When I turn the key to start the truck it just clicks. This was happening intermittently for a couple months. Then on the 4th it just decided to take a crap. I just keep turning the key and it just keeps clicking. I had rebuilt the starter solenoid about a 1 1/2 years ago. I figured that was probably the problem again, so I rebuilt it again. The one contact was pretty wore down and the plunger ring was pretty chewed up as well. Put the starter back in and the same thing happened, just a click. Do you think I just need a new starter period? How do you jump the starter?

 

If your battery connections are clean and tight, batterys test good then starter motor. How did the brushes look? did you replace them?

 

I did not look in the starter motor. My battery connections and voltage are good. I'm going to pull it back off today and get it tested. If it is bad should I just get a new one or replace the brushes. I would hate to pull it, re-install and pull it again. Thanks for your reply.

 

I've had new/reman starters not work properly. Yea, they'll spin when tested on a bench but most fail under a load which a bench test won't show.

 

Reman starters from most auto parts are not heavy enough. Rebuild yours, if it's the original, or get a good one here. He also stocks all the rebuild parts.
http://www.fostertruck.com/dodge/

 

As bad as this sounds, actally try hitting the starter with a hammer a few times...not saying that you should ever hit any part of your truck with a hammer but, it works!

I've had to do it to a few different trucks ranging from a DT466 International down to a 1969 Camaro w/ a 327. Just give'er a few wacks and try it, if it works then you've just saved yourself a pretty penny!

 

So I tested my batteries and the driver side tested bad under load. I replaced it and tried again. Still get a click and nothing. I got the starter tested and Advanced Auto and it worked fine on the bench. Could it still be the starter isn't strong enough to turn the engine?

 

Sounds like a typical worn out contacts/plunger. Check ebay, you can usually buy a kit under $20 and rebuild it yourself.

 

if you were closer i would let you use my stand by starter (brand new bosch)
to check out your system

 

Sounds more like low voltage, bad grounds , or contacts in the solenoid on the starter. The starter itself isn't clicking , the contacts are. If the starter bench tested ok, it would make some attempt to crank if it was getting enough voltage. It still could be slow under load, but it don't click.

 

Any update to this? I'm sure it was plunger/contacts. I've sent pm to OP

 

x2 on the simple cheap to repalce contacts

 

Do you have any diagnostic capability? If you have a multimeter and clip-on leads, you can do voltage-drop tests and determine if you have cable problems or connection problems at the other end. Best to do as much troubleshooting as possible, rather than throwing parts at it.

Because the cables are so large and the current from the meter is so small, a traditional ohms-resistance test does not work in this situation.

A voltage-drop test basically sets up a secondary, parallel electrical path that you will test. Clearly, you CANNOT run the entire starting-system current through a multimeter - you'd instantly melt the leads and kill the meter, so this is done with the battery cables on, just as normal. To do a voltage-drop test, set your meter to DC voltage. If testing the negative side (you should check on both batteries), connect one lead to the battery post if possible, and to the terminal if you cant clip to the post. Connect the other end to the bolt head where the cable bolts to the block. Try to crank the engine, and observe the reading. Anything more than .5 volts drop indicates a problem somewhere (dirty/corroded connection or corroded/broken cable). .5 volts may be on the generous side. Test the negative side of both batteries, then test the positive side from the battery post to the starter post, and also between the battery positives (to test the radiator-top cable).

Do a Google/youtube search for "voltage-drop test" or "voltage-drop testing" for a better look.

If you have a multimeter and it doesn't have a hold or memory feature, get a remote starter switch and connect it between the two posts on the starter, so you can hit the starter and still see your meter. That's a good idea enyway, so you don't aren't energising the fuel solenoid.

 

or you can just jump the starter in postion. make sure youve got a well insulated screwdriver or heavy leather gloves. turn the ignition on and lay conductor point to point on starter. itll either turn or it wont. best way to rule out starter.

 

sorry i havent had an update. it ended up being a bad connection on the battery. next time i will look at the simplist first.