infinity sound system
ehh?
I just installed a Kenwood KDC-X759 Excelon head unit in my 96 with the infinity setup- Works fine.
All it needs is sound (high level, not line) and a turn on signal, which most all headunits provide via a power antenna or amp turn-on lead.
Interestingly, the infinity amp only amplifies the rear speakers and the 6x9s in the door. The head unit's signal powers the tweeters.
Are you sure the amps are actually on the speakers? When I activate the infinity system, the click comes from behind the glove box somewhere. Might just be relays, but I asked an installer at a local stereo shop (Car Toys) and he said it was behind the dash.. I can't vouch for that though.
The whole setup actually sounds pretty good. Originally it was rather boomy, but increasing the bass Q on the HU to 1.5 cleared that up nicely.
Now, for a sub.. I'm thinking of getting the Stealthbox-like enclosure being sold on Ebay right now. I don't want to give up the precious little storage space behind my seats! (Standard cab
)
I just installed a Kenwood KDC-X759 Excelon head unit in my 96 with the infinity setup- Works fine.
All it needs is sound (high level, not line) and a turn on signal, which most all headunits provide via a power antenna or amp turn-on lead.
Interestingly, the infinity amp only amplifies the rear speakers and the 6x9s in the door. The head unit's signal powers the tweeters.
Are you sure the amps are actually on the speakers? When I activate the infinity system, the click comes from behind the glove box somewhere. Might just be relays, but I asked an installer at a local stereo shop (Car Toys) and he said it was behind the dash.. I can't vouch for that though.
The whole setup actually sounds pretty good. Originally it was rather boomy, but increasing the bass Q on the HU to 1.5 cleared that up nicely.
Now, for a sub.. I'm thinking of getting the Stealthbox-like enclosure being sold on Ebay right now. I don't want to give up the precious little storage space behind my seats! (Standard cab
)
I dont get any clicks when my speakers turn on. the back of my infinity system 6x9 have a circut board too and the plug has a ton of wires for the speaker. I Tried a 98dodge ram casset deck from my dads truck that pluged right into the harness. no sound even from the functionall speaker. I also tried his new pioneer head unit that also plugs into the harness. Still no sound from any speakers. Put the infinity cd deck back in and the one working speaker starts again. I could be wrong though but theres a lot of crap on those 6x9's that most 6x9's dont have.
....on my '99 / Infinity , the amps were attached to the front speakers - I clipped the wires from these mini-amps, and wired my Sony directly to the speakers - and they worked fine (as fine as a paper-coned speaker could!); As I recall - no amp in sight on the rears, so I ran the wires from the Xplod HU right to them, no cutting req'd....they again work as well as paper-coned speakers can be expected to
I would just rip out all that factory crap. You could have a steallar systme for less then 400 bucks if you do the install. Which is really easy to do. Just get a good set of coaxials and a great head unit. I have a Pioneer Premier 760mp. Plays any CD, and also have lots of expanding. I just use XM radio most of the time. I had the crappy AM/FM radio and 4 speakers. I still have to stock speakers in the back and some really nice JBL speakers up front. Sounds greats.
Guys,
You don't have to rewire everything if you don't want to. I am lazy so I didn't. Here's the secret.
On your front doors, the wiring harness there controls the wiring for that entire side. There is a "left front in" "left front out" "left rear in" "left rear out". The "in" is coming from the headunit and the "out" is coming from the amp. First cut the factory speaker off close to the speaker so you have some wire to work with. Now look at connector that is attached to the door. It's got 10 wires, 1 2 3 4 on the top and 5-10 on the bottom.
#3 and #4 are your positive and negative respectively for the front speaker. That is "unamped" so coming straght from the HU. Put those to your new speakers.
Attach #5 with #10 and #6 with #9, those are the ones going to your rear speakers. That is the "in" and "out" for each negative and positive. Basically instead of feeding it into the amp and back out, youre just bypassing it.
Here is a pic from the FSM:
By the way, the colors in ANY FSM I've ever owned NEVER match up, but the wiring locations always have.
You don't have to rewire everything if you don't want to. I am lazy so I didn't. Here's the secret.
On your front doors, the wiring harness there controls the wiring for that entire side. There is a "left front in" "left front out" "left rear in" "left rear out". The "in" is coming from the headunit and the "out" is coming from the amp. First cut the factory speaker off close to the speaker so you have some wire to work with. Now look at connector that is attached to the door. It's got 10 wires, 1 2 3 4 on the top and 5-10 on the bottom.
#3 and #4 are your positive and negative respectively for the front speaker. That is "unamped" so coming straght from the HU. Put those to your new speakers.
Attach #5 with #10 and #6 with #9, those are the ones going to your rear speakers. That is the "in" and "out" for each negative and positive. Basically instead of feeding it into the amp and back out, youre just bypassing it.
Here is a pic from the FSM:
By the way, the colors in ANY FSM I've ever owned NEVER match up, but the wiring locations always have.
I have the kenwood mp 919 I like it it has remote and mask security where the faceplate actually turns around and hide's itself when you turn it off I also have the kenwood music keg it is a 10gig hardrive that you can store over 2500 songs in mp3 format even comes with software and usb docking station so you can use your pc to download cd's into mp3 format. As for running a component set you need an amp I would look into a coaxial those will run off deckpower nicely, a component said would not sound very good on deckpower
Chris
One of mine quit and snce I had a casset system I put in a cd system with new speakers. Therefore i have one infinity speaker out of my 98 12v that Ill sell you CHEAP!!! let me know if interested. Was working fine when I removed it! Rick
One of mine quit and snce I had a casset system I put in a cd system with new speakers. Therefore i have one infinity speaker out of my 98 12v that Ill sell you CHEAP!!! let me know if interested. Was working fine when I removed it! Rick
Originally posted by njoverkill
Guys,
You don't have to rewire everything if you don't want to. I am lazy so I didn't. Here's the secret.
On your front doors, the wiring harness there controls the wiring for that entire side. There is a "left front in" "left front out" "left rear in" "left rear out". The "in" is coming from the headunit and the "out" is coming from the amp. First cut the factory speaker off close to the speaker so you have some wire to work with. Now look at connector that is attached to the door. It's got 10 wires, 1 2 3 4 on the top and 5-10 on the bottom.
#3 and #4 are your positive and negative respectively for the front speaker. That is "unamped" so coming straght from the HU. Put those to your new speakers.
Attach #5 with #10 and #6 with #9, those are the ones going to your rear speakers. That is the "in" and "out" for each negative and positive. Basically instead of feeding it into the amp and back out, youre just bypassing it.
Here is a pic from the FSM:
By the way, the colors in ANY FSM I've ever owned NEVER match up, but the wiring locations always have.
Guys,
You don't have to rewire everything if you don't want to. I am lazy so I didn't. Here's the secret.
On your front doors, the wiring harness there controls the wiring for that entire side. There is a "left front in" "left front out" "left rear in" "left rear out". The "in" is coming from the headunit and the "out" is coming from the amp. First cut the factory speaker off close to the speaker so you have some wire to work with. Now look at connector that is attached to the door. It's got 10 wires, 1 2 3 4 on the top and 5-10 on the bottom.
#3 and #4 are your positive and negative respectively for the front speaker. That is "unamped" so coming straght from the HU. Put those to your new speakers.
Attach #5 with #10 and #6 with #9, those are the ones going to your rear speakers. That is the "in" and "out" for each negative and positive. Basically instead of feeding it into the amp and back out, youre just bypassing it.
Here is a pic from the FSM:
By the way, the colors in ANY FSM I've ever owned NEVER match up, but the wiring locations always have.
Old thread, but I'll chime in. The wiring between the Head Unit and the speaker amps located in the front doors is SMALL. I would think changing out the wiring would be the right thing to do.
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