Adjusting Rear Disc Brakes on 2002
12-14-2008, 12:41 AM
#1
I wish I was as fine, as those who work the pipeline!
Thread Starter
Adjusting Rear Disc Brakes on 2002
Hey All,
Newbie here. I looked around for this and found some threads addressing adjusting rear breaks. I have disc breaks on the rear and could not find the 'star' wheel others have referenced. I did find the slack adjuster off of the e-brake, but from what I understand this is not the proper way to adjust the rear brakes on my truck. It's an 02, 2500, 4x4. Any help??
Newbie here. I looked around for this and found some threads addressing adjusting rear breaks. I have disc breaks on the rear and could not find the 'star' wheel others have referenced. I did find the slack adjuster off of the e-brake, but from what I understand this is not the proper way to adjust the rear brakes on my truck. It's an 02, 2500, 4x4. Any help??
12-14-2008, 01:48 AM
#2
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: The Great Northwest!
Posts: 1,276
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Well, you should have rear discs. So, no adjustment necessary. Now, the parking brake uses a drum brake internal to the rotor hat and that can be adjusted.
Dave
Dave
12-14-2008, 02:35 AM
#6
Registered User
inboard, look at the inside of the backing plates
you will find oblong rubber plugs recessed into the spider area.
Pull these plugs out, and adjust the e-brake shoes using the starwheels that you will see through those holes.
Or, plan B. remove the rotors, measure the inside of the e brake "drum. take that measurement minus .020". set the shoes to that spec, and re-install the rotors. That is the way that Ford used to do it on their diffs. It works, but rather time consuming.
you will find oblong rubber plugs recessed into the spider area.
Pull these plugs out, and adjust the e-brake shoes using the starwheels that you will see through those holes.
Or, plan B. remove the rotors, measure the inside of the e brake "drum. take that measurement minus .020". set the shoes to that spec, and re-install the rotors. That is the way that Ford used to do it on their diffs. It works, but rather time consuming.
12-14-2008, 02:49 AM
#7
I wish I was as fine, as those who work the pipeline!
Thread Starter
Okay, I will check it out. I am assuming that by inboard, you mean looking from the differential towards the back of the rear tires (?). I looked for those damned plugs, and could not see them. Can you get to them there plugs with the wheels on? Or is the process easier if I just take them off first?
Trending Topics
12-14-2008, 03:01 AM
#8
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 645
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Okay, I will check it out. I am assuming that by inboard, you mean looking from the differential towards the back of the rear tires (?). I looked for those damned plugs, and could not see them. Can you get to them there plugs with the wheels on? Or is the process easier if I just take them off first?
12-14-2008, 06:50 AM
#9
I wish I was as fine, as those who work the pipeline!
Thread Starter
Thanks for your help guys, I am on location pokin holes in the ground now but I will let you know how things turn out, and how many fingers I have left when I am done!!!
12-14-2008, 12:50 PM
#11
Registered User
on my 01, the e brake worked for about 3 months, then, it didn't
Sooooo, when my rear linings finally separated from the steel plates, I had to change the brakes anyway. I also changed the seals at this point, and the e-brake shoes. Those stock ones were pretty skinny to say the least.
It wasn't difficult, just a pain in the butt. And yeah, you have to look for those plugs, they are recessed a bit.
Sooooo, when my rear linings finally separated from the steel plates, I had to change the brakes anyway. I also changed the seals at this point, and the e-brake shoes. Those stock ones were pretty skinny to say the least.
It wasn't difficult, just a pain in the butt. And yeah, you have to look for those plugs, they are recessed a bit.
12-14-2008, 07:03 PM
#13
Registered User
Nah, I have never seen a (truck) rear end that was worth taking a picture of.
Like I say though, dive under there with a decent flashlight, and you will see what you are looking for, a long set of needlenose, with a 45 degree bent tip is handy to remove the plugs.
Like I say though, dive under there with a decent flashlight, and you will see what you are looking for, a long set of needlenose, with a 45 degree bent tip is handy to remove the plugs.
12-19-2008, 08:54 AM
#15
I wish I was as fine, as those who work the pipeline!
Thread Starter
[QUOTE=Or, plan B. remove the rotors, measure the inside of the e brake "drum. take that measurement minus .020". set the shoes to that spec, and re-install the rotors. That is the way that Ford used to do it on their diffs. It works, but rather time consuming.[/QUOTE]
Okay, bad deal I think. Just dove under and discovered that the dealer (Christopher Dodge in Denver) who did my first brake job adjusted the cable tensioner all the way to the bottom. Sooooo do I have to back everything off, take off the rotors and measure everything up like you said above, or can I just back off the cable adjusters, adjust the e brake drum by feel and then adjust the cables to set the foot pedal?
Or should I just go ahead and get new shoes and forget the adjustment and start from scratch.
Waddaya think?
Okay, bad deal I think. Just dove under and discovered that the dealer (Christopher Dodge in Denver) who did my first brake job adjusted the cable tensioner all the way to the bottom. Sooooo do I have to back everything off, take off the rotors and measure everything up like you said above, or can I just back off the cable adjusters, adjust the e brake drum by feel and then adjust the cables to set the foot pedal?
Or should I just go ahead and get new shoes and forget the adjustment and start from scratch.
Waddaya think?
