13MWZ

Ok so I deleted the grid heater and removed the wiring and selinoid. I wasnt quite sure what to do with the 2 smaller wires that plug into the top posts of the relay since they come from a main wiring harness, so I coiled them up and tucked them behind the battery box.

I started my truck and instantly got a CEL, checked the code and it said intake heater grid. Am I suppose to splice those 2 wires together so the computer thinks it still sees it or did I do something else wrong? I did a quick search (I know I've seen the 'how to' about this before) but I'm already running late so thought I'd just ask. Hope to get an answer soon......I'm counting on yall!

billie

Why would you delete the grid heaters?

13MWZ

I live in Texas and dont need it, it's just sitting there getting in the way of air flow.

Anyway, I was able to find the thread I remembered reading and it said to put a 10watt resistor between the small wires. All I could find as a 10watt 10 ohm resistor. I put T-connectors on both wires and put the resistor between them.......didnt work, I still have the check engine light. NOW what am I doing wrong?

TreeFarm

It doesn't get below 60 in Texas?

billie

OK, just curious.

I don't know the intricacies of how the computer read the solenoid/heater circuit, but if equal resistance works, this is a method to figure it out. You'll need a half decent meter

Reconnect your solenoid and take an amp reading on its wires while energized. The voltage (14.4) divided by the amps you read will be the equivilent resistance to the coil inductance. Try that for the resistor size. To get your wattage rating for your resistor, square the amp reading and add 50%.

Just a thought if no one else can help.

Good luck

13MWZ

Ofcourse it does. That doesnt mean anything, these trucks will start in a lot colder than 60 without help from a grid heater or block heater.

82NDSNPR

grid heater is worthless in anything but the coldest spots if its to cold all you have to do is plug your truck in. i am in cali and just bought my delete unit from hellmann killer little billet unit.

Rpainter

plug the little wires back into the top of the solenoids. and then unplug the main wire from the battery and you will not have anymore cel.

dozer12216

Check the resistance of small wire connector of removed solenoid. I suspect it is something less than 30 ohms. Match that resistance with two resistors.Insert a resistor between the two small wires that hooked to each relay. The other option is remove the hot lead to each of orginal relays. No parts to buy, computer is happy and you are delerious with no CEL on.

TreeFarm

Grid heater is there for a reason. If you want rough running and little extra wear on your engine when starting in low temps, that's your business.

Topper

Has anyone ever done a dyno run before and after the g.h.d. I would be surprised if there is any real increase in power after the mod.
Topper

Rpainter

I got bored one weekend and reinstalled my heater in my truck and with my mods the egt's went up 200 and the turbo spooled a lot slower than when the spacer was in. the heater is now in the building on the shelf.

Topper

WOW! I guess I have some research to do!
Thanks,
Topper

billie

FWIW and future reference, the resistance of a solenoid coil may not match the actual equivelent of the coil inductance when powered up, although many times this will work OK. Depends on how sensitive the computer circuit is (many codes are quite voltage and/or current sensitive).
As stated, Removing the hot lead would be the easiest and pretty much guarantee accuracy.

Cya

13MWZ

Treefarm, your absolutly right. My truck, my choice, my buisness. If you dont like the idea of the mod then dont do it. I've heard of many folks who have done it (in colder climates) and havent had any problems. Almost ever piece of machinery I've operated or worked on with the same or similar engines has the "blank" grid heater on it. They start and run fine for the last 6 years I've been dealing with them. I'm not worried one bit, but thanks for your opinion. Duely noted.



Billie, I thought that too, but while I was playing around last night trying to figure it out I reinstalled the solenoid (minus the batt hot lead and grid heater lead) and reconnected the two smaller wires, I still got the code and check engine light. I have a Edge attitude with juice and used that each time to clear the code.

For some reason this morning when I left to run errands it didnt come on. After shutting down and restarting 5-6 times today it still hasne come back on. Hoping what ever gremlin was in there gave up and went home. As of now I still have the 10watt 10ohm resister in place. Seems to be doing the trick now, not sure why it didnt before.

Thanks for yall's replies and help.