SIXSLUG

What a nightmare....the factory service manual is really vague and the you tube vids are mostly choppy, missing steps or taking shortcuts that I wouldn't want to use.

What I have found out is:
The Geno's dash board replacements are pretty nice.
The mopar agate spray paint is discontinued/unavalable-but it didn't really match my truck anyway, almost bluer than dark gray.
The dissasembly was rather simple, just time consuming.
There are a lot more fasteners that need to come out than shown in any you tube vid.
Fortunately I have another vehicle to drive while I do this correctly.
I had to bleed my a/c and pull the entire hvac box.
My steering column bolts were only hand tight!!
17 year old crap plastic is brittle as 17 year old crap plastic.

Just a heads up to anyone about to attempt this...

KATOOM

Yes, the process to replace the heater core is VERY involved. And in my opinion, its not the overall time consumption but rather that you're forced to evac the AC system which no everyday person can do (legally), and usually requires the service of an AC tech who will charge their portion within this whole process of just trying to change the heater core. Seriously.....someone dropped the ball when engineering this whole fiasco.

Instead, there are threads out there by people who figured out and used an alternative procedure to replace the heater core. It only requires leaning the dash back on its pivot points, cutting the heater core lines so you can remove it, then cutting the new heater core lines to match the cuts of the old heater core, mating the new core to the old lines still remaining in the firewall, and putting everything back together.

Some people are deeply opposed to this "shortcut" method of getting the job done without tearing the entire interior of the cab apart. But hey, whatever works. I choose the shortcut method and I'm very pleased with the results. I'm happy to dig up the threads listing instructions and pictures if anyone is interested too...

texasprd

Katoom, please do post those. I'd be most interested in seeing them, as I need to replace my dash top and go into the AC case to clean a bunch of organic material from the evaporator coil.

KATOOM

Here's a long thread on the subject. https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...229112/page10/

SIXSLUG

SO after about 6 hours total so far I have the mess back together and found this:

There is one more nut 11mm directly behind the valve cover that is the final fastener for the hvac box. Upon removing this it pretty much fell out.
The easiest one to get to on top of the heater core can get the threaded rod hung up in the bracket holding the computer and evaporator on the firewall, causing foul language.
Dropping the steering column was easy, once I removed the brake switch, which impeded it laying down to the seat.
I have about 14 extra screws due to the attachment points around the defrost registers that aren't accommodated for on the new dash cover, not sure how I would have gotten them in w/o removing the entire dash from the truck.
The vents line up nicely and are snug to the cover.
I wedged a firm piece of foam rubber under the passenger side vent to hold it in place against the grille, there is no screw hole offered on the new cover, the drivers side one rests in position well.
The aftermarket dash pad is acceptably accurate, but needed some dremelling to line up screw holes and trim around my seat heater, headlight and airbag switches. Two of the clip points for the bezel needed widening to the left, no big deal.
The fan box and all passages were dusty, but clean. I had one small leaf that made it's way to the blower cage after 18 years. None of the nightmare debris stories on here. On a side note my fuel tank was surprisingly clean with just a few grains of dirt in it back when I removed it for the draw straw mod...

Even in the PNW the plastics are getting brittle and fragile on the dash skeleton and need care taken when handling.

I chose not to quick fix because I'm not planning on selling my truck. I didn't like the method anyway.

Today I will wrap it up and see if I missed anything. I spent more time undoing interior trim pieces than actually removing and replacing the core, it will go smoother next time...

KATOOM

Just pointing out that if you removed the brake switch then you'll have to replace it with a brand new one as the old one will not work anymore. They're built that way as a one time deal... Installing a new one, you must set the trigger properly otherwise it too wont work right.

SIXSLUG

I just put it back on the mount, I didn't disconnect the harness. The brake lights and signals all work. Injectors will go in next, got some Bosch RV275's...

Danderson

The EZ and RV 275's are a great combo. My friend's been running that on his 98.5 from new.