Kansas KDP
 

Is there anyone out there reading DTR that is from Kansas? I am worried about the KDP on my 1998 2500 and need to find a shop that can tab it, seal it and still leave me an arm and leg. I use to be a fair mechanic on my older vehicles but now I've got more SS in my lower back than steel in my Dodge's dash. I just can't do things like that anymore. I bought the first 24 valve sold in Salina and probably the first in Kansas. I can't even find anyone in this town who knows what KDP stands for let alone how to fix it. I have no qualms about doing a little driving to get to a shop if I can find one that can fix it at a reasonable cost. What is reasonable?
Post or "e" me please.
royalh@alltel.net

I am out east of Okc,, I can email you the step by step repair and the parts numbers to take to someone close to you, You have a grandson?? It is a really simple fix. Goodluck,,,Rick

Ok brothers, pardon my ignorance. I've searched and still don't know what KDP is. Is is something I should be worried about?

Try searching under killer dowel pin
Luc

Kandgo:
Thanks. I think I've got the seal number but from what I read, getting the fan off , the seal installed and the case back over the shaft snout is the big problem. Check me out on these numbers; Gasket: 3918673 or 5012290AA and Seal: 3804899 or 4638719. Don't have grandson or even any mechanically inclined friends or relation. I have read a lot about the "seal kit" and it having alignment/installation tools (pilot) but nothing about where you get a "kit".

You can order the "kit" from someone like TST or just go to Cummins and get a new front seal, Cummins also sells a KDP tab as does Piers and others. My early 24 valve didn't use a timing cover gasket so I just used an appropriate sealer. Any shop with reasonable mechanics should be able to do the repair, probably charge 2-3 hours I'd imagine.

Email me your email address and I will send the info on doing it. You could walk someone thru it real easy. Once you do one they can be done in two hours. Your parts numbers are correct the tab is cm 3958107 If you go with the cummins one the bolt is long enough, if you go with a homemade thick one pickup a longer 8mmx1.25x25mm grade 8 and retourqe to 18 to 22 ft lbs. Goodluck,,,Rick

Rick:
Please send me the info. and thanks. I am a little worried about some of the shops around here getting the seal in properly and dry so it will transfer the film of teflon to the shaft. I've had a couple of episodes with some "mechanics" around here and it doesn't inspire confidence. I pulled the complete steering assembly from my John Deere tractor and took it to the dealer to get new "O" rings and bushings put it. I knew the bushings were worn and letting the insides move up and down. The mechanic told me the gears were worn out and I had to go to his bench and show him the sliding bushings. The 5 star Dodge dealer took most of 2 days to find out that the TP sensor was picking up stray inteference from the wiring harness. Earn while you learn.
royalh@alltel.net

The info is on the way, The TPS is a booger, I had to take the wires out of the harnesss and put them in thier own harness to solve the problem on my 94 auto. Goodluck,,,,Rick

I see pictures of some long wrenches to hold and remove the fan nut but I haven't found out where they are available at. I have been told I can get a seal kit from TST but I am not familiar with who or where they are and a search turned up nothing. Initials are great if you are familiar with what they stand for, but if not they can be very confusing, I guess that is why the government loves initials for everything.

Pardon my last thread. I found an answer from Infidel that had the TST web address so I am fine on that. Still wondering about those long wrenches however. Thanks

A hammer and a flat punch will take that fan off!! Goodluck,,Rick