I took my truck into the dealer this morning for maintenance and to have the brakes checked. I just bought a 5er and want to make sure things are in good shape when I go to pick it up.

The guy at the shop calls me this afternoon to tell me that the fronts definitely needed changing (I thought so) but the rears looked brand new - but with another problem. He told me that my axle seals had blown and got oil all over the "new looking" brakes and that to repair everything (Front Brakes, Rear Brakes, axle seals and oil change) would be around $720.

I was a little preturbed (to say the least) about the rear brakes, but told him to do it anyway. Then I started to think about things:

If the rear brakes are relatively new - yet soaked with oil - wouldn't they still do the job once the oil residue had worn off? So I called the guy back and told him to just replace the fronts, the axle seals, and change the oil.

THE QUESTION IS:

Should I have had the rear brakes changed out?

Thanks for your help!!

 

You will want the Napa Chev cylinders on there, and the dealership knows nothing about this, and would not do it anyway. Cylinders & rear pads are not the expensive part, so finish the job and be happy. IMO

 

Good news/bad news. Bad news is yes, change the shoes. You'll never get the oil out and they will grab/slip. But the good new is - change to the larger rear wheel cylinders now, put new shoes on, adjust and it'll stop better than ever and even save wear on your front pads. $10-15 a piece for the wheel cylinders and $60 for shoes and your in business.

Paul

 

Thanks guys. I'll just go ahead and do it.

Any idea where to pick up these $10 -$15 (larger) wheel cylinders? Will the dealer have them?

 

The local Napa from what i have read on these parts and they are off of a chevy so the dealer won't have them unless you go to a chevy dealer

 

Get the cylinders from Napa, #4637337
You can even order online by clicking here

The cheapest rear shoes you can find are best.

 

Local Napa Store has them in stock

On my way. Thanks Infidel!!

 

For looking for parts to do the whole job yourself, contact Sam at Olympic Brake to get pads & caliper rebuild kits. Sam says the same on rear brake shoes, go cheap.

I learned that Sam retired from the brake shop. Time to search out a new guru....

 

Check the fluid level in the rear end when you get it back. You want it no higher than 3/8" below the fill hole. 1/2" - 3/8" is OK. Extra usually winds up on the brakes.

 

Both of our dana 80's have blown passinger axel seals. My dad's has done it twice. You can clean the pads with trichloriethaline if you can get your hands on it. No dont ask for it at a store its illeagle to make now im sure just like everything that works well. I dont know if break cleaner will do it or not. I know how you feel though. I hate it when I try to do one thing and it becomes a costly mess.

 

Depends on how bad they are covered with oil. If soaked bad, or otherwise covered in gunk, replace them.

I had a little bit on mine. Not much. Hit them with brake cleaner, let them dry, then hit them with some sandpaper. Been going on almost 3 years. No problems. Still working great.

 

Went to NAPA today, as yesterday got polluted with other things to do. The guy I talked to on the phone was not working. When I requested the cylinders the other guy told me that it would be 3 days before getting them in. Can they be that hot of an item, or did the first guy just assume they were in inventory?

This is really turning into a test of patience. I think I'm just going to let the dealer finish with the axle seal and front brakes, and get the thing home to check the fluid level in the rear end. Then I can take off the rear wheels to check the condition of the rear brakes for myself.

A project that I originally did not have time for has just turned into a project that I now have to make time for. Oh well, as the old saying goes...."If you want a job done right..."

Thanks guys. I appreciate everyones input and will be posting a follow up when I get the truck back from the dealer. Suspicion tells me that things are probably not as bad as the dealer made them out to be, but I won't know for sure until can check it myself.

RamBob

 

If you catch the leaking seal soon enough you can clean the shoes with brake clean and after drying, sand them clean. If oil reappears just replace them. Make sure you check the diff vent. When it plugs up it will pressureize the diff and blow the oil out the seals. I have encountered this a lot on older vehicles. If your diff oil looks brown or funky, you should change it.

 

My Napa guys always say, "the computer says I have X in stock, let me go check first."
Maybe they know not to trust the computer and yours don't. From now on ask them to go physically check if a part is really there.
My local Napa doesn't ever have these cylinders in stock but they come in the next day if you ask for them.

 

Ha!! You don't live in Pahrump!! We got a thing here called "Pahrump Time". For example: If you want to get an estimate from a landscaper, you'd better call 3 because only one is going to show up. The other 2 are on Pahrump Time.

When the Dodge dealership told me my truck was going to be done today, I knew they meant TOMORROW!!

I'll get the cylinders after I get my truck back. Of course, that will be after I check to see if my axle seals really got replaced, and after I check the diff fluid level to make sure it hasn't been overfilled, and after I check my existing rear brakes to make sure they were really so "covered in oil" that they needed to be replaced!!

Thank you for your valuable information, though. I truly appreciate it!!

I have anoter question for you (will be posting on another thread also):

I am looking to get some performance mods done to my truck when I get it back. I'd like to increase the HP by at least 85HP and increase the torque by at least 200 FtLbs.

I've received estimates on 3 types of enhancements:
1. Torque plate, gauges (EGT,Boost, TransTemp), deep tranny pan. $900

2. Fuel Pump, injectors, deep tranny pan, and gauges. $1400

3. Air intake and exhaust, guages and deep tranny pan. $ TBD

Out of the 3 choices - without cost being a factor, what would be the best mod to do on a 10 year old truck with 121K mileage?

Thanks again!!