True on some cars, This thread is pretty much only about the front brake upgrade, Mine does not have rear discs, but I'm 98% certain that the rear Park brakes on the dodge are internal brake shoes that work on the inside of the rotor, some one else might chime in to confirm the rear disc/park brake set up

 

Ok, so I did the brake cyclinder upgrade. I noticed a slight improvment. When I hit the brakes is everything supposed to fly from the backseat to the front or do I still need to adjust them more. I'm thinking more adjustment is needed but wondering if anyone else just noticed a very slight improvement? thanks.

 

I'd been awhile since I've had my rear wheels off, but memory is telling me that you are correct, fwiw.

jh

 

My '02 has rear disk and they do indeed have an internal drum for the park brake. They're way too small IMO!

Randy.

 

UPdate after one year and 28,000 miles on a 2001.5 with the big brakes pulling a 12,000 horse trailer 80% of the time.
Vast improvement , but started out with performance friction pads on all four corners which are a great pad hot but have very high pedal pressure cold and just adequate stopping add in the extra 24 lbs of iron on the bigger disk to heat up and not a good combo. Switched to duralast standard pads and much better braking cold and almost as good hot. Before you turn up your nose at the dralast pads as cheap crap, the mkd965 pad that our fronts use are actually Bendix semi metallics at half the price and usa made to boot! Add in the 22 dollar price tag and free replacement for life they are a great value in this application. High end brake pads are great on the track or on mountain switch backs where you are constamtly on the brakes and keep them hot, running down the interstate at 75mph your brakes are cold and if you have to do an emergency stop they are downright dangerous!!! They are up to operating temprature just about 150 feet after you have slammed into the car in front of you!!

 

Interesting to note. I have HAWK pads and they perform great cold or hot. They are carbon pads and seriously outperform the stock ones in all areas. They do not seem to need to be heated up. I agree that a race pad is not a good choice, this is why I wanted something that would perform better than factory.

 

jason which hawk pad are you running? I have used the performance friction carbon mets and the ones from hawkhead automotive and both were great pads hot but had poor cold brake performance.

 

They are the Hawk street pads. They have 4 flavors. A truck and a race pad both of which are more aggressive, then 2 that are a little less. Even cold they way outperform the factory pads.

 

Drudging up an old subject here, I have a question for those doing these brake upgrades to 3rd. gen. I am looking to do the same as well as changing the rear to a disc brake rear axle and was told by a tech that the brake proportiioning valve neede to be changed as well because it help a small amount of pressure on the discs just as it does with the drum brake. Anyone have any clarifiaction on this?

 

Most cars use proportioning valves on brakes to help balancing the braking power between front and rear brakes, they are sized based on the stopping performance of brakes. So the answer is yes.

Why would you put rear disc brakes on the truck. Your total gain for adding the them would be around 3-8% because the bulk of your braking is from the front. The larger front brakes will give you an approximate gain of 25-30%.

The biggest advantage of the disc brakes would be more stopping power over time because of disc brakes ability to dissipate heat compared to drum brakes.
The advantage of the drum brakes is that they are less affected by moisture and weather and the parking brake will actually hold the truck on a hill.

 

I put rear disk on my 99, from a 2001.5, in a vain hope of making things better, and they did, minimally. The money output on that would have been better spent buying a 2000+ front axle to put under it instead, as I would have seen a much bigger difference.

Chris

 

I just put the larger Chevy calipers (Napa #37337) on my rears & disabled the load sensor. It made a HUGE difference. With light to moderate pedal pressure the truck just plain stops. It doesn't nose dive anymore either. This upgrade worked well for me. Best $30 upgrade I've made - I am completely happy

 

OK, a little off of the current topic, but I installed '03 "loaded" calipers (w/ the brackets) and rotors onto my 2000. I gotta say, a HUGE difference. So worth it. I'll be towing a trailer this weekend, so I'll be extra attentive to my braking.

EDIT: I did add the larger Chevy brake cylinders a while back. Also very much worth it. I feel the combination with these and the '03 rotors and pads have improved the my braking abilities conciderablly.

 

Bringing this back for the new people on this site.

Hope everyone who has done this is pleased with the upgrade. I know I am!

 

I've read various posts in this thread, regarding whether or not I need a complete newer axle to do this front upgrade on my 97. I have read that I may only need to change out the hubs.... I have an 01 3500 front that I purchased to do this swap, however it is in need of repair ( wreck damage) Have donor mounting brackets and a shop to do the work, but if all I need to replace is the knuckles, that would be much easier! Can some one please clarify for me?