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I have a 2000 dodge 3500 5.9 diesel. I am looking where to get the vacuum line from vacuum pump and the vacuum lines that control the a/c, and the one that controls the cruise control. I went to the dealer and i might find them there but the guys were having a hard time because the computer doesn't show any images to the exact parts. If anybody would know the part number from dealer that would be fantastic if not where else could i get them. I tried autoparts and no luck. I would like to have junk yards last because since they are hard plastic they toast and brake easily.
This is the one for the vacuum pump.
This one is the same one that goes to the vacuum pump but this is just what's left over
This one is the one for the cruise control and that is stretched so it is broken and missing a piece already
This one is the one that goes inside the cab for the a/c control to control where you want your a/c to come out and not be on defrost all the time.
If anyone know the part number for them parts or where to get them i really appreciate it alot
I want to thank you Oliver Foster I will have you in mind for the future. I have fixed my problem the dealer called me that they had ordered one of the parts and to check if it was one of the line thats i needed. Luckily the one they ordered was the main one for the vacuum pump. The rest i found an autoparts that sold the lines all i did was connect the hard plastic and used the rubber hose just like the last pic i posted where my hand comes out. I will post a picture of the dealer part number for someone else with the same problem.
That part number gets you the main vacuum line that goes to the vacuum pump and the other one is the one for the a/c vacuum line the same one in the last picture of my first post.
Just for future reference..... The hard plastic line is simply 1/4" semi truck air brake line found at any semi truck shop, or most likely any auto parts store. Its cheap too priced somewhere around .40 to .50 cents a foot. The rest of the connections are easily replaced by using a one to two inch section of everyday vacuum hose. You can find 90* vacuum hose parts but unless you're into spending money for unnecessary parts, the 1/4" air line and $1 worth of vacuum line is all you need.
Just for future reference..... The hard plastic line is simply 1/4" semi truck air brake line found at any semi truck shop, or most likely any auto parts store. Its cheap too priced somewhere around .40 to .50 cents a foot. The rest of the connections are easily replaced by using a one to two inch section of everyday vacuum hose. You can find 90* vacuum hose parts but unless you're into spending money for unnecessary parts, the 1/4" air line and $1 worth of vacuum line is all you need.
I know this is an old post but I have a 99 Ram 2500 Cummins with heat on defrost all the time. I think it may be vacuum line related. My cruise and 4 WD work. Can anyone shed light on what size vacuum lines I need or replacement parts? The lines seem brittle and worn but not broken and I am thinking they may be leaking.
I know this is an old post but I have a 99 Ram 2500 Cummins with heat on defrost all the time. I think it may be vacuum line related. My cruise and 4 WD work. Can anyone shed light on what size vacuum lines I need or replacement parts? The lines seem brittle and worn but not broken and I am thinking they may be leaking.
Good to see this forum keeps 6 year old threads open...
As for the vacuum lines, there are only so many so checking isnt hard. You can see that the main line comes up from the vacuum pump and then branches off to a couple other small ones, which run to other various pods and also run along the firewall. Easy to diagnose vacuum leaks if you have a cheap vacuum test gauge to see if you're getting a good vacuum reading from the pump down to wherever you're testing. Again, as stated in the thread, the rubber connections are generally the spots for leaks because of drying out and deterioration. Sometimes the plastic lines can break though and I'm sure sometimes the vacuum pods themselves can fail too.
Here's a schematic of the vacuum line diagram to help...
Hi Katoom, much appreciated for the diagram. I am trying to determine what size the lines are and....if there is a section to buy that replaces the lines along with the T connectors. I took some pictures and when they are blown up, you can clearly see how deteriorated the rubber is. When I grabbed onto the rubber it was coming off on my fingers. My thought is that these pieces are so deteriorated that they may be leaking enough to cause the heat on all the time problem.
I would like to know what size these two pieces are so I can replace them. Picture has arrow pointing to th bad sections in yellow Valve
e bad sections. Advanced auto is no help on looking up vacuum hose sizes for the dodge ram.
There also looks like a valve in in between the two hoses and that says 1879 on it... Do they sell this as an entire piece to replace?
You can replace the rubber sections with pieces of regular ol' rubber vacuum line. The plastic line is I think 1/8" and if you can find it in air line then all the better because that stuff is very tough.
Just to be clear, there is no real science behind this. Cut off what you want to replace and take it with you to assure the correct sizes and fittings when replacing. You wont mess anything up because you can rebuilt the entire vacuum line for a few bucks if you want. Trying to find anything "factory" two decades after production isnt going to be easy or necessary in this case.
If my 4 WD works and the cruise control works, can I still have a vacuum issue with the heat being on all the time on defrost? Does anyone have any detailed info on where the vacuum line comes through the firewall into the cab to check that line?
I don't know where you live, but the NAPA stores near me carry 1/8" and 1/4" air brake line.
The valve may be a check valve - why cant you slice the hose and reuse the valve? I suggest getting a copy of the factory service manual (Geno's Garage has paper copies) and getting familiar with it - it's one of the most important tool you can have for these trucks.
I did find a crack in the vacuum line that runs into the cabin. I repaired that and now have function for defrost / legs / face. I still have the issue of heat on all the time. I have two blend door motors that I have put in place. They will not turn when the plug is plugged into them, but they will work on the bench with a 9 volt battery wired to the motor. The blend door will turn easy by hand, so it is not bound up.I did locate a cracked vacuum line and repaired it. Immediately I was getting the controller to work, as it can now direct for defrost / legs / face settings. That part is now fixed. The BLEND door is still not operating and cannot turn the door from hot to the cold setting.
I have two blend door motors and both test out working when I put a 9 volt battery on them and turn just fine. Once installed and the plug is put in, the motor does not turn. There are three live wires on the plug. Only the blue wire shows power from the ignition. The yellow wire does not show power and as far as I was told that wire determines the HOT/COLD setting of the door. Has anyone had an issue like this with blend door motors? All fuses check out OK and the fuse for the blend door motor is the same fuse for the blower motor which is working fine...
Does anyone have any experience or insight on the blend door motor not turning?
The blend motor runs off the rheostat temperature dial. So check if you're getting a signal from the rheostat. Other than that, I'm going to guess you're positive that the blend door is moving because its not uncommon that the door hinge breaks and you cants change from hot / cold. Everything seems like its working but in actuality the blend door isnt moving. There's an aftermarket product called "Heater Treater" to help fix that too...
I did buy the heater treater part, BUT the issue is that the motor to the blend door is not moving, when it is pulled into the wiring plug. The blend door will easily spin side to when the motor is off it by hand and can hear the door open and close with ease. The blend door motor will only work when the 9 volt battery harness that the heater treater system came with. That shows that the blend door motor will function with power to it. It does NOT work when it is plugged into the wiring plug.
I checked continuity from the plug that goes into the AC/HEATER module to the other end of the plug that goes into the blend door motor. Continuity shows no breaks in the wiring, BUT no power is going into the blend door motor from that plug....... I have tried two different blend door motors and two different AC/HEATER modules and not able to get the blend door motor to turn unless it is hooked up to the 9 volt battery. Very frustrating at this point. Is there a way to check and test the rheostat or another test for the blend door motor besides putting a 9 volt battery to it? If I can't get the blend door motor to work electrically I am wondering if I can remove the blend door motor and just the the little **** on the blend door itself by hand...and manually turn it from hot to cold?
Has anyone tested a AC/Heater module or blend door motor to determine if it is good? I may be missing something here.
You checked continuity from the rheostat connector to the blend door motor, but have you checked for power at the rheostat? And have you checked the rheostat to verify it isn't open? In addition to continuity checks, consider load testing. If you have one strand of wire making contact end-to-end (and it can be one strand in contact with another strand), you have continuity but not necessarily load-carrying capacity. Voltage-drop testing will reveal this. Are you familiar with back-probing?
You have brought up some great ideas. I would need some directions to proceed any further than the continuity checks that I have done. I do know the pin outs for the blend door- Black is ground (middle wire) and Blue is ignition and the yellow I believe is rheostat. I am not sure of the AC/Heat module.
Is there any testing to check the operation of the Blend door motor besides the simple test to check the motor if it turns? I have Lucas part # PP-GF30 for a blend door actuator.
Any specifics you can share in testing the blend door and AC/Heat module is greatly appreciated!
09-29-2015, 05:11 PM
