sojoe

Great thread-very educational
Thanks

flat_lander

I found last night, it is difficult to put the new OD spring plate on the new OD sun gear and get it down far enough so that you can put the snap ring in. I finally gave up pushing, and banging and put it in the press and pressed it on. Good, bad or indifferent, that is what I had to do to make it fit and seat down to mating surface. Maybe that will save someone else some headaches in the future.

bill50cal

it should have been a slip fit with MAYBE a few LIGHT taps. sounds like it was miss machined. you might want to look at it again. it will not hurt to reuse the old one unless the old bearing failed and tore it up. as to your bushing question's sun gear ( both ) are not high wear items nor is the stator shaft. the only one I usually change is the pump ( converter ) bushing. again how or who is going to put the OD section back together??? you MUST have the special tool's or make them. one trick when you get EVERYTHING back together in the OD housing is to check the OD clutch clearance. an easy way is to put the piston, selective shim and bearing on top as it would be in the trans. and see how much clearance you have between the piston and OD clutch plates.as I also stated DO NOT reuse the waved snap ring in the front ( direct ) clutch pack it MUST be a flat ring or it WILL fail and rule of thumb is .010 clearance per friction in the pack also look at that rooster comb as I told you earlier.
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flat_lander

I think the bad machining must have been on the sun gear itself. I tried the new plate on the old sun gear, and it fit. The old plate would not fit on the new sun gear. It is on now, but I doubt I'd be able to get it apart....certainly not without the same persuasion to get it on.

I'm putting it back together myself. I decided to go for the lifetime warranty. I made a home-made tool to put in a press to get the BIG spring in and out. Looks like I'll be doing just the pump bushing and call it good. I haven't had a chance to look at the rooster comb yet. I put the valve body together last weekend and covered it up to keep it clean. I'll probably wait till I get closer to complete until I pull it out.

I went to buy the super servo cover where I've purchased all my other parts, but they do not stock it. They said they've never been asked for one. Is the sealing pressure mainly on the lower end of the piston? If it isn't necessary, I won't get it, but it would seem to me that to get a better seal, the cover with an o-ring on the inside would help seal a lot better vs stocker.

bill50cal

it is third gear oil between the cover and the servo ( direct clutch apply and servo release ) I have never had an issue with leakage there but some think it can be so IMHO it is a fix looking for a problem. as to the OD sun gear you might want to talk to the suppler about the issue.

flat_lander

I put it all back together last night and tried putting playdough on top of the top steel, and then pressed the piston down on to the bearing to measure as someone somewhere had recommended. It was ~.24. Somewhere I read that .25 is what it comes from factory as frequently, but it is recommended to snug that up a bit. Should I get a new thinner selective shim to get that down in the .15 neighborhood?

bill50cal

I like to to see .090 - .125 between the OD piston and OD steel but more wont hurt it as the sprag holds till the OD clutch takes over. .250 sounds excessive and could let the piston come out till the seals come out of the retainer NOT GOOD. another trick is to use a drill index in 32nds as gauges.

flat_lander

The other thing that was confusing was the manual appears to reference a thicker top plate. However, I did not have one. I just had the last steel on top. Looking online, the pictures I found appear to be a regular steel on top, not a thick plate. Is this one of those cases where the manual is for too many models of transmissions?

bill50cal

you should have a thicker steel plate but it will be the first one you put in the housing. the stack up in the OD housing will be, flat snap ring, waved ring, thick steel than your frictions and steels. did you get my PM?? if so don't be bashful. call me and I would be more than happy to help you out.

flat_lander

I may have to take you up on that. I'd love to have it all back together by next weekend. Looks like we will be having a local weekend race with dyno. I've never been on one, and $40 for 3 pulls looks to be a good deal. I'm making my final parts run tonight....I hope.

flat_lander

Well, I have a nice long 3 day weekend. I'm starting to see the light at the end of the tunnel, and working my way forward in the case, and then discover the trans shop sold me the wrong low/reverse servo, a light duty band that looks thinner than the wore out one I took out, and the wrong thrust washer kit. I've only found 2 washers that actually fit my trans. None of the planetary thrust washers fit. On top of that, the bushing for the front pump is not the dimply type. Should I keep my old dimpled bushing, or replace it with a new smooth one? Man I hope they are open Monday so I can go in and give them *#&#.

flat_lander

I think I have some of the confusion cleared up. Supposedly they didn't know I was driving a diesel. So they sold me the stuff for a gasser. However, the thrust washers do not come in a kit yet, so I had to buy them individually. I also returned my bearing kit when I discovered they do sell the dimply bearing individually, but it is not included in the kit. So I will be back to re-assembly tonight. The good thing is I got back $100!

flat_lander

Ok. Well, I have it all back together and was pleased to find it went in the appropriate direction when the shifter was changed. LOL.

I do have a couple questions now.

1. I can noticeably hear what I am assuming is the rear band engaging trying to slow the rear drum. Does this mean I have the band too loose, or too tight? It seems to take a while, so I'm guessing loose?

2. It seems to take a while to get pressure flowing. When I first start it up, and drop it in gear I get the clunk right away, but I'm not getting to go. Same for when I put it into drive, it seems to take a while to get it to switch. I'm guessing one of the valves in the valve body isn't moving quick enough but not sure which one?

3. Not sure if it's related to the above, but occasionally when leaving in first, I especially noticed it when turning a corner, I then press on the gas and it seems to get into the power and start to go...and then all of a sudden it seems to appear to spin faster, but not go. Almost like it's slipping. But with an extra clutch in each of the front and direct clutch + the shift kit, I can't see that it is actually truly slipping the clutches. And I'm not flooring it, jut normal acceleration.

I'm sure all of the above questions are newbie, but since I am that's why I'm asking them. Naturally a seasoned pro would have all the adjustments set correctly right out of the gate. Hopefully my next one will be better.

flat_lander

I found I was guessing correctly. I double checked both bands and found the rear band was very loose. I must have forgotten to tighten it down after I took the case apart 4 times chasing little stuff that would drop out when trying to install. It is much happier, and really grabs the gears now.

tbarbee1

This has been an awesome thread I enjoyed it. Knowing what you know now would you do it again or just have Dave send you one?