Dr.Dizzle

The kit you are referring to has been superseded by part number 52122362AJ which replaces the: 52122362AE, 52122362AF, 52122362AG, 52122362AH and 52122362AI steering assemblies.

AllMoparParts has a complete kit which includes everything,including the parts your kit does not. That kit is part number (52122362AJ Complete).

bullrambler

1. The track bar bushings are the first place to start when one is experiencing the death wabbel. There is a good chance that you will not have to do an upgrade to a new track bar. At least I didn't.
2. If it continues then you can do the ball joints. Most times it's best to do both top and bottom, and with that you'll know that everything related to the ball joints is up to spec.
3. Then you can check your tires (or do this first). However if there is a problem with the tires it can be improper tire inflation, improper balancing, a dented rim, or a broken belt within the tire itself.
4. Another simple test would be to check the tie rod ends, cause you'll be under the truck anyways.
5. Another thing to check out is the steering stabilizer - which looks like a shock mounted sideways. FYI some of the new replacements are smaller in diameter then the OEM. They work fine.
All in all the problem(s) will likely be found in one or more of these components.
*6 The last thing could have to do with the steering box - but not likely.

Raspy

It really comes down to what initiates it and how it is stopped or prevented from getting out of hand. First off, the system has it's own oscillating frequency. When a shimmy in the wheels hit the right frequency, they can get far worse and become DW. That frequency is attainable by driving at the right speed and having tires that are out of balance. Remember, out of balance does not just cause tires to jump up and down, it causes them to turn right and left when the heavy spot is off center on the tire. Right and left imbalance is shimmy and shimmy elevates to DW.

When this process starts, the steering linkage, track bar, etc, must control it or it will get worse and worse during the event. Loose joints are part of the problem but so are weak links, like the thin flexible track bar. The tie rod ends and bushings can be fine, but the bar can flex and allow DW.

All this is why I say that there are things that cause it and things that prevent it from getting out of control. Tire imbalance is probably the biggest cause, but out of round and bent wheels are also bad. Those things initiate it. Weak or worn components allow it to progress to DW from a slight shimmy.

This is not a Dodge only problem! Old military power wagons, 1960s VW bugs, Mercedes sedans, etc, etc, all have the same problem. Bad tires set it off and weak parts allow it to build up.

Another cause is hitting a pot hole that throws the tire to one side violently and then it springs back and begins it's oscillation.

The first line of defense is the steering damper. It must be strong enough to prevent the oscillation of the heavy wheels an tires. Aftermarket tires and wheels weigh 80-90 lbs each.

It's not enough to "check" the joints in the system. They are known to be weak even if they are not worn. They have to be strong enough to control heavy tires. Looking at them is not a way to determine if they are strong enough, we know they are not strong enough.

Spin balance the tires to perfection and make sure they run true on their wheels! Stay with a reasonable size or plan on problems. Upgrade all front end parts to the strongest you can find.

I've never run tires on my Dodge bigger than 315s, I upgraded the linkage, replaced the track bar, installed high quality ball joints and adjusted the steering gear play out. I make sure the steering wheel is centered. I will not tolerate out of balance tires. And I have NEVER had DW.

The stock Dodge front end design in the 3rd gens is way to flexible and cannot properly control heavy tires. Some guys insist on running heavier front tires but refuse to take responsibility for exceeding the design limit of the system controlling those tires or refuse to insist on precisely balanced tires. The result is frustration over DW.

Sawyer1

Older ford 1/2 tons used to be famous for the death wobble if the caster was set too low. I know cause I had it happen on a 1975 pickup so i took it into the shop and checked the allignment and jacked the caste up to almost +9 degrees and that stopped it. I didn't replace any suspension parts or tires,just raised the caster setting. Sometimes the factory specs aren't always the answer in that respect. May be something to look at.

lucabrazzi

a new steering staibalizer fixed mine.

steelblitzkrieg

Just experienced it for the first time, have been getting hints of it for the past 10K. I'm at 119K. I'm due for tires, My RF tire is worn badly in the second row inside from the outside cleats. My trackbar bushings are screaming to be put out of their misery and my end links are bent (Have been for the last 45K+). My other tires are evenly worn so I may have a bad shock on the RF.

Anyways, I should be replacing tires within the month along with replacing trackbar bushings and installing adjustable heim endlinks. Shocks have life-time along with damper so I'll have those checked while she's racked.

I initially started my Caster set at 5 but I was getting a womp-womp-womp sound at about 70mph, we backed it down until I had good response and no womp sound, I believe we settled at 3.5 if I recall. That was 40K+ ago so I'm sure I'm off from that now.

I'll let you all know.

P.S. It was on a 2 lane levy road and I'm happy it was 6am on a weekend with no oncoming traffic and no one on my rear since I had to slam the brakes to slow her enough to stop it.

steelblitzkrieg

Track bar bushings shot, tie rod ends shot, tires shot, end links bent severely, Caster was at 1.8. I started at 2.7 46K ago.

Not sure which fixed it, but I replaced all and what a difference. I used Luke's track bar bushings, tuff country adjustable heim end links, extreme duty tie rod ends from Les Schwab, and put on new Toyo ATII's. I had MT's before.

Parts, tax, labor = $2309.00.

I'd say she is smoother and more responsive than new, but that was 120K and 9yrs ago so I could be mistaken. Those AT's are QUIET! The concrete breaks on highway 4 are much less punishing too.

Danderson

I sold my Toyo MT's @ 19K to a younger friend. Great tire. Just couldn't handle the noise. The AT2's are a good relatively quiet tire.
The one and only time I had DW was after a rotation and rebalance at a know nationwide tire shop. The kid smiled at me and said "have a nice day sir". DW'd on the freeway,returned the next day and tires were an average of 4oz off. Kid quit that day and set me up.

steelblitzkrieg

Kids hate the AT's. "They look whimpy". Lol.

fass92

Thank you that was good info I have seen trucks and have friends that have this problem that is definitely some good info

ddestruel

500,000 Ram pickups being bought back - News - Journal Star - Peoria, IL

500000 dodges to be bought back due to steering issues

steelblitzkrieg

The vehicles eligible for buyback are as follows:

2008–2012 Dodge/*Ram 1500 pickups (265,000 vehicles)
2008–2012 Dodge/Ram 45oo and 5500 heavy-duty pickups (35,942 vehicles)
2009–2011 Dodge Dakota
2009 Dodge Durango
2009 Chrysler Aspen

*Some sites list 1500, some just list Ram in general

Banshee600

I have a 2007.5 ram3500 6.7 dually 4x4 stock sixe tires mine has had the death wobble since i got it my dodge dealer acted like they never heard of such a prob. new adjustable track bar and streering box brace help. but now that the tires have wore some it doing it again. can;t keep tires on the front

ChargerLighting

Well I unexpectedly joined the death wobble club last week.
This happened in the '05 in my sig.
I have owned it for almost 2 years, since it had 108K & now has 143K.
I AM due for rear tires but the fronts are still in decent shape. These are the same tires that were on the truck when I bought it (all 4 were new when I bought it). & they are stock size.
I had all 4 ball joints replaced maybe 5000 miles ago with MOOG parts & both hub assemblies were also replaced then with Precision branded ones. Also had 1 u-joint at the right front wheel replaced.
When the wobble first happened last week, I parked the truck immediately. I assumed track bar bushings were the problem, so I changed those today...still had the death wobble happen on 2 separate occasions on my 5 mile ride home (glad I took the back roads).
In my frustration of not being able to find the right track bar bushings, I ordered a whole track bar. If that doesn't fix it, the truck is going BUH BYE.
I'm not driving something that can go from fine to unsafe just like that...combined with the other issues of the '03-'09 body style (BCMs, severed door wiring, etc.). Just sick of throwing money at this truck.

Danderson

The one time I got it was because of my tires being up to 4 ozs. off due to a disgruntled employee's last day. I returned for a rebalance and have never had it again.
It's normal to replace frontend components@ 138K on any vehicle.
What's a BCM?
Tires make a huge difference on these trucks especially BFG's which can induce dw.