the bearings are bad in the blower motor( dry) creating an over load on the resistors ...if you don't replace the blower motor assy when you replace the resistor assy, you will replace the resistors again and again until the motor runs free, i had the same thing happen to me!

First thanks everyone for helping me diagnose this problem. Anybody see any difference in part from dealer (Expensive) vs online (cheaper)...does it make a difference...thanks in advance

Not really so long as you don't buy absolutely the cheapest........ Stay with a known aftermarket name ( Standard, Borg Warner, Echelin, etc.) and you will save 90 percent of the cost with a OEM or better part.

I just lube the bearings of my blower motor when they start to get loud, still on the first resistor since 98...

A good point from patdaly, shot or dry bearings in the blower motor will burn up the weakest point in that circuit in short order, and leave you buying the resistors in family packs.

I had my original resistor burn out last winter, which took out low speed. I replaced it and 5 months later the new resistor burnt out too. Still have the original blower, so it looks like mine is following the pattern. :(

Gonna replace both the blower and resistor this time around.

I just replaced the resistor pack. What a PIA to get to. I laid in the floor and followed the wire group. It's behind a bump in the heater Assy. I could only see the edge of it with one eye. I had to feel around for the screws. They are Phillips head. You need a short Phillips screw driver. They were in very tight. I finally got one out but I couldn't get both hands up in there to guide the screw driver. Finally got the second screw out. The resistor had disintegrated. Pieces of it were caught on the opening. I finally got the remains out and cleaned the other fragments out of the heater ox.

There is a small locating pin towards the firewall, if you don't get the base located against this you will not be able to get the front screw in. I taped the screw to the driver and carefully poked it around until I hit the hole. The screws go back in very tight too.'

Once done it's nice to have blower control again.,

Byron

In my case the fan was intermittent in the first three speeds, which are controlled by the resistor. The high setting puts 12v to the motor directly and the fan always ran.

I pulled the bottom cover off the fan housing (three screws and the cover drops down and off without removing anything else) and found a lot of dead leaves that were interfering with the squirrel cage fan rotating at slower speeds. Cleaned the leaves out and the fan worked in all four speeds.

This was on a 1994.

mine was very easy to change!

my "dodge guy" always says just to change the blower motor & resistor at the same time, and be done with it.

i have found that i always have the Fan on in SC using some AC, so it is easier to change both, than to ride around without AC :(

I am having the same issues...only have high on blower motor....I replaced the resistor and still nothing. Changed out the fan switch assy and nothing changed, still the same.

Where do I go from here ? Try changing out the blower motor ? Suggestions ?

See post #22.

Changed out the motor, all was good inside the old motor, no leaves/junk. Still have the same issue, only blows on high. Changed resistor, no difference. I had already changed out the switch assy, bought it used, so I have no way of knowing if it is any good or not, although everything else works.

Are there any fuses or relays somewhere that I am missing ? I know there is a 30 amp fuse in the fuse box, and I assume that it wouldnt blow at all if it were blown. What am I missing here ?

Did you check that the #2 connector on the resistor is seated correctly?
With the resistor removed and the fan switch on any position except high there should be 12V + present on the corresponding contact.

If you have a multimeter you can also check the resistance values between #2 and the other contacts.
There should be different values, 2-4 lowest, 2-1 medium and 2-3 highest resistance.

Then you can check for continuity to ground with a test light on the pins of the connector for the resistor- one end at a power source, each pin should have one switch position to light up the test light.
If not, faulty switch or wiring to the switch.

I started tracing wires, and found that it was disconnected behind the glove box. No idea as to why the previous owner had done this, but, reconnected and so far it works. Thank you for all the help

If you mount an espar heater you tie it into the fan circuit at the connector right behind the glove box.