I am changing the differential fluid and I let it drain overnight but im sure their is still oil around all the parts. Would it be ok to put some brake cleaner or something to clean the parts? Thanks

 

Oil left in the axles tubes also.
Have heard of some that jack up each wheel to tip the axles for draining, but ...... no need to get every drop!

RJ

 

yea, I'm not wanting to be that intense, I just want to know if I can use some oil cleaner on it

 

I usually spray out the diff with brake cleaner.

 

I give it a good cleaning with brake cleaner

 

why bother? it's not a watch.......... do it to your engine when you change oil

 

Alot more debry in the rear diff than a engine and the diff oil gets changed less often. Ill waste 3 bucks on a can to make sure all metal and any water contamination is gone.

 

Shouldn't be............. well maybe with a factory cover?

With the magnetic dip stick and drainplug magnet on my Mag Hy-Tec cover , my ring gear was spotless (and no wear evident) at 100,000 miles, when I pulled the cover..... to change clutch plates.

Also, because of racing...and because it's so easy, I change differential fluid @ 30,000 miles.

 

I didn't notice any lube coming from the axle tubes by jacking each side.

I worked in heavy transit systems for a few years. MAN was the only manufacturer that required flushing and that was ONLY if changing from 70W-90 to 75W-140 (& visa-versa).

 

When I change the oil I just take one hand and reach in a drag along bottom of housing and rake all old oil and any little bit of metal on bottom there is. The only time I find more debris than I'm confortable with is when something bad has happened. I feel that what little fine metal is left won't hurt anything since it was driven a few thousand miles with more than that laying in the bottom.

 

thanks for the input everyone. I changed it and added the posi additive and now the posi is working good.

 

Being in the oil business, I can see no chemical reason for worrying about mixing different viscocity oils/gearlubes? But flushing couldn't hurt.
I mix a high quality strait 50 wt Racing Oil with a multi-grade, Winston Cup 30 wt oil to get a 40 wt oil for my CTD, in the crankcase.

RJ

 

Does the oil you use meet CI+4 or CJ standards? If not, I would find an oil that did. For high performancee, you can always use a synthetic variant.
I think Valvoline is what is recommended/sanctioned by Cummins, for what that is worth.
Oils that do not meet the Diesel standards do not handle soot very well, among other issues.

 

No, the oil I use does not meet CI-4..... but only because part of the CI-4 criteria requires multi grade performance (low 1st number) when cold.
What I'm saying is no straight wt oil can ever meet CI-4 specs.

The diesel standards regarding soot control have to do with the additive package.... specifically the quantity and quality of detergent and dispersant additives.
My oil exceeds the CI-4 specs by a lot!
However, my oil does not meet CJ-4 specs, due to 12 TBN and too much ZDDP, which is just an indication of how strong it is.

RJ