Fuel gage not working - whats the fix?
 

I did a search for "fuel gage", "fuel sender" and no results. How many trucks out there have non working fuel gages? Because I thought the Dodge float was a common problem and I'm looking for a fix if there is one.

I just bought my first Dodge Cummins and yes the fuelgage does not work. Also the fuel light comes on way too early. Any helpful hints or how to's would be greatly appreciated.

Thats just a normal problem with the sending units. The original coating that was put on the circuit boards did not last being immersed in fuel like the designers expected.
The new replacement ones from the dealer have been redesigned and hold up well.
I have changed too many to mention here at the shop.
My own experience, my 96 went out at 127,000 miles, it now has 868,000 and still works fine.

Not to burst your bubble, but maybe nothing came up in the search because its spelled "gauge"....? Haha, I misspell things to often now, since the invention of Spellcheck. Luckily this is a place where they won't make fun of you, like some boards.

yep, likely the fuel level sender in the tank. Done many of those things.

Thanks, would any parts store have a better upgraded part or is this a part better to get from the dealer?

Unless my eyes deceive me, there is only a potentiometer inside on the sending unit, no circuit board to worry about. It basically just sends a varying voltage to the truck's computer, and goes to the gauge from there.

A very common problem is the nylon pivot wearing out, causing poor contact on the potentiometer. Check out this site: Fuel Sender Fix for the easy fix.

True it is a potentiometer, but it is manufactured as a printed circuit with the the different fuel levels being sent back to the gauge on traces that are printed on the board.
I can post a picture of the board if you like, the traces have been worn through on most of the units I have changed, and only a few had the nylon pivot worn out.

There are a couple of cheap fixes you can do but the new senders are improved and cost about $50, dealer only.
For the amount of work it takes to lift the bed or drop the tank I'd personally rather use the improved sender than trying to fix an old one.
If you fix an old you'll more than likely be doing it again.
I haven't seen any of the improved senders fail yet.

Thanks everyone, I just bought a new sender from dealer for $54 + change. Now just have to put it in.

HotRodTodd,
No need for a pic as there are plenty in my provided link. I guess when I think of circuit board, I think of a green PCB complete with resistors, capicitors, ICs, etc. When I did one the contacts were fine (and looked to be thicker than just a printed material), it was only the nylon that had worn.

Either way, if they are that cheap to replace at $54, it's an easy choice to make.

ShaneTbolt:
Not sure if you had thought of this, but I found it was a LOT easier to just unbolt the driverside bed bolts, loosen the passenger side bolts, undo the tail light wiring, and just tilt the bed up and over, rather than messing with the fuel tank straps and dropping the tank.

Yes my plan is to move or lift the bed. Just waiting for a nice weekend because my garage is not big enough and I have to work outside.