That is correct, the Red Eagles grad hard but suffer for long term wear becuase of it. The Raybestos blues ar the compromise between the soft OE's and grabby Reds. They handle heat a lot better.

How much the TC can handle is not really a factor of towing weight, its more a factor of the power your trying to run thru it. If they can'tbuild a single disk to hold 900 ft\lbs TQ look elsewhere.

 

Well, now I'm having second thoughts. I finally broke down and called a couple local shops that will rebuild and install w/a billet TC for ~$2000 out the door + tax. I've priced all the stuff I will need separate and it's about the same price, so I'm not really seeing any savings. Granted, they will be using less expensive BW/Raybestos EOM style clutches, but it sounds like I will probably like those better anyway. ARGH! And I had just cleaned out my bay so I could work in a clean space.

If I take the easy route, I'll have to find some other outlet for all this positive energy I've been feeding myself....."I think I can, I think I can, I think I can...." Maybe I'll have to paint my little engine blue. LOL

 

If want need a good torque converter or other help talk to Dave Goerend http://www.goerend.com/

 

I actually stopped in his shop last fall when I first started looking for solutions to my leak. I grew up not far from there, and found it funny that one of the premier rebuild facilities is in the middle of no-wheres-ville IA. I didn't even have cell service once I was down the in St. Lucas "valley". I just wish I had the $$$ to go that route.

 

Minor change of plans. I did finally confirm I have a cracked OD housing as suspected. I put the rear axle on jack stands and had my wife run it up to about 65. Now I would NOT recommend this if you have recently forgotten an anniversary, birthday, mother's day, etc....ESPECIALLY if you have your insurance policy paid up with double indemnity for accidental death. But I needed to see it under pressure, and sure enough once under pressure, I could see it coming out of a hair-line crack. The driveshaft also had a good bit of visible vibration.

So I have ordered a replacement O/D case and a new 1 piece driveshaft. I am going to try and cheat by taking only the OD casing off, swap the guts and put it back on. I'll also be doing a TC, valve body job, and upgrade solenoid/servos that I can get at easily and see how much time I can buy. I think this way will get me the most bang for my buck right now.

 

goerend has single disks t/c. + with them you can trade up to triple later on with just difference in cost. i would do a goerend triple for a 1050$ and be done with it. call'em

 

The store where I ordered the over drive housing just notified me that they no longer have them in stock, and it is on national back order. Apparently a local transmission shop came in the morning after I called and bought all of the remaining units. They have special ordered me one, but who knows how long that will take.

My question is, what would be the best way to try and repair my crack to see if I can continue to drive it until I get my parts. I'm afraid JB Weld will be too rigid with all the vibrations...not to mention it will be difficult to get it clean enough to make a good bond. Would a type of RTV sealant work? OR....? Surely someone else has had to do this for a temporary fix.

 

Well, I decided to just go for it. I pulled the drive shaft, and none of the u-joints appear to be shot. I suspect the case just gave up after years of poor driveline. I took the t-case and O/D housing down as 1 unit and then the transmission separately. I busted 1 of the cooler fitting bolts off in the case. I can't believe how tight that was. Even after I got it out, it took a big crescent and a large cheater on a open end wrench to get it apart. I'm hoping that isn't too bad of a fix. I'm thinking I may go back to plan A and rebuild while it's out. I certainly don't want to have to do this again in 2-3 years.

 

Dave only charges $3550.00 for a rebuilt trans and torque converter.

 

$3750 for the 48RE. I'm not sure I can swing the extra $1800 for the labor. However, I am looking at getting the triple disk and full rebuild kit from them. Their kit has a lot of the other stuff that is needed that is not included in most of the other master kits I've looked at. Like full bushing kit, bearing kit, new sun gear, thrust washer kit, snap rings, and spring.

Tonight, I'm going to have to look at my busted brass cooler line fitting that is now stuck in the case to see how to get it out. Not sure if an easy out will work or what?

 

I would also use some heat on it along with the easy out. if it was the rear fitting be VERY careful installing the new one as you can crack the case by over tightening it. when you start to assemble the clutch packs the front drum would have had a wavy snap ring at the top, it is a known failure and his kit probably has a flat selective set of ring's. you will want to build the complete trans and install it than the transfer case instead of the OD and transfer case as one.

 

It was the forward fitting, but I'll try heat as well. Thanks for the tip. I think I may start tearing down the trans, and then see what needs replaced.

I just stumbled across a local transmission parts house that seems really knowledgeable and has pretty decent prices. A deluxe rebuild kit with gaskets, rings, seals, band, strut, washers, bushings clutches and steels for $300. I can throw a lot of extra parts and still be under what is pre-built elsewhere.

In your experience, is there a difference between Borg Warner and Raybestos for clutches? That may be the only draw back. They order from whoever has the better price at the time, so the clutches could be either. I seem to see Raybestos thrown around more than BW as the preferred brand.

 

there is very little difference in there standard plates but ray also has some performance plates like the blue and Z pack and more $$$ you can also look here at some stuff as they supply most of the big names with billet parts.
http://www.tcsproducts.com/products.html?cat=13
you might want to get the 4.2 kick down lever and accumulator piston. you will also want the bearing kit from wherever you get the parts and some selective snap rings for the front clutch so you can set up the clearance in that clutch pack. also PM sent.

 

The Raybestos High Energy handle heat better than the Borgs according to some. The Blues will get you to a firmer shift but not quite as aggresive as the Red Eagles.

You already have a 4.0 lever in a 48RE but you NEED billet front and rear servos, billet accumulator, and the billet band strut and anchor. Might as well throw in a rigid front band while your at it.

 

I have never seen a 4.0 just 3.8-4.2 and 5.0. I was never fond of the 5.0 as it is much harder to get the overlap out on the 2-3 shift. I would also agree on the billet accumulator piston and strut and to some degree the rear servo as some have been known to **** in the bore but the front is not a must have IMHO same on the ridged band. I have a high energy flex band in a 10.0 dart that will leave with the front wheels in the air and pull 2nd without ever a hint of band failure in over 400 hits. same on std clutch plates. that is also why I posted that link for billet parts.