while the tranny pan is down..
11-08-2011, 09:13 PM
#1
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while the tranny pan is down..
coming up to 50k on the ticker and going to put new filters in and refill with fresh fluid.
while the pan is out what should i look into at the same time? i was reading something about the bands?
thanks
while the pan is out what should i look into at the same time? i was reading something about the bands?
thanks
11-09-2011, 10:15 AM
#4
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Solenoid and sensor for sure. Adjust bands. And it's an awesome time to put in a Transgo kit or a new valve body.
The VB will make your trans shift better and last longer. It costs some money though, but kind of the pay me now or pay me later thing....
The VB will make your trans shift better and last longer. It costs some money though, but kind of the pay me now or pay me later thing....
11-09-2011, 10:37 AM
#5
170,600 miles and never have touched my bands. Every 30-40K I drop the pan, change the filter and replenish the drained fluid. Shifts/operates like the day I bought it 6+ years ago. Towed 20K combined with the Smarty Jr on the 40 hp tune close to 2000 miles a couple of months ago also.
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11-09-2011, 07:32 PM
#9
Disturbing the fluid is a good way to make the gov solenoid stop working and foul up the pressure transducer readings. Then you have to drop the pan and do it all over again. Be proactive, change them when it is easy.
11-09-2011, 07:42 PM
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Cuz it will be broke and usually at a very inopportune time. There is a reason Dodge reccommends checking band adjustment every 30k, the stupid bands wear FAST when they get loose. It is not a matter of IF it is a matter of when.
Disturbing the fluid is a good way to make the gov solenoid stop working and foul up the pressure transducer readings. Then you have to drop the pan and do it all over again. Be proactive, change them when it is easy.
Disturbing the fluid is a good way to make the gov solenoid stop working and foul up the pressure transducer readings. Then you have to drop the pan and do it all over again. Be proactive, change them when it is easy.
11-09-2011, 09:23 PM
#12
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Well slap my azz and call me Sally....
They wear FASTER when they are loose? I adjusted the front one a little loose, figuring it wears itself loose, I didn't want to over tighten it....
Hmmm... Well I only left the bolt 1/8 of a turn looser than spec. Probably didn't make any difference at all...
They wear FASTER when they are loose? I adjusted the front one a little loose, figuring it wears itself loose, I didn't want to over tighten it....
Hmmm... Well I only left the bolt 1/8 of a turn looser than spec. Probably didn't make any difference at all...
11-10-2011, 08:57 AM
#13
Well, maybe a little ****. It doesn't hurt but it is excessive, about 30k with normal use. 20k if your towing heavy all the time.
LOL, that funny Haven't heard that expression in a while. 
Hard to tell. The external adjustment is not the best nor very accurate. A better way is measure the distance between the actuator rod in the front servo and apply lever tip.
The 1-2 shift is intermediate band apply on a spinning drum. If the adjustment is too loose it slips more thna is desirable until it engages. Too tight and it is dragging all the time.
The 2-3 shift is intermediate band release and direct clutch apply.
Band too loose and it release before the direct clutches apply and you cutaway and direct clutch slip on the shift. Band too tight and you get a bind up shift as the direct clutches apply and try to overide the planetary.
Timing of BOTH actions is VERY critical to operation and wear.
Thats is why the flex band is such a POS in a high TQ heavy load scenario. No matter what you do it is a wear item beacause there is no way to make it perfect all the time. A rigid band with more wear material is a better solution as is good clutches, good shift timing, and higher apply pressures.
It doesn't hurt but it is excessive, about 30k with normal use. 20k if your towing heavy all the time.Hard to tell. The external adjustment is not the best nor very accurate. A better way is measure the distance between the actuator rod in the front servo and apply lever tip.
The 1-2 shift is intermediate band apply on a spinning drum. If the adjustment is too loose it slips more thna is desirable until it engages. Too tight and it is dragging all the time.
The 2-3 shift is intermediate band release and direct clutch apply.
Band too loose and it release before the direct clutches apply and you cutaway and direct clutch slip on the shift. Band too tight and you get a bind up shift as the direct clutches apply and try to overide the planetary.
Timing of BOTH actions is VERY critical to operation and wear.
Thats is why the flex band is such a POS in a high TQ heavy load scenario. No matter what you do it is a wear item beacause there is no way to make it perfect all the time. A rigid band with more wear material is a better solution as is good clutches, good shift timing, and higher apply pressures.
11-10-2011, 07:30 PM
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Any chance there's a kit with the filters and gasket with Solenoid and such?
I am looking at the Transgo kit now. May have a local trans shop do it... eh.
I am looking at the Transgo kit now. May have a local trans shop do it... eh.
11-10-2011, 08:20 PM
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Cuz it will be broke and usually at a very inopportune time. There is a reason Dodge reccommends checking band adjustment every 30k, the stupid bands wear FAST when they get loose. It is not a matter of IF it is a matter of when.
Disturbing the fluid is a good way to make the gov solenoid stop working and foul up the pressure transducer readings. Then you have to drop the pan and do it all over again. Be proactive, change them when it is easy.
Disturbing the fluid is a good way to make the gov solenoid stop working and foul up the pressure transducer readings. Then you have to drop the pan and do it all over again. Be proactive, change them when it is easy.