zeeew

Hello all

1996 Cummins fuel only shows about 1/4 tank when full, can I check guage by grounding sending unit connection at tank without hurting the guage? Or, how many ohms am I looking for at sending unit?

Thanks

Eric

1-5-3-6-2-4

Yes ground the wire should sweep the guage needle full sweep. That verify good guage. If not full clean sweep motion, guage is no good.

Then pull the sender. I bet the float is deteriorated and saturated. Replace float and switch 2 screws, 2 blade connections. Done.

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whiskers

The most common problem with these is the arm that the sender pivots on wears and gets sloppy or sticks. It can be repaired. A new sender means a whole in tank unit which is $$$$$$$

1-5-3-6-2-4

Nope its available separate. Level switch and float are availiable as dealer only part. For a fraction of the cost of a whole sending unit. I've replaced a couple of them before already.


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infidel

Float and sender is $55 from the dealer.
Many parts guys will try to tell you that you have to buy the entire $300+ module.
Not true.

1-5-3-6-2-4

this is what you need. pics from the last one I did.

Lil Dog

Cool. Thanks for posting the part numbers!

zeeew

Thanks for the replies all, 'specially the part numbers.
Easiest to pull bed, or tank, to get to float?

Eric

1-5-3-6-2-4

Tilt the bed.


Pull driverside bolts. Loosen pass side. Disco that one wiring harness. Tilt bed to side and Block up bed high enough to get sender out.


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zeeew

Above tips worked great. Disconnect driver side rear light connector, cut any zipties if needed, push out frame connectors that hold wiring to frame, and in my case remove bolted ground wire from harness to frame. Takes around an hour to disconnect wires, remove or loosen bolts, tilt bed, check connection, and put back together until part arrives so you can do it again.

On my 1996 I did this:

Remove 3 screws from fuel filler neck with a #20 torx.

Using a 15mm socket, remove the 4 driver side bed bolts and loosen the 4 passenger side bolts. Back them out pretty far, until they are almost out.
I used an air impact, because I had one. Otherwise may need a breaker bar
to loosen before you can turn them with a ratchet.
(the front 2 bolts on both sides are easy to get to. The back 2 have holes in the bottom frame that allow a socket with an extension to reach the bolts. My truck had a custom hitch that needed to be removed to reach the bed bolts, plus exhaust on passenger side, increasing the time needed for the job by a couple hours)
Thats it, bed should be able to be lifted on driver side enough to get to connector and bypass float level sensor to see if you may need a new one.
When the new sensor gets here I will add more pics and hints as I install the sensor. For the sending unit I will be using part #4797738, about 60.00 with shipping from Moparpart.com.

Pics are on my particular 1996; your wiring/connector position or color codes may be different!
To remove connector from tank, push orange tab in (toward hoses when on tank). Then push down on white tab, and connector should come off.
Using a piece of wire I just jumped the connector socket from the dark blue wire to the black wire; this will ground the guage power wire and should show
"full" on the fuel guage. On my 1996 key needs to be on.

whiskers

Well , my guy tried to rip me off i guess. Good to have the part numbers for next time. But fixing the arm myself still saved 55 bucks. But my float was still ok. If it goes bad I'll go this route next time. Thanks!

Lil Dog

Zeew.. Picture is worth a 1000 words.. Thanks for the post!