At 80,000 miles and after reading all of these threads about so many brake problems, I was sure my brakes were getting down. I pulled into a brake shop to have them checked. RF outside pad was only 1/16&quot; thick! OK, so I already knew I must be close but, when the rear drums were pulled we found that the seals on both sides were leaking and had been for quite some time. Shoes were at least 50% but they were saturated with oil. &gt; :'( :'(<br><br>Turned both rotors and drums, new shoes and pads, new seals on left and right side rears. Ceramic on front, lifetime warranty and SuperStop on rear, also lifetime warranty. Total of $457. Doesn't seem too bad. <br><br>The thing that puzzles me is the rear seals. : I've not read of any problem with rear wheel seals in any of the threads. It is understandable that one could go - usually a factory defect. But for both of them to go seems strange. ??? My question is...is this a common problem? And do I need to keep a closer watch on these from now on?.<br><br>TIA for any words of profound wisdom<br> Stan/Bearfoot

 

I just replaced the right rear axle seal on mine. I did the left side just because. <br><br>The right rear seal was spewing fluid on the inside of my tire and inside of my fender. At least there is no chance for rust now! <br><br>I am just under your mileage.

 

Bearfoot,<br> At ~65000 miles I had the truck jumping when trying to stop. Took truck to shop, and both seals leaking on rear axle. I was told to only use Mopar seals on the rear axle, as some of the National and other brand seals would not hold up to the task. Bought both seals from a Mopar dealer, turned rotors and shoes, installed Wagner pads, shoes, hardware kits, etc, and truck stopped very smoothly. Usually you will be able to tell when backs need looked at as the rear end will start to jump when brakes applied. I pull mine every 10000 miles when I rotate the tires to check the condition of my brakes. HTH.<br><br>Tiny

 

You talking about the seal on the axle on the outside of the drum? I don't know if this is what you are talking about but I had the bolts loosen up around 120k and the axel almost fell out. I just put some rubberized sealer around the plate where the seal is and it works fine<br>confusedandnotdrunkdm01

 

Thanks, Guys, for the answers.<br><br>Ramflasher, -- I agree that when you replace the seal on one side it is a good idea to do both sides at the same time. Otherwise you may be down again soon and doing it again. Mine was not showing on the outside, however, there was a lot of grease on the inside and the shoes were thoroughly saturated.<br><br>Tiny, -- I was not getting any kind of hop, vibration, jerk or grabbing. I stop easy and am not hard on brakes and have not pulled since last fall. (Getting ready to go again 7/1).<br><br>The seals I put in were C R (Chicago Rawhide), Made in the U.S.A. Look exactly like the Mopar, even to the green silicone seal, but are actually supposed to be a better quality (withstands higher heat range, remains more flexible longer and can take the axle torque from a diesel) than Mopar. If the OE Mopar seals are giving trouble at 65 - 80m it would seem the Mopar replacement probably will also. I'm sure hoping C R is better!<br><br>I will keep a closer watch on these.<br><br>dm01, -- We are talking of the inner axle seal. If the bolts came loose on the axle endcap they were probably not torqued at the factory. <br><br>Thanks again for the replies - I'm going to watch closely this time. I rotate tires every 5m and will pull the drums, check and clean the inside each time.<br><br> Stan

 

Try checking the breather hose and related items. You might find the axle is building too much pressure.<br>Tom

 

Thanks for the idea MnTom. Will check at the Idaho Bomb party Saturday.<br><br>Love these forums......all you guys and gals have a wealth of knowledge that cannot be found anywhere else.<br><br>Stan