Had some issues yesterday with my flasher relay (See this thread).
I replaced the OEM relay (said 32CP on it) with what the Autozone computer showed as a replacement for it, the 27CP. The package for the new 27CP relay said that it is good for up to 162 (or 168) watts for trailer usage. I do not know how many watts the OEM relay was rated at for trailer usage.
The first 4-5 times I used my blinker after putting in the new relay, the trailer running lights went very dim. After those initial few times, the running lights don't dim now when I use the blinker, everything is working correctly.
Anybody else experience this?
Anybody know what the OEM flasher relay is rated for in terms of watts?
My plan is buy an OEM one from the dealer and put the Autozone one in the glovebox as a spare.

Thanks,
~Rob

 

If it's in the FSM, I can't find it. I think your trailer may need to be rewired, though. I've never hooked up to anything that did that on mine. That includes my little 8 foot trailer that has only tail, brake, and turn lights, as well as my brother's 12 and 18 foot flatbeds that have the above plus 6 or 8 running lights apiece.

 

Thanks for looking Jim
Just out of curiousity, why would you think the trailer needs rewired? Everything was working fine with the OEM relay (and works fine now).
Or do you mean because of the shoddy workmanship exhibited in the plug (as described in my other thread), that I shouldn't trust the rest of it (I don't now).

~Rob

 

Mostly the latter. It could be as simple as a bad ground, though, given the dimming you mentioned. If the trailer doesn't have its own ground, it might be a good idea to give it one rather than relying on the connector. The hitch ball/trailer coupler connection is usually sufficient to make the trailer as good a ground as the truck body.

 

I have to disagree, big time. Every trailer I've seen that has crappy lighting is usually relying on the trailer ball to complete the circuit.. While it's never a bad idea to use the trailer's frame as a ground, there should always be a wired ground circuit as well. (of at least 16 gauge)

 

I've never had a problem at all using the trailer frame as a ground. I do keep the hitch ball greased up, maybe that helps. Guess it wouldn't work too well with a pintle hook and lunette ring, though...