Fuel tank leaking(removing the bed)
#1
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Fuel tank leaking(removing the bed)
My fuel tank started leaking the other day, not quit sure where:
My question is: What is the best or easiest way to lift the bed up to get to the tank without using a tractors.
My question is: What is the best or easiest way to lift the bed up to get to the tank without using a tractors.
#3
Registered User
You can drop the tank easy enough too. With the tank at 1/3 or less undo the clamps holding the fuel filler neck and use a motorcycle lift jack and some 2x4's to support the tank. remove the tank straps and lower the tank until you can disconnect the fuel and electrical connectors.
Ive also found that tie down straps across the bottom work well to raise and lower the tank.
Good time to inspect brake lines, fuel lines and frame rail for rust.
Ive also found that tie down straps across the bottom work well to raise and lower the tank.
Good time to inspect brake lines, fuel lines and frame rail for rust.
#5
Registered User
You can also tilt the bed by removing the front bolts and loosening the rear bolts about half way. Disconnect the bed to frame ground first and remove the filler hose screws inside the fuel filler access door and remove the fuel cap. With 2 people you should be able to tilt the front of the bed up far enough to prop it up with a couple of 2 X 4's. You will then have access to the tank.
If you happen to dig into the tank by unscrewing the big plastic nut on top of the tank (use a strap wrench) be careful when removing this assembly because it will contain a quart or 2 of diesel and will spill when tilted.
Good luck!
John (DH)
If you happen to dig into the tank by unscrewing the big plastic nut on top of the tank (use a strap wrench) be careful when removing this assembly because it will contain a quart or 2 of diesel and will spill when tilted.
Good luck!
John (DH)
#6
Registered User
I think just taking the bed off is the easiest, like infidel said 4 guys no problem it just lifts right off. Just got to take out the tail lights, ground strap, and filler neck. We did when we put an air dog in a buddies 06 about a 20 minute job.
#7
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Location: Greenwood Lake, NY
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Which way is better depends on where the leak is coming from. If its a leak from the sender, then you can get away with just lifting the one side of the bed. If its from the tank itself then you have to remove the tank anyway so there's no point in lifting the bed. My bet would be that the return line that goes into the fuel tank is rotted. Mine was so frail that when I fixed the fuel sender it began to leak. I ended up cleaning it really well with brake clean and JB welding it. That worked fine for about 2 years until I finally got around to installing my draw straw.
John
John
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#8
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I have found that if I park with the tail end down hill with 3/4 of a tank or below it only leaks a little or not at all, but when I parked front end down hill with more than 3/4 of a tank it leaked a pint or more of fuel. So I'll look at it this weekend to find out where it's leaking from.
#9
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There are some posts on here about how to pressurize the fuel tank with 3 or 4 psi of air. Then you can spray some soapy water around to find the leak. My bet would be it is something to do with the fuel sender since the tank itself is plastic there isn't anyplace for it to rot.
John
John
#11
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1) Could be the vent on top of the module had a bug crawl in and it's not closing.
2) Plug is missing from the auxiliary feed tap
3) Ring nut is loose or the o-ring under it is bad.
4) Vent hose clamp loose or the barb it attaches to is cracked
2) Plug is missing from the auxiliary feed tap
3) Ring nut is loose or the o-ring under it is bad.
4) Vent hose clamp loose or the barb it attaches to is cracked
#12
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Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Near Mt. Pleasant, Tennessee
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Yes, you can pressurize the tank/lines. Have done it many times on equipment(ones that won't pick up fuel) Dodge/Cummins leaks. You need an air hose and blow nozzle, good rag and a second set of eyes. CAUTION Don't hold the nozzle wide open, you'll likely have more leaks than you could have imagined. Just short bursts, enough to put a little pressure on the tank. 18 years in the field fixing other peoples junk with no ill effects or damage done while doing this "shady" trick.
I've removed a bed on a 3/4 ton, 4-5 guys yeah and we got it off enough to gain access to the tank. As many fuel tanks that I have dropped, full and empty, in my opinion I could've had the tank out in 15 minutes compared to the hour plus it took plus the 4 other bodies required for help. Drop tank and it's me and the jack, don't need to ask if it can help me or when.
Good luck
I've removed a bed on a 3/4 ton, 4-5 guys yeah and we got it off enough to gain access to the tank. As many fuel tanks that I have dropped, full and empty, in my opinion I could've had the tank out in 15 minutes compared to the hour plus it took plus the 4 other bodies required for help. Drop tank and it's me and the jack, don't need to ask if it can help me or when.
Good luck
#13
Registered User
CAUTION Don't hold the nozzle wide open,
With a fuller tank it can be almost instant and will give you a diesel bath if you suddenly pull the blow gun out with the tank still under pressure.
By far the best way is to turn your tank regulator down to 5-10 psi.
I use an old fuel cap with an air port tapped into it to make it a one man job.
I like the tilting the bed method best. Makes it easy to pressure wash before you're laying under it with crud falling in your face.
Also removing fuel lines and especially the electrical connector can be a challenge under the truck, from up top you can see what you're doing.
#15
Registered User
Just found this picture that might help.
Nice to know what you're working on if you have to disconnect this stuff
when using the drop the tank method where you can't see what you're doing
Nice to know what you're working on if you have to disconnect this stuff
when using the drop the tank method where you can't see what you're doing