Installing amp and 2 10" subs need opinions!!!!!!!!!!!!
02-07-2008, 04:55 PM
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Installing amp and 2 10" subs need opinions!!!!!!!!!!!!
I bought a dual 10" speaker box of ebay that fits under the rear bench seat. I have this amp http://www.epinions.com/614193_MTX_A...ay_~full_specs and two of these speakers http://www.polkaudio.com/caraudio/specs/dx10-4/ . Do you think that since this truck has two batteries (and hopefully a stronger alt. than gassers) that I need to use a fared cap to help with voltage drop? I will be using 2 gauge from the battery to the amp.
02-07-2008, 05:28 PM
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Ya, I have one its just that, its the type that doesn't have a on or off switch it just senses voltage use and turns it self on and then turns of when no voltage is being used. When everthing is off you could honk the horn from outside the truck and it would turn on. I never liked it and thought that it could possibly run down the battery's since I never know if it is off. Thats what bothers me because now this truck has an alarm and if it picks up the flashing led it could possibly run down the batteries. I know that I could just go and get one that has an on/off switch that works with the amp but I have alot sterieo stuff sitting around and don't feel like spending anymore money.
02-07-2008, 05:33 PM
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oh , i never had one that fancy lol i never had one run a battery dead but never had one with all those fancy stuff , i guess u could always try it out , just have some jumper cables ready, good luck
02-07-2008, 05:34 PM
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looks to me like 2 gauge is overkill on wires. i dont see a need for the cap. ... i have all sorts of lights, and a soundstream reference 700sx hooked up to mine and my headlights barrelly dim at all if any. i also have 2 12" subs..
02-07-2008, 05:48 PM
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The reason I run 2 gauge is because I used to run one line to a fuse block to three amps. And since I still have it, mise well use it and save some money.
Well since you guy are pretty in tuned with car audio how about these speakers http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_c...hp?comp_id=119 (given to me by a good friend) getting ran by this head unit http://www.crutchfield.com/App/Produ...DA9825&tp=5684 (which is in the truck now). My friend says I need an amp for them ( all four corners of the truck). I looks like the stereo has just enough power to push them, what do you think. If not I might have to put in that other amp with that cap.
Well since you guy are pretty in tuned with car audio how about these speakers http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_c...hp?comp_id=119 (given to me by a good friend) getting ran by this head unit http://www.crutchfield.com/App/Produ...DA9825&tp=5684 (which is in the truck now). My friend says I need an amp for them ( all four corners of the truck). I looks like the stereo has just enough power to push them, what do you think. If not I might have to put in that other amp with that cap.
02-07-2008, 09:24 PM
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To answer your first question, no, you don't need a cap. In my opinion, a cap shouldn't be used unless you're running over 500 or so watts continuous and pushing at least 12" subs. However, to each his own. Now as for you putting in the JLs, definitely do it. But I would highly recommend powering them with an amp. Doesn't have to be anything special, looking at the specs for the speakers, you should be running a minimum of 50 watts RMS, NOT PEAK, to each. So if you have four speakers then a 200 or so watt, 4 channel amp is something to consider. JL makes great products and you can't go wrong with them. I prefer a component system to coaxial speakers, but everybody has different needs. You shouldn't need a cap with this setup either, as you don't have any real hard hitting bass. I myself have a 10" Polk with 250 going to it along with (4) 6 1/2" Polk components with 100 going to each of them, powered by 2 Infiniti amps and a Kicker. All run with 4 ga. and no problems. 2 ga. is overkill, but I guess if you got it, then run it 
Sorry for the long response, any more ?'s feel free to ask.
Sorry for the long response, any more ?'s feel free to ask.
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02-07-2008, 09:55 PM
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I don't agree that you don't need a cap under a certain power. IMHO, you should ALWAYS run a cap anytime you put a stereo in a vehicle. Lights, compressors, alarms, etc are different from stereos in the fact that they do not spike the current draw (as much or as often). Essentially the cap is only needed when the current spikes. The current draw can't necessarily be judged by a change in the brightness of the headlights. I have 2 - 12" Kicker Comp VR subs and a JBL amp pushing about 200w RMS each in my 96 Neon. Even without the cap the headlights didn't dim. But considering the size of the electrical system in that car (500CCA batt and a small alt) that is A LOT of current being used. You may not notice it in the short term but in the long term some damage will be done.
That being said, save the strain on your alternator and batteries and run a cap. You probably don't need a full farad but if you have it use it. Amp the JL's, they will sound MUCH better...
That being said, save the strain on your alternator and batteries and run a cap. You probably don't need a full farad but if you have it use it. Amp the JL's, they will sound MUCH better...
02-08-2008, 09:03 AM
#9
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Every amp I have owned has had enough capacitors built in to it for efficient running with the correct amount of supplied power. The key is the supplied power. I have built many systems over the years and a couple of them have been conservatively over 2kw, even when I ran a US amps 2000x and a pair of Eclipse TIs that would peak in the 4k range. Not saying I didn't need one just saying I didn't see any indication I needed one. Generally most of the time my systems aren't that bass heavy and so the draw isn't that large and I generally don't have the room LOL. I also run 2/0 wire that stores a good volume of energy and have upgraded the rest of the grounds on the truck. I currently have a JL 1000/1-2 x 300/4 bridged and a 300/2 with no cap and no dimming lights or flickering volt gauge so...? As already said if you want to put it in it won't hurt just make sure the wires from the cap to the amp are as short as you can make them (less than a foot ) for it to be effective. Just my $.02
02-08-2008, 01:23 PM
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To answer your first question, no, you don't need a cap. In my opinion, a cap shouldn't be used unless you're running over 500 or so watts continuous and pushing at least 12" subs. However, to each his own. Now as for you putting in the JLs, definitely do it. But I would highly recommend powering them with an amp. Doesn't have to be anything special, looking at the specs for the speakers, you should be running a minimum of 50 watts RMS, NOT PEAK, to each. So if you have four speakers then a 200 or so watt, 4 channel amp is something to consider. JL makes great products and you can't go wrong with them. I prefer a component system to coaxial speakers, but everybody has different needs. You shouldn't need a cap with this setup either, as you don't have any real hard hitting bass. I myself have a 10" Polk with 250 going to it along with (4) 6 1/2" Polk components with 100 going to each of them, powered by 2 Infiniti amps and a Kicker. All run with 4 ga. and no problems. 2 ga. is overkill, but I guess if you got it, then run it Sorry for the long response, any more ?'s feel free to ask.
Sorry for the long response, any more ?'s feel free to ask.
02-08-2008, 09:58 PM
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Well, went ahead and pulled out the interior, changed speakers and ran new wire for them. Come to find out i'll need some new feed wire for the amps (old stuff just to short), so other than that i'm done. Hopefully after I get some new wire i'll be listening to my new system within an hour.Not bad for one person to install 10 speakers, 4 crossovers, new wiring for each speaker, 2 amps, 3 sets of rca's cables, soldered all connection and put everything back together within 5 hours of work.
02-09-2008, 07:12 PM
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I don't agree that you don't need a cap under a certain power. IMHO, you should ALWAYS run a cap anytime you put a stereo in a vehicle. Lights, compressors, alarms, etc are different from stereos in the fact that they do not spike the current draw (as much or as often). Essentially the cap is only needed when the current spikes. The current draw can't necessarily be judged by a change in the brightness of the headlights. I have 2 - 12" Kicker Comp VR subs and a JBL amp pushing about 200w RMS each in my 96 Neon. Even without the cap the headlights didn't dim. But considering the size of the electrical system in that car (500CCA batt and a small alt) that is A LOT of current being used. You may not notice it in the short term but in the long term some damage will be done.
That being said, save the strain on your alternator and batteries and run a cap. You probably don't need a full farad but if you have it use it. Amp the JL's, they will sound MUCH better...
That being said, save the strain on your alternator and batteries and run a cap. You probably don't need a full farad but if you have it use it. Amp the JL's, they will sound MUCH better...