Gird heater delete?
#1
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Gird heater delete?
Ok so I deleted the grid heater and removed the wiring and selinoid. I wasnt quite sure what to do with the 2 smaller wires that plug into the top posts of the relay since they come from a main wiring harness, so I coiled them up and tucked them behind the battery box.
I started my truck and instantly got a CEL, checked the code and it said intake heater grid. Am I suppose to splice those 2 wires together so the computer thinks it still sees it or did I do something else wrong? I did a quick search (I know I've seen the 'how to' about this before) but I'm already running late so thought I'd just ask. Hope to get an answer soon......I'm counting on yall!
I started my truck and instantly got a CEL, checked the code and it said intake heater grid. Am I suppose to splice those 2 wires together so the computer thinks it still sees it or did I do something else wrong? I did a quick search (I know I've seen the 'how to' about this before) but I'm already running late so thought I'd just ask. Hope to get an answer soon......I'm counting on yall!
#3
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I live in Texas and dont need it, it's just sitting there getting in the way of air flow.
Anyway, I was able to find the thread I remembered reading and it said to put a 10watt resistor between the small wires. All I could find as a 10watt 10 ohm resistor. I put T-connectors on both wires and put the resistor between them.......didnt work, I still have the check engine light. NOW what am I doing wrong?
Anyway, I was able to find the thread I remembered reading and it said to put a 10watt resistor between the small wires. All I could find as a 10watt 10 ohm resistor. I put T-connectors on both wires and put the resistor between them.......didnt work, I still have the check engine light. NOW what am I doing wrong?
#5
OK, just curious.
I don't know the intricacies of how the computer read the solenoid/heater circuit, but if equal resistance works, this is a method to figure it out. You'll need a half decent meter
Reconnect your solenoid and take an amp reading on its wires while energized. The voltage (14.4) divided by the amps you read will be the equivilent resistance to the coil inductance. Try that for the resistor size. To get your wattage rating for your resistor, square the amp reading and add 50%.
Just a thought if no one else can help.
Good luck
I don't know the intricacies of how the computer read the solenoid/heater circuit, but if equal resistance works, this is a method to figure it out. You'll need a half decent meter
Reconnect your solenoid and take an amp reading on its wires while energized. The voltage (14.4) divided by the amps you read will be the equivilent resistance to the coil inductance. Try that for the resistor size. To get your wattage rating for your resistor, square the amp reading and add 50%.
Just a thought if no one else can help.
Good luck
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#7
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grid heater is worthless in anything but the coldest spots if its to cold all you have to do is plug your truck in. i am in cali and just bought my delete unit from hellmann killer little billet unit.
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#8
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Ok so I deleted the grid heater and removed the wiring and selinoid. I wasnt quite sure what to do with the 2 smaller wires that plug into the top posts of the relay since they come from a main wiring harness, so I coiled them up and tucked them behind the battery box.
I started my truck and instantly got a CEL, checked the code and it said intake heater grid. Am I suppose to splice those 2 wires together so the computer thinks it still sees it or did I do something else wrong? I did a quick search (I know I've seen the 'how to' about this before) but I'm already running late so thought I'd just ask. Hope to get an answer soon......I'm counting on yall!
I started my truck and instantly got a CEL, checked the code and it said intake heater grid. Am I suppose to splice those 2 wires together so the computer thinks it still sees it or did I do something else wrong? I did a quick search (I know I've seen the 'how to' about this before) but I'm already running late so thought I'd just ask. Hope to get an answer soon......I'm counting on yall!
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Check the resistance of small wire connector of removed solenoid. I suspect it is something less than 30 ohms. Match that resistance with two resistors.Insert a resistor between the two small wires that hooked to each relay. The other option is remove the hot lead to each of orginal relays. No parts to buy, computer is happy and you are delerious with no CEL on.
#12
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I got bored one weekend and reinstalled my heater in my truck and with my mods the egt's went up 200 and the turbo spooled a lot slower than when the spacer was in. the heater is now in the building on the shelf.
#14
Check the resistance of small wire connector of removed solenoid. I suspect it is something less than 30 ohms. Match that resistance with two resistors.Insert a resistor between the two small wires that hooked to each relay. The other option is remove the hot lead to each of orginal relays. No parts to buy, computer is happy and you are delerious with no CEL on.
As stated, Removing the hot lead would be the easiest and pretty much guarantee accuracy.
Cya
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Treefarm, your absolutly right. My truck, my choice, my buisness. If you dont like the idea of the mod then dont do it. I've heard of many folks who have done it (in colder climates) and havent had any problems. Almost ever piece of machinery I've operated or worked on with the same or similar engines has the "blank" grid heater on it. They start and run fine for the last 6 years I've been dealing with them. I'm not worried one bit, but thanks for your opinion. Duely noted.
Billie, I thought that too, but while I was playing around last night trying to figure it out I reinstalled the solenoid (minus the batt hot lead and grid heater lead) and reconnected the two smaller wires, I still got the code and check engine light. I have a Edge attitude with juice and used that each time to clear the code.
For some reason this morning when I left to run errands it didnt come on. After shutting down and restarting 5-6 times today it still hasne come back on. Hoping what ever gremlin was in there gave up and went home. As of now I still have the 10watt 10ohm resister in place. Seems to be doing the trick now, not sure why it didnt before.
Thanks for yall's replies and help.
Billie, I thought that too, but while I was playing around last night trying to figure it out I reinstalled the solenoid (minus the batt hot lead and grid heater lead) and reconnected the two smaller wires, I still got the code and check engine light. I have a Edge attitude with juice and used that each time to clear the code.
For some reason this morning when I left to run errands it didnt come on. After shutting down and restarting 5-6 times today it still hasne come back on. Hoping what ever gremlin was in there gave up and went home. As of now I still have the 10watt 10ohm resister in place. Seems to be doing the trick now, not sure why it didnt before.
Thanks for yall's replies and help.