Fears of buying a high mileage Cummins
10-11-2006, 07:56 PM
#18
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i know where you can get a 03 2500 QC 4x4 short box for 18000 it has 27000 miles on it but it has been wrecked it took a door fender headlight and i think maybe some more minor front end parts let me know
10-11-2006, 08:18 PM
#19
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there is no substitude for low miles!
motor may last for 800k + but rest of supporting parts for sure will not. posts above states very well difference between highway miles and ruff service miles.
new to CTD, but was in auto parts business for 15+ years. to survive in the parts business. you must know breakdown factors for the particular vehicle you are stocking for.
while no one has a crystal ball, it's possible to predict fairly closely when certain items will go. especially with a large database of user feedback like DTR.
as stated already, not all mileage are equal. but miles clocked are still the best way to predict breakdown.
bearing surfaces allowed to go dry results quickly in destruction. this is equally true for wheel bearings, ball joints, tie rod ends, carrier bearings, UJoints and a host of other parts containing load bearing surfaces.
ball joints and tie rod ends shot full of grease will last 200k+ miles VS same parts allowed to go dry will self destruct quickly. trend is to not include zerts for regreasing. mfg don't parts to last forever, over 100k yes, but not forever.
a old trick of experienced mechanics is to shoot moly grease into boots of joints without zerts. wheel bearings bathed in oil or grease will last 200k+ miles vs sealed wheel bearings that cannot be repacked. much shorter life.
alternators and starters can be refreshed with brushes and bushings. but for reliability sakes, it may be best to start fresh with a quality reman unit.
motor may last for 800k + but rest of supporting parts for sure will not. posts above states very well difference between highway miles and ruff service miles.
new to CTD, but was in auto parts business for 15+ years. to survive in the parts business. you must know breakdown factors for the particular vehicle you are stocking for.
while no one has a crystal ball, it's possible to predict fairly closely when certain items will go. especially with a large database of user feedback like DTR.
as stated already, not all mileage are equal. but miles clocked are still the best way to predict breakdown.
bearing surfaces allowed to go dry results quickly in destruction. this is equally true for wheel bearings, ball joints, tie rod ends, carrier bearings, UJoints and a host of other parts containing load bearing surfaces.
ball joints and tie rod ends shot full of grease will last 200k+ miles VS same parts allowed to go dry will self destruct quickly. trend is to not include zerts for regreasing. mfg don't parts to last forever, over 100k yes, but not forever.
a old trick of experienced mechanics is to shoot moly grease into boots of joints without zerts. wheel bearings bathed in oil or grease will last 200k+ miles vs sealed wheel bearings that cannot be repacked. much shorter life.
alternators and starters can be refreshed with brushes and bushings. but for reliability sakes, it may be best to start fresh with a quality reman unit.
10-11-2006, 10:49 PM
#20
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[QUOTE=Racer9;1162344]These motors are "detuned" medium duty diesels, unlike the light duty diesels in the other two brands. They are good for at least 800,000 miles, (with proper maintenance) with a valve job around 400,000. You'll replace everything on the truck before you'll wear out the motor.
Don't worry about the motor, worry about the auto trans, or clutch, or front suspension, or any one of a dozen other minor glitches.
QUOTE]
Sorry- I have to disagree here. An Automatic transmission will cost $3000 - $4000 to replace. That's not minor. Also all front ball joints run just over $1500 installed. Less $$$ but still not minor.
DOCUMENTATION is essential. I would CarFax anything I considered strongly and also have a professional look the rig over. I agree with others who have stated to avoid modified trucks, as this tends to indicate harder use in general. My truck has not ever had a fifth wheel, light towing and commuting only. At 323,200 miles, I have no questions about it's reliability. I would personally reccommend a manual transmission. Also, have you thought about a 12V 1994 - 1998 Model (until 1998.5) as they are mechanical engines with a Bosch P-7100 fuel pump. They are probably the most reliable iteration of the Dodge/Cummins.
The 24V's (98.4 - 2002) are a good engine too, they are not nearly as quiet as even a 12V. They require the addition of a fuel pressure gauge, and monitor it for a lift pump failure. (do a search on this topic.) If it fails and you keep running the engine you'll loose your VP-44 injection pump. Also an expensive item.
My personal thought is to find one between 120 - 200k for around $11 to $13,000 so you have some wiggle room for maintance and accessories. There are many good examples avalible, remember that how it's been treated may mean more than how many miles it's traveled.
Don't worry about the motor, worry about the auto trans, or clutch, or front suspension, or any one of a dozen other minor glitches.
QUOTE]
Sorry- I have to disagree here. An Automatic transmission will cost $3000 - $4000 to replace. That's not minor. Also all front ball joints run just over $1500 installed. Less $$$ but still not minor.
DOCUMENTATION is essential. I would CarFax anything I considered strongly and also have a professional look the rig over. I agree with others who have stated to avoid modified trucks, as this tends to indicate harder use in general. My truck has not ever had a fifth wheel, light towing and commuting only. At 323,200 miles, I have no questions about it's reliability. I would personally reccommend a manual transmission. Also, have you thought about a 12V 1994 - 1998 Model (until 1998.5) as they are mechanical engines with a Bosch P-7100 fuel pump. They are probably the most reliable iteration of the Dodge/Cummins.
The 24V's (98.4 - 2002) are a good engine too, they are not nearly as quiet as even a 12V. They require the addition of a fuel pressure gauge, and monitor it for a lift pump failure. (do a search on this topic.) If it fails and you keep running the engine you'll loose your VP-44 injection pump. Also an expensive item.
My personal thought is to find one between 120 - 200k for around $11 to $13,000 so you have some wiggle room for maintance and accessories. There are many good examples avalible, remember that how it's been treated may mean more than how many miles it's traveled.
10-11-2006, 11:05 PM
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just spoke with my brother tonight about a carfax report missing critical information.
a dodge diesel van he had bid on ebay showed clean with two entrys on Carfax, but Autocheck picked up four more entries related to vehicle been autioned off with 212k miles VS the 32k miles showing on speedo. also vehicle had been in an Fema disaster area in La.
please note this is what my brother experienced, your mileage may be different...
a dodge diesel van he had bid on ebay showed clean with two entrys on Carfax, but Autocheck picked up four more entries related to vehicle been autioned off with 212k miles VS the 32k miles showing on speedo. also vehicle had been in an Fema disaster area in La.
please note this is what my brother experienced, your mileage may be different...
10-11-2006, 11:12 PM
#22
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when I bought my 92 it had 192,000 on it. the truck was in good shape so I didn't even blink at the miles.
10-12-2006, 03:27 AM
#23
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I was lucky to pick up the truck in my sig for $5000,with 374,000 miles on it.It was used in Texas to haul bumper pull trailers and ALL highway miles.Owner put 299,000 miles on it from oct 1997 til june 2002.the past 75k miles were put in the last 4 years.Most everything on a Cummins {IE:Water pumps,alternators,ball joints,u-joints,rear ends..etcc} have been replaced or gone through between 200-300k miles..and mine has so I think buying one that has a body in good shape and everything working properly with even close to 400k ain't nothing.People were scared of the mileage, and it was to my benefit...and it's PAYED FOR!
On the other hand, I bought a 94' 2wd dodge in MINT condition in Texas with only 74,000 miles on it thinking cool it'll go forever..wrong! trucks with too low of mileage have alot of "rotting" parts, like seals and wear parts with rubber or greasable parts.I spent an extra $500 in stuff i didn't have to because it had TOO low of miles..like uhm, ball joints at 77,000!!! they rotted out from sitting!literally..
On the other hand, I bought a 94' 2wd dodge in MINT condition in Texas with only 74,000 miles on it thinking cool it'll go forever..wrong! trucks with too low of mileage have alot of "rotting" parts, like seals and wear parts with rubber or greasable parts.I spent an extra $500 in stuff i didn't have to because it had TOO low of miles..like uhm, ball joints at 77,000!!! they rotted out from sitting!literally..
10-12-2006, 07:30 AM
#24
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true rubber parts will rot from sitting, but parts like ball joint donot. what they do is dry out. solvents from old grease can go, resulting in a thicker grease film.
did you bother to shoot all joins full of grease before driving very far?
anytime I purchase any used vehicle. the first thing I will do is shoot all joints full of grease. this includes CV shaft if front wheel drive. then repack all bearings. change out all fluids/filters, especially tranny fluids. 80-90 hypoid is usually pretty tuff. that may wait until later.
then I find out about critical gotha's.... I may be new to CTD, but certainly not new to keeping a vehicle going.
did you bother to shoot all joins full of grease before driving very far?
anytime I purchase any used vehicle. the first thing I will do is shoot all joints full of grease. this includes CV shaft if front wheel drive. then repack all bearings. change out all fluids/filters, especially tranny fluids. 80-90 hypoid is usually pretty tuff. that may wait until later.
then I find out about critical gotha's.... I may be new to CTD, but certainly not new to keeping a vehicle going.
I was lucky to pick up the truck in my sig for $5000,with 374,000 miles on it.It was used in Texas to haul bumper pull trailers and ALL highway miles.Owner put 299,000 miles on it from oct 1997 til june 2002.the past 75k miles were put in the last 4 years.Most everything on a Cummins {IE:Water pumps,alternators,ball joints,u-joints,rear ends..etcc} have been replaced or gone through between 200-300k miles..and mine has so I think buying one that has a body in good shape and everything working properly with even close to 400k ain't nothing.People were scared of the mileage, and it was to my benefit...and it's PAYED FOR!
On the other hand, I bought a 94' 2wd dodge in MINT condition in Texas with only 74,000 miles on it thinking cool it'll go forever..wrong! trucks with too low of mileage have alot of "rotting" parts, like seals and wear parts with rubber or greasable parts.I spent an extra $500 in stuff i didn't have to because it had TOO low of miles..like uhm, ball joints at 77,000!!! they rotted out from sitting!literally..
On the other hand, I bought a 94' 2wd dodge in MINT condition in Texas with only 74,000 miles on it thinking cool it'll go forever..wrong! trucks with too low of mileage have alot of "rotting" parts, like seals and wear parts with rubber or greasable parts.I spent an extra $500 in stuff i didn't have to because it had TOO low of miles..like uhm, ball joints at 77,000!!! they rotted out from sitting!literally..
10-12-2006, 08:22 AM
#25
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My .02 look for a solid frame and body don't worry about the miles so much. If you think by buying a truck with 100,000 will insure against problems it won't. We all know these truck's have weak spots and they can certainly become expensive and show up in that milage. Prefered milage depends on your personal comfort levels. If $ are an issue and spending time under your truck is not then do like me and buy a cheap truck ($2000) if time is an issue and money is not get what you can afford. But be aware that machines break and not always on schedule. I have spent alot of time on my truck but so far only about $4000 and including Paint the total will be around $6000, then when the tranny takes a dump it will be $9-10000 but I could not find another truck in the same mechanical condition for any where near that money. You can't buy peace of mind.
10-12-2006, 03:46 PM
#26
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i bought my truck with 260k miles on the clock and didn't even think twice about it. I have known the last 2 owners of the truck and all that so it helped out alot. I had the clutch go out, but other than that the truck runs great.
10-12-2006, 05:43 PM
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I would check out this thread. Don't be scared. Buy one, drive it, take care of it, and it will take care of you.
http://www.dieseltruckresource.com/d...d.php?t=119683
http://www.dieseltruckresource.com/d...d.php?t=119683
10-12-2006, 07:58 PM
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I have a '96 with 190K and a '92 with 245K. If I put a piece of tape over the odometers, you'd never be able to guess the mileage by the condition or driving manners of either truck. It's always nice to get a lower mileage rig, but one with higher miles can be reliable as well, as long as it's been maintained and not beat to ribbons.
10-14-2006, 09:22 PM
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I know old boys with well over 500000 miles on 12vs.With mine my only complaint is the wheel bearings,Ive replaced them both once ,one twice and it sounds as if they are going again.My tranny was replaced by the old owner at 150000 and Ive got 270000 on it now.shifts good and goes through no oil.Has an upgraded tc and I change the oil and filter in it every 30000.
10-14-2006, 10:01 PM
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at what mileage did you replace wheel bearings?
I know old boys with well over 500000 miles on 12vs.With mine my only complaint is the wheel bearings,Ive replaced them both once ,one twice and it sounds as if they are going again.My tranny was replaced by the old owner at 150000 and Ive got 270000 on it now.shifts good and goes through no oil.Has an upgraded tc and I change the oil and filter in it every 30000.