Grrrr stupid quad cab doors wont open!!!
04-05-2008, 08:23 PM
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Grrrr stupid quad cab doors wont open!!!
Hello all, I have a 99' quad cab and the last few years I havnt been able to get the rear doors to open.(ohio winters and road salt caused this im sure) I rarely ever need the back seat for anything but accumulating junk but I would like to get the doors open! The top latch seems to release when I pull the handle but the bottom is froze up. I checked the handle and rod mechinism inside the door and they appear to work fine. I tired screwdrivers and dentist picks and coat hangers and lots of yelling but i cant figure out how to get that bottom latch to release!
I even crawled over the front seat into the back of the cab and started prying the inner plastic door panel off to attack the latch from the inside but I got no where fast 
Im about to torch the latch open, just havent figured out how to do it without setting fire to the whole rig... Any suggestions? thanks
I even crawled over the front seat into the back of the cab and started prying the inner plastic door panel off to attack the latch from the inside but I got no where fast Im about to torch the latch open, just havent figured out how to do it without setting fire to the whole rig... Any suggestions? thanks
04-06-2008, 04:10 PM
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I just fixed mine.
Basically the drivers side external handle (the one on the jamb) physically moves the latch mech inside. When it moves it, it moves it counterclockwise. This in turn loosens the bolt holding it onto the spindle/spring.
To fix:
Remove door panel (1 torx in the inner handle area, 2 phillips in the pull handle) and a panel removal tool to undo the 11 or so christmas tree fasteners and then there are 3 metal on metal push retainers on the rear upper frame.
Once you look inside, peel back the vapor barrier (i cut mine out and replaced it with 3m material) and look in the hole. Also, remove the lower vent/flap assembly (one xmas fastener, then it'll drop out, turn 90 deg and remove).
You'll see a rod going from the lower and upper latches to the mechanism in the middle. Fiddle with the handle and see how much free play each has.
On the mechanism, you'll see a barbed end of those rods fed into some clips on the rotating mechanism. Turning the rod will not move it up and down (taking up slack). Put a flat head screwdriver tween the rod and the clip holding it in, and pop it out. Then move the rod the appropriate direction to remove the slack, and re-press it into place. wiggle again. adjust again. etc etc. You don't have to shut the door to check operation either. You can manually shut each latch 2 clicks while the door is open, and the handle will work.
After it's adjusted to your liking, pull the 10mm bolt holding the rotator on the spindle (don't let the rotator fall off, it's a bear to put that spring on), and put some loctite on the threads, then put the bolt back in.
Passenger side, do the same, however the mech rotates clockwise in there, and shouldn't loosen the bolt holding it all together.
As for the inner handle, it's cable operated to the main mechanism.
When I tore mine apart, both ends of the cable had the retaining portion of the mount snapped off (thereby the cable wouldn't stay aligned to pull the mechanism correctly).
So, I opted to just not replace em ($35 from dealer, each) as I never have passengers.
The outside handles work just fine now.
PM if any questions.
Basically the drivers side external handle (the one on the jamb) physically moves the latch mech inside. When it moves it, it moves it counterclockwise. This in turn loosens the bolt holding it onto the spindle/spring.
To fix:
Remove door panel (1 torx in the inner handle area, 2 phillips in the pull handle) and a panel removal tool to undo the 11 or so christmas tree fasteners and then there are 3 metal on metal push retainers on the rear upper frame.
Once you look inside, peel back the vapor barrier (i cut mine out and replaced it with 3m material) and look in the hole. Also, remove the lower vent/flap assembly (one xmas fastener, then it'll drop out, turn 90 deg and remove).
You'll see a rod going from the lower and upper latches to the mechanism in the middle. Fiddle with the handle and see how much free play each has.
On the mechanism, you'll see a barbed end of those rods fed into some clips on the rotating mechanism. Turning the rod will not move it up and down (taking up slack). Put a flat head screwdriver tween the rod and the clip holding it in, and pop it out. Then move the rod the appropriate direction to remove the slack, and re-press it into place. wiggle again. adjust again. etc etc. You don't have to shut the door to check operation either. You can manually shut each latch 2 clicks while the door is open, and the handle will work.
After it's adjusted to your liking, pull the 10mm bolt holding the rotator on the spindle (don't let the rotator fall off, it's a bear to put that spring on), and put some loctite on the threads, then put the bolt back in.
Passenger side, do the same, however the mech rotates clockwise in there, and shouldn't loosen the bolt holding it all together.
As for the inner handle, it's cable operated to the main mechanism.
When I tore mine apart, both ends of the cable had the retaining portion of the mount snapped off (thereby the cable wouldn't stay aligned to pull the mechanism correctly).
So, I opted to just not replace em ($35 from dealer, each) as I never have passengers.
The outside handles work just fine now.
PM if any questions.
04-06-2008, 08:55 PM
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I tore my door apart and determined the upper latch is unlatching, its the bottom that is frozen. I should be able to pull the lower rod and disengage the lower latch right? That's where mine's stuck, I can't figure out how to free the lower latch, seems like I need to do it from outside thru the body gap. Its the driver's side, passenger side is fine.
04-06-2008, 09:54 PM
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Yes, there's a red clip that you move 90 degrees, then pull the rod out perpendicular to that axis. But, it'll stay shut. Even if opened, once it hits the lower pin, it'll auto shut (unless you unbolt the pin from the lower rocker area) and you'll be really stuck.
Do the wiggle thing first.. leave it connected, and watch it move while you're playing with the jamb handle. If the bar still moves, then you just need to adjust it 'up' toward the mechanism. Since the rotating assembly is the same for both latches, I believe this is your case.
I don't think it's frozen, just loosened and the bar isn't providing the required upward movement to release it.
Do the wiggle thing first.. leave it connected, and watch it move while you're playing with the jamb handle. If the bar still moves, then you just need to adjust it 'up' toward the mechanism. Since the rotating assembly is the same for both latches, I believe this is your case.
I don't think it's frozen, just loosened and the bar isn't providing the required upward movement to release it.
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04-07-2008, 12:36 PM
#8
One of my latches was rusted up and the bolts were so rusty I couldn't remove them from inside. I had to torch the bolts (3) off. Keep some water around in a squirt bottle try to save the paint and weather strip. New latch and bolts was around $90 @ DC.
04-07-2008, 10:02 PM
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Yes, there's a red clip that you move 90 degrees, then pull the rod out perpendicular to that axis. But, it'll stay shut. Even if opened, once it hits the lower pin, it'll auto shut (unless you unbolt the pin from the lower rocker area) and you'll be really stuck.
Do the wiggle thing first.. leave it connected, and watch it move while you're playing with the jamb handle. If the bar still moves, then you just need to adjust it 'up' toward the mechanism. Since the rotating assembly is the same for both latches, I believe this is your case.
I don't think it's frozen, just loosened and the bar isn't providing the required upward movement to release it.
Do the wiggle thing first.. leave it connected, and watch it move while you're playing with the jamb handle. If the bar still moves, then you just need to adjust it 'up' toward the mechanism. Since the rotating assembly is the same for both latches, I believe this is your case.
I don't think it's frozen, just loosened and the bar isn't providing the required upward movement to release it.
It sounds like I dont want to remove the red piece, I'll just end up pulling the rod out. Need to find someone with a torch. So you shoudl be able to get to these 3 bolts from the outside? I'll have to take another look.
04-08-2008, 08:25 AM
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04-29-2008, 08:12 PM
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Replacing old froze up bottom latch..
Ok, I tried everything to get the old bottom latch to let go and open up no luck, I pulled up on the latch mechinism from inside the door as hard a I could until I ripped the arm right out of the latch part! I got new latch assemblys at the dealership for $75 bucks a piece. This might help someone getting ready to replace thiers when the time comes. 1st fold rear seat up and move front seats up, you'll need all the room you can get! 2nd pull inner door panels off, theres about 10 plastic fasteners and a couple screws holding it on. 3rd Since the latch assembly has studs that go through the bottom of the door with nuts inside the door, its not possible to to get the door open and leave the latch froze to the door jamb, I put a ratchet inside the door and tightend the nuts until the studs broke off one by one.(I torched the driverside latch out and used a ratchet and hammer to get the pass. side out as described) 4th unhook the latch rod from the door handle and bend the latch arm toward the outer door skin with a hammer. 5th. Unlatch the the top latch and pull on the door, the door will slide over the old latch and eventually open, leaving the old crap latch behind on the door jamb striker. Then I used a mini sledge to beat the old latch off the striker, a torch works well too. 
Also, its possible to torch the studs and latch arm off from inside the door too, works well, its faster, but it made me nervous and my truck stinks inside from it now lol. When I got new plastic fasteners to put my door panels back on, I couldnt find any for dodge's at the parts store but there are ones for Fords that were identical and worked just fine. (huh....a ford part this is actually worth something.....) 
no luck, I pulled up on the latch mechinism from inside the door as hard a I could until I ripped the arm right out of the latch part! I got new latch assemblys at the dealership for $75 bucks a piece. This might help someone getting ready to replace thiers when the time comes. 1st fold rear seat up and move front seats up, you'll need all the room you can get! 2nd pull inner door panels off, theres about 10 plastic fasteners and a couple screws holding it on. 3rd Since the latch assembly has studs that go through the bottom of the door with nuts inside the door, its not possible to to get the door open and leave the latch froze to the door jamb, I put a ratchet inside the door and tightend the nuts until the studs broke off one by one.(I torched the driverside latch out and used a ratchet and hammer to get the pass. side out as described) 4th unhook the latch rod from the door handle and bend the latch arm toward the outer door skin with a hammer. 5th. Unlatch the the top latch and pull on the door, the door will slide over the old latch and eventually open, leaving the old crap latch behind on the door jamb striker. Then I used a mini sledge to beat the old latch off the striker, a torch works well too. Also, its possible to torch the studs and latch arm off from inside the door too, works well, its faster, but it made me nervous and my truck stinks inside from it now lol. When I got new plastic fasteners to put my door panels back on, I couldnt find any for dodge's at the parts store but there are ones for Fords that were identical and worked just fine. (huh....a ford part this is actually worth something.....)
08-13-2011, 08:01 AM
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My problem is intermittent on the driver side. When opening it after driving the truck it works just fine. But if you close it and try to open it again it will not open. With all the movement while driving something inside the door gets "lined up" to make everything work. But when it gets opened, something gets out of wack. I have not tried to open the door panel but any clue on whats happening to mine? I'd like to get some ideas before I go for it. Thanks.
08-16-2011, 07:49 PM
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I had the same problem with great sucess and no cutting torching or ruining anything. I soaked the latches as best I could for a week striaght every day. Then I pulled the inside panel loose and got the biggest pry bar i had in between the jamb and the door and just slowly eased the door out. This truck was the worst I've ever seen and had never been open for about three years so if it worked for me it might for you.