4x4 Wheelin with an Open Diff
 

I have a 2004 4x4 2500. After buying my truck I noticed that mine had an open differential (I just assumed that it was a 4x4 and had the Anti-Spin). Well, took it to the service manager and got a quote to install Anti-Spin differential at around $1400-1500. Looks like I'll just wait for lockers to come available.


So in the mean time, I'm looking for some advice/suggestions on how best to handle off road situation (largely navigating through mud) with and open diff. Hunting season is about to begin, and where I go there are some pretty tough terrain that we have to go through to get to our camping spot. Having an open diff I realize that if wheel slippage starts to occur, that I'm probably only going to have 1 wheel in the back, and 1 up front spinning.

So what advice would you give to ensure that 2 wheels are always spinning, when going through mud or crossing ruts?

I also suffer from that "assume" disease, and have gotten stuck to prove it.

I think the only solution is chains.

Some have said to put the parking break on 1 click,
or applying the brakes just a little while giving it some go pedal,
I haven't tried it myself, and found out about the trick after I'd already got stuck.
I can see how that would help if you had LS, but not if you don't.
Something about more torque at the wheel limits slipping?

Luckily, there are more than a couple options to get lockers in my axles,
I'm sure there will be more options for the Americans soon,
but probably not by hunting season.


phox

Phox, the power braking technique only works for LSD, as far as I know. I did email ARB about their air lockers about 2 months ago, and they replied back saying that they were just now sending their Australian R&D department an AA 11.5 axle. They said it would be 1 year at the soonest.

That's what I thought.

Sure am glad I'm riding on a couple Dana's. :D
Hoping to have my Detroit in the rear this winter, then start saving for the ARB for the front before spring.


phox

Re: 4x4 Wheelin with an Open Diff
 

keeping a compressor in the truck at all times is a must as well. letting the pressure out when you are in the thick of things isn't always an option, who wants to wade out when you are stuck in three feet of river and need to let out air. let it out b4 you get stuck, my 44's on my old gasser started to grab at 10 psi and yanked at around 8 psi. gotta watch speed with low pressure tho, hitting bumps hard can unseat the bead, thats why you always need to cary good starting fluid too and a few matches. best fastest way to seat a bead on a truck once you get it off the ground. few squirts of fluid a match and then quick with the compressor and you are back in business. if it is just short spurts of slippery snot then keep the pressur up and the pedal down let that 6k pound truck cary you through.

There are three things that absolutely have no business on a hard core off-roaders vehicle.

1. Open differentials.
2. Electrically actuated transfer cases.
3. CV joints.

The dealer is the last place on earth that I would have a differential swapped out. There is probably a specialty 4 x 4 shop that does this kind of work on a regular basis in your vicinity.

Why would power braking ONLY work on LS? If you have an LS diff you wouldnt need to power brake. Ganted its not a locker, but the fact that its called a "limited slip" refers to the mechanics involved. Power braking would help with all diff's as I understand it, and I personally have used the technique with an open diff. It works to a degree, but you have to have the power to spin the free wheel once you have applied enough brake to stop it. Thats where the cummins comes in!:D

I have the open diff too, and prefer it over a limited slip for black ice conditions. I too am waiting for a selectable locker, as a limited slip will still leave you stuck if a front and rear wheel get off of the ground. As others have said, with an open diff you need to pay more attention to tire selection, and should probably carry chains for bad conditions.

One of my brothers was able to talk to an Alaskan state trooper who was investigating winter accidents and type of vehicle. The trooper commented that although pickups didn't roll as often as SUVs, they often ended up bass ackwards. I said that a guess would be that's it's due to aggresive limited slips or unselectable lockers kicking in and causing the rear end to break loose, as they're typically light in the rear.

This methods works on AA with LS because they work different than a Dana or other. For the AA LS to engage either both wheels must be turning or they need some resistance like a brake. For example: if you got stuck in the mud in 2WD and then went to 4WD, you would be hard pressed to engage the LS because you couldn't get both wheels to spin. Or if you stopped with one tire on ice and the other on pavement, the same would happen. I just recommend to practice in a safe place to get used to.

I have the locking diff and still have issues.... This thing just seems to sink quick.
http://www.cyber3dnet.com/mud.jpg

I think the last thing that the cnc machine worked on before the skidplates for this truck was a boat anchor..... haven't sunk mine yet but it is hunting season and my club land is nothing but the slickest red clay that ever ate a truck!

Skid plates? You have skid plates? Where? Who made them? How much $$?? heheh

My truck is all banged up underneath. It's just a matter of time before I punch a hole in the diff, oil pan, transfer case, steering stabalizer, or something.

to my knowledge, skid plates did not come out on 2004 2500. I did notice that the 2005's have a transfer case skid plate now

part of the off road package, that red shocks and stickers.... if I wasn't buying off the lot I would not have ordered the package thats for sure. skid isn't much more than a transfer case protector.