For the past 6 mouths I have been chasing a pulsation from my rear brakes that at times seems to be quite intense. I tryed resurfacing the drums, adjusting the rear brakes every witch way, tight, loose and in between, recently I replaced the shoes, drums and bled the brakes. and that dam pulsation is still there, any body ever have this problem or have any suggestions, other then dynamite.

 

Your rear outer wheel bearings could be worn allowing slop or they aren't torqued correctly.

 

thanks for the info I will pull it apart and put a dial indicator on the outer axle and check for play. I was woundering about that. get back to yaa with results.

 

well pulled the wheels and put a dial indicator on the hub, no problem there, also put the dial indicator on top of the outer axle and lifted the bottom with a floor jack, there was no movment in the axle on eather side, i am thinking there is a problem with the ABS because at times, like when it is cold in the morning there is no pulsation, as the vehicle warms up the pulsation starts, seems to be the worst when braking lightly on a down hill grade.

 

Pull the underhood ABS fuse and see if it stops.
Warning: This may cause the ABS and parking brake lights to stay on even after the fuse is replaced. It will take a scanner or 60 engine start cycles to clear the code that fires the warning lights.

 

I already tryed that , yes I had to use a drbIII to clear the code, I am thinking there my be a problem with that weight paportioning valve at the rear axle not allowing enough pressure to the rear brakes, thus causing the rear brakes to chatter. dont know this is a good one, have freinds at the dodge dealer that are stumped also. was thinging about by passing that valve ? I also found out that the right front spindle is bent and causing the caliper not to move freely, so I think I am going to replace that first before I do any thing else, how that spindle got bent ? let a freind at the dodge dealer replace the right front upper ball joint for me after that the right front brake has been draging, but the pulsation in the rear was there before this happened.

 

You may be surprised to find your pulsation in the front not actually the rear.

Check those front brakes real good!

I've run the gambit on these pesky brakes....

Keep us posted...

SFB

 

I am kinda thinking that your right , the front brakes could possible be the problem, that is my next task, i am going to do a complete over haul of the front brakes, right after I install the injector pump that just when out, should be here some time this week. S.F. Bob I am guessing ether you live in S.F. or like me its your home away from home. me and my wife have a place in campo cristina, at km 54 we get down there as often as my work will allow, thats about ever 6 to 8 weeks.

 

Using the parking brake to stop might indicate which end the problem is coming from.
I say might because the PB is mechanical while the foot brake is hydraulic.

 

I had a 1993 Dodge Diesel and never had problems with the rear brakes, BUT I had to have the front rotors trued up about every 20M miles. This went on until 2003 when I sold it and bought my current truck.

 

I have a similar shake in mine. I thought it was the rear but I used the "parking brake trick" and even going down a big mountain it didn't shake with the parking brake dragging. I've used that trick many times on other vehicles with great successs so I'm guessing it'll work on these too. I'm going to machine my front rotors and replace my worn front pads and see if that does it. It sure as heck feels like the back but its gotta be the front.

John

 

I think your right, I am going to do the front brakes and see what happens, right after i replace the injection pump this weekend.
Thanks for all you input, as soon as I complete the fronts and road test I will post my findings.

 

Do not remove the rotors to be machined. Find a facility that has the "on car" lathe. That's what about everyone uses anymore and it will cut the rotor true to the hub.

 

If you do it yourself be sure to replace the rubber caliper bushings and make sure those caliper bolts are new or at least look new. They need to be shiny smooth.

Also keep an eye on the caliper bolts grease.
I found that I "cooked" the grease all too often.
Once the grease gets "cooked" the brakes drag and then get hot warping the rotors.

I was lubing my bolts every 2000 miles in the summer and every 1000 in the wet winters.

This makes a big difference in brake perfomance overall.

Be sure to Check out my photos in the member gallery.
I have pics of the calipers and bolts in there.

Keep us posted,
SFB

 

Don't use regular grease. Anything that is petroleum based will cause any rubber that it comes in contact with to swell and bind the pins up. Get some caliper pin grease like Napa Sil-Glide and you'll be OK in that area.

John