kd460

Unless it got tucked up behind something during reassembly, you should be able to get to the multiconnecter from underneath without taking anything apart. You may need to lay on the fllor of the truck and look up, but it is there. Also don't forget the antenna wire. KD

RDMueller

What size spring lock quick disconnect tool did you need to disconnect the a/c lines? They are available in 3/8, 1/2, 5/8, and 3/4. My guess would be 1/2, but I'd like to know for sure. Thanks!

kd460

Yes, 1/2 and 3/4 is correct. You also want two each of 13.8 x 2.5mm and 13.7 x 1.9mm O-rings. Coat them and the connections with pag 100 oil, and put 1 ounce of pag 100 oil in the evap just before installing.You also want about 3 to 4 feet of 5/8 inch heater core hose. The old hose is fused onto the heater core and won't come off.

Don't bother trying to remove the hose from the heater core, just take the clamps off at the core and disconnect the hose at the steel pipe at the engine. The whole unit will still pull off. No need to plug the steel lines at the engine, only about 3 or 4 cups of coolant come out. I just used a garbage back to direct the spillage away from the engine and into a tub on the ground.

Also don't forget the little vacuum line that comes out the same hole as the evaporator. Write yourself a note of something so you don't forget it. Good luck, KD

RDMueller

Thanks for the tips. I'm not actually doing the evaporator, just replacing the liquid line. Of course I need the spring lock tool for that too. Since you say 1/2 and 3/4, I'm guessing that there are two different size lines being used that require the two different size tools?

kd460

Those sizes are for the connections to the evap. at the firewall. One of those connections is for the hose, the other is for the acc/dryer. Sorry, I am work right now and not sure which was which. I'm pretty sure you won't need anything larger than 3/4 and nothing smaller than 1/2 inch. You have a 5/8ths so I would say your good. KD

1-2-3

I'm tackling mine today. I spent about an hour so far. I've got it down to seperating the lines. I'll pickup a tool for that when I pickup the replacement parts tomorrow. And some o-rings too. I don't have a pump or gauge set so I'll take it to a shop to have it vacumed and recharged. Hopefully by Saturday I'll be in the Done That Club.

kd460

Just take your time, it will go back together easier than it came apart. Good luck with it. KD

1-2-3

Hopefully all will be well. I've kept tabs on this thread because I knew that day would come to do this real soon. I'm not removing my dash. I've got it rolled down and lifted off the pivot bolts but it's still in the cab. I'm hoping the place Im getting my parts from will also have the spring clip tools for the lines. If not, I think I know how I can make some. It's just a tools that slips inside the fitting and realeases it, right? I'm thinking a small pvc coupler just the right sixe, split in half, then wrapped around the line and pushed towards the joint would do it. It might have to have be thinned down a little though.

D2 Cat

The tool you're needing to release the fittings are available at Harbor Freight for like $10 for a set of several sizes. They're not quality,but how many times will you use one?

1-2-3

I just got a set for $9.99 at the local O'Riley's.

1-2-3

Well I'm almost done. I've got it 95% back together. I drained my coolant so I can go ahead and take the radiator out for alook to see if there's been any junk form the puke bottle. I've always wanted to do this so I'm doing it today.

As I said in another thread this moning, my evap looked brand new at first glance, but when I pulled it out the other side was just about stopped all the way up with about 3/4 of the surface covered with an oil/grit mix. It was a little tricky to get the box put back together and back in place and I was swearing I'd slap a Dodge engineer if he was there with me for designing this, but now the bad parts is done so I might not slap him today.

1-2-3

Final report, two words......ICE COLD

Just the way I like it. I remembered I had a simple little vacum pump and I got me some gauges at Harbor Frieght for $39. Held about a steady 23 inch vacumm for two hours so I shot it with two 12 ounce cans. I read somewhere that said how much to put in. I was thinking it was 30 ounces but I'm not sure so I stopped at 24. The gauge set has a sight glass and it was running clean. I don't remember what the gauges read, but it don't matter cause I'm not sure what they are suppose to read. I couldn't find my thermometer but the wife needed a blanket on the test run down the road. I'm very happy with it.

RDMueller

I believe 30 is correct. Charging by weight is the best way to do it, but it is difficult to get it exact with the 12 oz cans. To get it exact you would need a large cylinder of refrigerant sitting on an accurate scale. Another method to get close is to charge to a high side pressure that is about 2.5 times the ambient temperature. Frankly, if it is ice cold, you are probably pretty close.

kd460

Good deal! My neighborhood has lots of automotive engineers for some reason. They are good guys and always willing to help out with a related question. But they have learned to stay away when I'm wrenching!

Glad you got her done. If I remember correctly, my 97 takes 30 ounces as well. The gauge reading will also vary depending upon temperature. KD

Miranda Maddock

Hey guys, so we are halted due to one of the ac lines being stuck, bigger one, i have 2004 1500 ram. Everything on dash and smaller ac line done, have bought multiple o'rings, wd40'd it and nothing, **** thing wont budge! Any ideas?