Dave Miller

Thanks 'Patdaily' I see your 97 is a 2500. I'm wondering if any diff for a 3500. 'Dodge Demon' is tour 2001.5 a 3500?

I'm considering going either with the T setup for 99 or aftermarket cross-over steering like Thuren offers. The crossover looks beefer than the stock T setup. Also considering 'Bullet Proof Steering' crossover setup.

I think my tie rods on my 3500 are the same size as on the 99 T setup because I looked at a friends 99 3500 and his looked the same size but is T and my 97 3500 is Y.

I don't see anyone using the T with a 3500 model.

biododge1

I'll take a pic in the morn-I have the "t" setup. I belive it's factory.

patdaly

Dave, 2500 is the same as 3500 with the Diesel.

The only negative I know about the Thuren is they are not taper studs, do not believe it is DOT approved.

( Not that I care much about it, but for legal reasons, I stay DOT approved....)

biododge1

Here it is on a '98 3500. Keep in mind the steering stabilizer is missing.

Dodge Demon

Its 2500.

Dave Miller

Is converting to a T setup DOT approved? The advantage of the T setup over the cross-over setup is the cross-over requires drilling out the stock knuckles and then you can never go back to stock.

Is it worth it? Good question and I wish I knew. I believe you are right about the Thuren setup not being taper studs. It requires drilling out the taper stud holes on the wheel knuckles from a taper to a straight 3/4 inch hole.

I converted my 2nd gen track bar to 3rd gen and I suppose that is not DOT approved either. I've done lots of conversions from stock....air filter, exhaust removed catalytic converter. Why stop now?

I have read the stabilizer won't go back on unless some different mounting method is used.

This front end needs help to be drivable and I am tired of the stock problems.

patdaly

I believe the main reason the Thuren setup is not DOT is because of the way the tie rods attach, not simply because it is a different design.

Like I said, I don't care one way or the other, 99 people out of a hundred will never have a problem, but with my luck, I will have an accident, and even if it was not a result of the modifications, I would get smacked with a lawsuit or worse because I had modified steering linkage. ( Remember, new legal ground is being made every day by States Attorneys filing negligent homicide charges )

All I know is when Greenie needs something replaced, I will order up the 98/99 setup with Moog parts again, and motor happily along, no DW even without a stabilizer.

BTW, the stock 98/99 is a T setup...... Your post almost reads like you think the 98/99 is still a Y.

As for the stabilizer, I am going to make a simple clamp to attach the stabilizer in more or less the stock 97 location. I do not like it where they relocated it in 98/99.

Dave Miller

Thanks for your reply. I did not mean to impy the 98/98 design is still a Y if that is the way I came across. It's just I am confused that it is implied the T design is way beefer but looking at my buddies 99 3500 4x4 and comparing to my 97 3500 4x4 the tie rods look about the same size. It is true my budddies 99 does look like a T setup and my 97 definately is a Y setup.

That is why I'm considering the cross-over setup for my 3500 because the size of the cross-over rods look beefer. I do appreciated you response because I'm just not sure which way to go...T vs Cross-over. I'd really like to believe the T setup will be work for me but I'm just trying to understand this before I spent more money on this front end.

Thanks for your help on this and sorry for my response sounding incorrect.

I was looking for confirmation that 1 ton trucks were also doing this T conversion and you gave it to me with your reply...thanks.

Dave

Dave Miller

'BioDodge1" are you happy with the T setup on your 3500 and how long have you had the T setup on or did it come stock thata way?...thanks for posting the pics.

Thanks,
Dave

biododge1

I am happy with it-I have yet to experience any deathwoble. I don't know for sure, but I think it was factory( who knows what the prev owner did-other then the vp).

I will say, the parts are tough. I had hit a deer and the only part to fail was the steering stabilizer(thats why it's missing). I've had the truck for 4yrs-50,000miles and all the joints are still good!

patdaly

Dave, put a caliper on each one. I think the 97 is roughly 7/8", while the 98 is over a inch. That is huge when you get to linkages, and if you bend something there, you are way, way outside of sanity.

BTW, I have my doubts about any linkage "solving" DW, heck I never had DW when my linkage was shot and I even had on the dreaded BFGs ( 235-85-16 though ).

Dave Miller

Thanks for your replys 'biododge1' and pat.

I know my 3rd gen track bar is loose and needs new bushings which I'm trying to get. I had the death wobble several times in the last 2 weeks and I'm willing to go with the T setup just to get new parts if anything and that should help. My other joint look tight but the rubber boots are cracked enough to get replaced.

I'll get my calipers out and check them bars. Even if they are not bigger the geometry should help.

Dave

patdaly

The geometry is the biggie!

Also, while you are having the Alignment done, make SURE they dial in the max caster. Some shops cheat and say good enough. The Caster adjustment can be a booger to do......... I still believe the Caster has more to do with DW than anything else.

Dave Miller

A few years ago I had new right front tires wearing out in 2 months and finally found an excellent alignment/frame shop that fixed my problem and adjusted caster and camber to specs I have seen posted here and TDR. I have max caster and toe set low etc.. but It's been awhile since I had it aligned . Also, I now need a new set of tires (which also may be contributing some to my front end troubles). I'll get an alignment after I do the T setup.

I have already put alot of effort and money into this front end, so I want this to be my last mod there. I want to besure to determine which is the best setup for me so I don't need to do this again. I'm leaning toward the T setup.

I ageee that the geometry is important but going with the (I believe) bigger size of the crossover setup can't hurt this heavy front end either. That's what I'm pondering right now....T or crossover.

Thanks for helping me understand this better.

Dave

DIESELWRKS

so will post pics soon computer crapped on me. I have done my traction-bars I have done the dt-pro fab trac bar and currently getting the T steering put on and alignment done. so I will post some pics of it when the computer is up. also I took off a used 40k mile DSS trac-bar without the bracket. what do you think that would be worth?