joem

I need to get my Goerend converter in before my core return period, plus I plan to tow on memorial weekend.
So.. I have never touched a automatic other than oil changes. I think its strait forward but can use advice!

1. remove front and rear driveline
2. remove cross member with the aid of a jack between frame
3. Remove starter and all bolts to the block?
4. Remove Dipstick, electrical and the gear lever
5. Add in what I forgot here
6. Just strap the entire tranny and t case to jack and pull it off and leave the converter stuck to the flywheel?
* do i want to change the front pump seal?
* I seat the new converter to the pump and make sure i here two spline seating drops?

blackimpala

A couple of suggestions. The cross member, you don't need a jack. After removing bolts and mount hit it straight up then back, the legs are tapered, mine came right out. You can cause damage by not taking the TC out with the transmission. In fact I think I read that after moving the trans back a few inches take a wire and go from side to side to secure the TC to the trans. Yes make sure the TC is seated in the trans, my after market TC was deeped than the stock one so while installing it I keep turning it by hand to make sure it was free of the flex plate. If you are not using a trans jack get one, life will be better.

Floyd

joem

good to know about not leaveing the old converter stuck to the plate! I have a adapter that fits on my floor jack that a friend used when we swapped in a 6 speed on his truck.... as I remember it wasnt the most robust item iv ever used, I will check harbor freight tonight.
How does one turn over a 6bt by hand? Just asking as they have so much compression they squeek the belt on shutdown

jtamulonis

use a large flat blade screwdriver through the bottem inspection plate hole, and pry the flywheel teeth to rotate the engine

95ram

Answers below in red. Even with the half dozen I've done it still takes me about 6-8 hours with brakes and cursing fits.

joem

thanks for the advice everyone! I actually have a amazing shop & Rotery lift as I fully intended to be a mechanic until I started makeing better money in my what was intended to be a temp job in I.T.- makes my place pretty popular with friends and mechanicly retarted coworkers.
I have done a few heavy trans such as my friend who pulled out his NV4500 and put a 6 speed into his 2001 ISB, talk about a PITA.

joem

got the drive lines pulled, skid plates off and most of the cross member bolts pulled-- I can see that this will be alot of work. Where is the best place to remove the trans cooler lines? I have lots of dirt and greese to be carefull of. Do I have to remove all of the transfer case linkage or is there a majic remove one part and let the rest hang?

joem

If a Mod can move this thread over to the 12v drivetrain that is where I indended to start this thread, thats what I get for posting after midnight
Anyway's Check out this bent cross member! I had to use a pipe wrench and a 4' cheater to bend it back enough to get to the bolts as it was fully peeled back over itself.... wonder if this is the creek and pop I here when in parking lots?

95ram

What in the world did you hit? As for the trans lines, I talk them of at the trans. Make sure you have a wrench on both nuts so you're not turning the one in the trans. If you have a lot of grease zip tie a rag over the line. Once the lines are disconnected from the trans they should move enought so you dont have to disconnect them from the cooler on the motor.


You'll have to disconect the kickdown cable and gear selector. They should both pop off. There should be a rod that sticks out that everything pivots on. I remove the 3 10mm bolts in the wheel well (outside of the frame) and slide the rod outwards. There might be an E clip that you have to remove also, I can't remember off the top of my head.

joem

Yup I have that bent cross member and the drivers side of the truck sits a inch lower than the passanger side... the previous owner said that the previous owner was wasted, blew a turn and landed in a river, drove up the river (in late august) in shallow water to a boat ramp and got out- then drove home. This explains the bent cross member, and wasted tie rod ends, and front berrings, borken dana 70 axle, bondo under crappy paint and the cheap $2k price of the truck

MrKen

you mentioned skid plates. Did you have them made? or find them somewhere?

joem

Oh, I was just refering to the tiny thing that covers the T case

joem

been working on the trans for a hour or so after work each day, the worst is all the linkage and junk on the drivers side! SO here is the old Torque converter, does it look stock? I also only found 4 quarts in the pan and only 3 in this converter- where is the rest of the oil hidden at?

blackimpala

No, It doesn't look like my stock converter. My was a dull metallic silver and the tabs that the bolts threaded into were welded on.

Floyd

joem

had a good 3 hours of spare time to button it back up today. got all but the &^^%$# cross member done, sillicon spray on all the vacuume lines and greese on all the linkages to make things happy The cross memeber though, wow even with a bottle jack and 4x4 its not even close, im putting it in from the back of the truck, as the taper allows but the cross member is still a good 1" wider than the frame Im wondering if its sprung from that tear as seen in the above pict