I did a search and read the DIY sticky.

Got a new set of Nitto Terras put on yesterday and was told my rear brake pads are paper thin and my rotors are under spec. Front rotors are under spec, but the pads are fine, so I'll wait on those. So decision time. Pay for a rear brake job or DIY. Money says DIY.

Planning to use Autozone's Duralast rotors and semi-metalic pads, because I can get them today.

Questions: With 214K miles, what else should I be looking at? Would I be wise to change wheel bearings while I have it apart (another $75 or so)? How about calipers, if they work (they do) should I just stick with them, or are they about due anyway? It's going to be a big project, it's hot and humid, I don't have a lot of time, and I don't want to do this again for a long while.

Another short question: I figure I might as well change out my brake fluid while I'm at it. If I keep the reservior filled while bleeding the brakes (I want to avoid air in the abs pump), should I start at the shortest line or longest line, to make sure I get all the old stuff out and new in?

 

hmmm. Must not be holding my mouth right.

 

Oh well. I'm going to replace both rear calipers. The driver's side has a leaking piston and the pads are worn very thin. On the passenger side the pads look almost new and I had a heck of a time compressing one of the pistons to get the caliper off the rotor. I figure that's not good. So, with new rotors and calipers I should be good to go...or stop, as the case may be.

So, truck is still on the jackstands for a couple more days, until the parts come in.

 

did you gitter dun? looking at doing this myself on my 2500. was it hard? can't imagine it would be to much harder than drums.

 

its an easy job if your rotors are not rusted solid to the hub.

 

start with the longest brake line when you bleed them...t

 

I did the same.....easy job......just make sure you bleed the excess brake fluid and do not push the old fluid back up to the reservoir. Also, make sure they give you the correct rotor for a Dullly or SWR, depending on what you have.....they are different. They gave me one correct one and one wrong one.......caused me a bit of frustration and an additional day. They also gave me the wrong pads the first time around ( one more day).

 

Yep. Got 'er done. It was physically tough, but not technically tough (it was the hottest week on record here in VA). It's a messy job the first time. I got much better on the second wheel. Pay attention to the hints on the DIY about handling the diff oil while removing the hubs. I went with Autozone OEM rotors and their semi-metallic "Gold" pads. I just finished a 5000 mile trip towing a 5000# trailer and was very pleased with my brake performance.

By the way, the Autozone rotors were only about $10 less than the Mopar parts, so I figure they are probably comparable in quality.

What is the difference between the 3500 and 2500 rear rotors? I just took what they gave me at Autozone. They looked the same as what I took off and they worked right, so I suppose they were right.

 

I have a question about this job. Did the axles come right out or is there a C clip holding them in.

Also, what holds the rotor to the hub?

 

No c-clip. They come right out. You need to go to the referenced "how-to" and read it over a couple times before you give it a try. Like I said before, pay special attention to the oil containment hints or it will be a mess.