Slow current draw on 1998 Dodge Diesel draining batteries
 

I am hoping someone here can help - I have a 1998 Dodge Ram 2500 Quad Cab 2WD with the 24v Cummins and Auto trans. I bought it used, very well taken care of, with 42,000 miles original. Ever since I have had it, (2 years), the batteries would go dead in a couple of days of sitting. I have to pull battery cables whenever I park it. Upon checking current draw at battery, I have a constant approx 500 ma drain at battery, and the draw goes away when I pull the "50 amp battery" fuse from the power center under the hood. This is the fuse right next to the "140 amp alternator" fuse. I pulled the fuses from the fuse block inside the cab, it there was no change in the current draw, so I think I can eliminate something in the cab.

Does anyone know what is connected to the "50 amp battery" fuse circuit under the hood, and if there are any known problems with electrical equipment connected to this circuit?

Does anybody have any electrical diagrams for this circuit? I have a number of factory and Cummins books, as well as library "Haynes" type books, but no electrical diagrams for the "power center" circuit under the hood.

Thank You in advance for any help,

Jeff

If no one can help you (or even if someone can) order the factory service manual for $30 here http://www.genosgarage.com/prodinfo....mber=DFSM98_CD

I had a similar problem it was the box under center seat that controls the seatbelts. You can check by un plugging it under the driver seat and see if that eliminates the current draw.

Jede

The computer draws current all the time. Find the IOD (ignition off draw) fuse and remove it, or better yet, put a switch in line to kill it.

Electric problem mostly solved!!!!
 

linetrash75 above nailed it! Thank You! However, I now have a slightly different problem - the seat belts are locked up, (fully retracted) and won't release. The seatbelt warning light is lit on the dash.

Here is what I did:

1) My original current draw was about 460 ma. I found the big plug under the driver seat, about 10 wires, but did not unplug it (I had trouble pulling it apart). So I looked under the middle front seat, and found a 4 wire plug that kind of looked like it went to a black box attached to the underside of the middle seat. I unplugged the 4 wire plug, and my current draw dropped to about 250 ma.

2) Next, I found another 4 wire plug under the front middle seat, also appearing to go to the black box, unplugged it, and the current draw dropped to about 4 ma, which I attribute to my electric trailer brake, which always has power to it.

So problem appears to at least be located!

I took truck for test drive, and the seat belts will not not move. (they are fully retracted). I cannot pull out the belts to put them on. They are retracted all the way.

My question: Aside from plugging the 2 - 4 wire plugs back in, is the correct plug to open the approx 10 wire big plug inder the driver seat, and plug the 2 - 4 wire plugs back in? I also did not unplug the big 10 wire plug because I was kind of guessing it supplied power to the electric driver seat adjustment controls.

How did linetrash75 do it?

Thank You,

Jeff

IBEW Local 18 new LADWP Electric Station Operator as of 2 months ago!

I use to be a mechanic and one of my specialties was electrical. Before you start unplugging things, it would be better to find what circuits your draw is on. To do this all you need to do is disconnect the positive or negative side of the battery and put a meter or test light between the terminals, then you start popping fuses, one at a time on each circuit and check your draw. after you know what circuit your draw(s) are on then you can disconnect each individual item on that circuit until you find the problem. A wiring schematic helps to identify everything on a circuit.
Good luck