High trans temps 200*
#1
High trans temps 200*
I searched the posts for any reasons and mods for my trans temp running hot (around 200*) just normal driving. Pulling a 10K # trailer runs like 215-225*
Heres what Ive done so far:
727 DD pan
Adjust bands
Removed check ball and restricting washer under it. Also tried to remove the in cooler thermostat and cant get it out (possibly restricting flow and or not opening)
Planning today to remove stock trans cooler and put on a B&M trans cooler (Universal SuperCooler rated at 29,200 BTU)
About my rig:
2004 Ram 2500 TD 89,000 miles
Banks Iq six gun
I have no new ideas so Im open for suggestions.
Thanks for any suggestions you may have.
Heres what Ive done so far:
727 DD pan
Adjust bands
Removed check ball and restricting washer under it. Also tried to remove the in cooler thermostat and cant get it out (possibly restricting flow and or not opening)
Planning today to remove stock trans cooler and put on a B&M trans cooler (Universal SuperCooler rated at 29,200 BTU)
About my rig:
2004 Ram 2500 TD 89,000 miles
Banks Iq six gun
I have no new ideas so Im open for suggestions.
Thanks for any suggestions you may have.
#2
Registered User
If you are in stop light to stop light or any driving under 60mph, then the tranny temp will be high until the torque convertor locks. Are these temps on the high way with the torque convertor locked? Are you in Drive or OD?
#5
The Banks IQ. I believe, but not sure reads from in the pan under the governor sensor. Banks plugs into diag. port under steering column. so its reading from the factory location.
#6
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Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Colorado Springs, CO
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The first thing to suspect is the sender. Hit the pan with an IR thermometer. It's not incredibly accurate, but it will be pretty close.
With the engine running, check the temp of the cooler lines. That will tell you if there's a blockage.
With the engine running, check the temp of the cooler lines. That will tell you if there's a blockage.
#7
The first thing to suspect is the sender. Hit the pan with an IR thermometer. It's not incredibly accurate, but it will be pretty close.
With the engine running, check the temp of the cooler lines. That will tell you if there's a blockage.
Thats a good idea I will do that. And post results Thanks
With the engine running, check the temp of the cooler lines. That will tell you if there's a blockage.
Thats a good idea I will do that. And post results Thanks
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#9
I put on a B&M axillary cooler mounted under the bed. My temps dropped to 180-185 and that's without the fan on it. I should be able to drop my temps to 170 easily now.
The biggest waste of cash was putting on the Mag-Hye Tech DD pan, didnt do anything except cost me $20 more in fluid. My 2 cents...dont waste your money unless you are doing it for the looks.
The biggest waste of cash was putting on the Mag-Hye Tech DD pan, didnt do anything except cost me $20 more in fluid. My 2 cents...dont waste your money unless you are doing it for the looks.
#10
Def weird your temps were that high running unloaded. It was 102°F here in MD on Fri (Heat index was 116°F). Driving home from work doing about 60mph my temps were right around 160°F. Hitting the stop lights in the two towns I have to go through it would go up to around 180-190°F and then drop right back down when moving again. I am reading from the out line.
#11
WYLE-you might consider the mystery switch -it will help eliminate the TC friction/heat build-up when unlocked. I can only say(2004 -48RE) that it made a BIG difference for me when towing . Just takes some getting used to as far as when to lock and unlock. Just my .02
#12
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Location: Stratford Ont. Canada
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I find in the hot summer time when sitting at a stoplight shifting to nuetral keeps the temp a lot cooler. The torque converter doesnt build up as much heat then.....
#13
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This may be true, but frequent shifting in and out of neutral will accelerate wear. I'm pretty sure this is not a good practice.
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