find any draw no matter how obscure.