Help - 98.5 will not shut down with the key!
 

I did a search on this problem and found several posts addressing the SHUTDOWN SOLENOID. However, I also noticed that all of these posts were made in the 1st Generation boards of the forum. This being the case, I’m starting to wonder if the 98.5 even has this part installed.

Here’s the problem:

I park the truck, turn the key to the normal OFF position and nothing happens. My wife and I couldn’t believe our eyes when I pulled the key out of the ignition and the engine never even missed a beat! I suppose this problem beats an engine that won’t start at all, but there is something to be said for being able to shut off your engine normally.

After the shock wore off, I pulled the ENGINE CONTROL 2 fuse out of the fuse box to kill the engine. I later replaced the fuse and was quite pleased to find that the engine will start normally, but the key still has no effect on shutting the engine down.

I use my truck to put bread on the table, so your thoughts on this issue are greatly appreciated. Thank you for your time.

Wow! I'm no expert on the electrical side of things, but I'll toss a guess out anyway. Have you checked the injection pump relay to make sure it's not stuck on the on position? It's about the only thing I can think of that would do that since obviously you don't have a runaway (my first thought). Good luck and hopefully someone more knowledgeable will chime in soon.
mishkaya

I don't believe the 24v is the same as 12v for the shutdown solenoid...I can't find it in the location pic below (double-click on the pic to enlarge it):

Try the link to dodgeram.org for 24v descriptions till someone else can help. Im a 12v man.

http://dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/mt_2_feb98/isb_changes.htm

Good Luck,
Dave

Fuel System Components - 24-valve Cummins Turbo Diesel engine.

1. Fuel Transfer (Lift) Pump
2. Fuel Return Line (to Fuel Tank)
3. Fuel Supply Line (Low Pressure, to Engine)
4. Fuel Heater
5. Water-in-Fuel (WIF) Sensor
6. Fuel FilterlWater Separator
7. IA T Sensor
8. Map (Boost) Sensor
9. Fuel Drain Manifold
10. CKP Sensor
11. CMP Sensor
12. Overflow Valve
13. Drain Valve
14. Fuel Pressure Test Potts
15. ECM
16. ECT Sensor
17. Fuel Injection Pump
18. Throttle Lever Bell Crank and Apps
19, High-Pressure Fuel Lines
20. Fuel Injectors
21. Fuel Heater Temperature Sensor (Thermostat)
22. Oil Pressure Sensor
23. Fuel Injector Connector
24. Drain Tube
25. Intake Manifold Air Heater/Elements

Theres no shut down solenoid on the 24v. I'd look for stuck relays as well.

ASC relay underhood panel.

Thanks for the replies, folks. They are certainly much appreciated.

1-5-3-6-2-4: I will give the ASC relay in the underhood fuse block a try and get back to all of you with the results. I've got my fingers crossed for sure.

I had a feeling that the shutdown solenoid issue didn't apply to the 24v CTD, so I'm feeling a bit more confident at this point anyway.

Asc Relay?
 

I went out to the truck this morning and tried locating the ASC relay mentioned by 1-5-3-6-2-4. The closest thing I found in the fuse box under the hood was the ASD relay, so I swapped it out (in case of a typo in the post). Unfortunately, this didn't do the trick and the engine runs on ... I'm still pulling the ENGINE CONTROL 2 fuse to shut the engine down, but it's back to the drawing board for now.

Is it possible that I've got the wrong fuse block? I'm only aware of two on the truck: the large one adjacent to the driver's side battery and the one on the driver's side end of the dashboard.

Thanks again for your time ...

Maybe try the Fuel System Relay.
mishkaya

Yes, mishkaya, I have tried this swap as well. Unfortunately, no luck thus far ...

If pulling the relay shuts it down, it has to be an electrical problem somewhere. I would suggest checking the harnesses closely as well as the connectors at the pump; along with cleaning all the grounds. I know bad grounds can cause massive headaches on these trucks occasionally. Good luck.
mishkaya

Another possible cause could be from the wires running from the ignition switch down the steering column. I have heard that there is a connector under the plastic on the bottom of the column that can get broken if the tilt is often used. Usually this causes a no start symptom but it may be a good idea to pull off the plastic cover and check for damaged wires. Good luck.

Okay, so I took the advice given above and tried a procedure called an APPS RESET. This only involved turning the key and holding the gas pedal to the floor, so no manual adjustments were made. Unfortunately, this procedure didn't have any effect on my non-shutdown issue. On the contrary, it had the effect of causing a non-shift issue -- as in my 47RE will no longer shift out of 1st gear (max speed is about 23 mph now).

So ... this new issue now takes precedence over the old one. In other words, before I tried the Apps Reset steps above, my transmission was operating normally. Obviously, I've got electrical issues, but I'd really like to get back to square one.

Does anyone know the proper way to reset the APPS?

Once again, my truck is used to put bread on the table, so any words of advice would be greatly appreciated ...

Check out this link for info Click Here
Starter contacts can go bad, causing start issues OR can stick causing the engine to stay on.

~Rob

Maybe I'm missing something here, but if the starter contacts were stuck on wouldn't the starter be engaged while it was running? There is a problem if the starter stayed on and it could burn up the fuel solenoid which would probably cause a no-start condition. Anyhow, Larry B's has a starter diode that will prevent that but this problem is a No-shutdown condition.....hmmm.

You are correct, and that does not seem to be the problem here.
mishkaya