Blower Motor Replacement
 

Guys,

Another quick question for you. I have replaced the blower motor resistor recently and shortly after it failed again. From what I understand, this means that the blower motor is shot, and I'm wondering if there is a way to test the motor draw to confirm this is the problem. Also, where is a good spot to get a new one?

Thanks,

Jeff

I replaced my blower motor with a rebuilt unit from the auto parts store. Most rebuilt by Cardone - that probably includes store brands. You can check RockAuto and see if they have any other brands.

To check amperage draw, you need a multimeter at minimum. If it has an amperage function, you could check current draw that way, but be advised you will burn up the meter if the current draw exceeds the meter's amperage capability. It's also hard to get a truly good connection and current transfer from a spade terminal through a multimeter probe or alligator clip due to the lack of surface area in contact. The better way is to use an inductive current probe that surrounds the wire to the motor and converts amperage to DC voltage that can safely be read on the multimeter. There are also standalone clamp meters (combination current probe/multimeter) that don't require a multimeter.

Clean out your heater duct. The biggest cause of failure to the resistor pack is a lack of airflow. Usually because the heater duct is full of leaves. Next time you take the blower out, stick a small flexible vacuum cleaner hose in the hole and clean out as much as you can reach.

Cougar makes a good point. You may be amazed by the amount of "compost" in the evaporator fins.