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No BUS error and all dash gauges dead

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Old 10-03-2010, 08:22 PM
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Just checked out my 2001 for this. I believe the problem was one of the plugs in the back of the insturment cluster was not in all the way. It's a pretty chincy set up on how they plug into the cluster.

I know this thread is old, but someone might try pushing in on the insturment cluster from the front while pushing in on the two plugs going into it in the back side of it.
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Old 04-05-2011, 09:23 PM
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I am having this same problem and found this thread. It did this a couple months ago once and went away until today. Now it wont go away. All the connections discussed in this thread look good. Any other idea?
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Old 04-05-2011, 10:38 PM
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Sorry to hear that Pinkston - have you cleaned all the grounds under the hood - I believe there are 5 - do a search.

Mine still has not returned after 2.5 years thank God. But keep in mind, I actually had to clean a couple of them twice - it came back after one poor cleaning.

Hopefully someone else might chime in with some other possible plugs to check / clean / grease.
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Old 04-06-2011, 08:04 AM
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im going to do some more checking tonight and pick up some grease for the plugs. We had alot of rain and wind Monday night, I wonder if something got wet.

Another odd thing its doing... I have the overhead console in my truck and the small red light in the center stays on. I just noticed this yesterday. It normally only flashes when the truck is parked.
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Old 04-07-2011, 08:14 PM
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Originally Posted by CORed View Post
RESOLVED:

I did some internet searches and found on wiki.answers.com that it's a dirty connection under the hood. I had already tried wiggling the connections under the dash and disconnecting and leaving the batteries for 1-2 hours and other things.

But cleaning the main connection to the fuse box under the hood did it. I took it off, blew it out with compressed air, and re-attached. Some said you could put dialectric grease in there, but I didn't do that. See pic.

Thanks for everyone's input. Funny how for 7 years, all is well, then one day... poof!
I pulled this plug off the other night checked it and put it back in... still had the same problem.

Tonight I pulled it back out again, blew it out with some air, and used some dielectric grease... problem solved.

Now for some reason my ABS and Brake light stay on.
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Old 05-04-2011, 03:02 AM
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I had my water pump go put and leak coolant down to the grounds under the engine block above the oil pan. I had also added a few extra grounds and those were dirty. I cleaned the grounds really well, fixed the pump, and rebuilt the alternator and my no bus and all my codes are gone. I have P1698, and P1987 if I recall, PCM errors, then no bus. Also my center dash said CCD and the red light was on all the time. The airbag like, check engine light, and the abs light were on and off.

Does anyone know on that bolt under the fuse box has anything under it that would interfere from drilling all the way through and a nut put on the back side with a bolt? Mine when I try to tighten it just spins. It is ok , but I would feel better if it was more secure.

Also for any others having problems, check your PCM plugs. My far left one the tab had cracked and it could back out. I ran a zip tie around the pcm and the plug to keep it tight.
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Old 03-15-2013, 06:50 AM
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2012 Ram 3500 Bad ECM

Just FYI. On wednesday I went out to start my 2012 Ram 3500HD to run some errors and do some towing and had the dash light up like a Christmas tree and the display read No Bus. Dodge towed it to the dealer and got around to looking at it on Thursday. They called to tell me that it was a bad ECM in the Dash and would either be fixed Friday or Monday afternoon depending on when they get the part in. I have had the truck less than a month (bought it from the dealer "new" with about 530 miles on it. Purchased the extended warranty, now I am thinking I am glad that I did.

~Mike
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Old 03-15-2013, 02:53 PM
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Glad to know the No Bus issue is still alive and well

I had the problem with my 2001 back in the day. Outside of warranty and the dealer held the truck for almost two weeks waiting on the part because of nationwide back-order. Wouldn't return the truck since they had to order the part programmed with the mileage and if it was driven it would result in a mismatched mileage. Put me really close to leaving the truck there permanently.
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Old 03-17-2013, 11:14 AM
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Update on 2012 Ram3500HD Larime

Dealer replaced ECM, now the truck will not even start. Thank heavens it is new (jan 30) and still under waranty. Will update as I get more information.
Kinda dissappointed in the failure, but that is what happens sometimes. Salesperson is taking care of me so I have a ride, but I really want my truck back.
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Old 03-24-2013, 09:55 AM
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Originally Posted by JasonblkZ06 View Post
I had my water pump go put and leak coolant down to the grounds under the engine block above the oil pan. I had also added a few extra grounds and those were dirty. I cleaned the grounds really well, fixed the pump, and rebuilt the alternator and my no bus and all my codes are gone. I have P1698, and P1987 if I recall, PCM errors, then no bus. Also my center dash said CCD and the red light was on all the time. The airbag like, check engine light, and the abs light were on and off.

Does anyone know on that bolt under the fuse box has anything under it that would interfere from drilling all the way through and a nut put on the back side with a bolt? Mine when I try to tighten it just spins. It is ok , but I would feel better if it was more secure.

Also for any others having problems, check your PCM plugs. My far left one the tab had cracked and it could back out. I ran a zip tie around the pcm and the plug to keep it tight.
Jason, Can you list where the grounds are actually located please? Especially the PCM ground as I feel it could be the major contributor to the "NO BUS" messages.
Thanks
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Old 03-24-2013, 02:56 PM
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Often, these faults are caused by a slightly higher resistance in a bus circuit. If this resistance is within a connector, it is usually caused by a small amount of "fretting corrosion", which is basically a small black mark you would see on the pin and the terminal with a magnifying glass. Like a witness mark that shows where the pin and terminal contact each other.

Lots of times, this can be repaired by cleaning and reseating connectors, like you all have been doing. What I wanted to recommend here was when you open a connector, although it will look fine visually, spray down the pins and terminals with electronic contact cleaner, dry them off with compressed air, then put a smear of dielectric grease across the terminals. I've had good luck with this procedure in the past, and wanted to point out that the contact cleaner is an important part of it. Other than that, it's a crapshoot as to actually solving the problem.
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Old 05-11-2015, 10:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Liecha View Post
Dealer replaced ECM, now the truck will not even start. Thank heavens it is new (jan 30) and still under waranty. Will update as I get more information.
Kinda dissappointed in the failure, but that is what happens sometimes. Salesperson is taking care of me so I have a ride, but I really want my truck back.
Just realized I never updated my situation.

Turns out there was a short somewhere in the Harness. The dealer replaced the whole thing as trying to track down the short would have been a nightmare. Took about three weeks to get it back as this never happens to these trucks, took two weeks to get the parts from the factory.

Ever since everything has been well with the electrical on the truck. Still like it.
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Old 06-21-2015, 02:10 PM
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My truck began doing this a couple weeks ago and got progressively worse until it began to affect the shifting where the truck would slip in and out of gear. I tried this fix, unplugging the main connection under the dash, blowing out the plug and putting it back together. This fixed my problem for a day of driving then started happening again, not as bad as before but I suspect it to get worse again. Anyone tried just cleaning the grounds?
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