2001 dodge cummins
I am going to look at a 2001 dodge 4X4 quad cab with the cummins tomorrow evening and wanted some advise. What are the most important things I need to visually look for and what are the important questions to ask. This truck looks really clean with 118,000 miles. It is loaded with heated leather seats, heated mirrors, and all interier looks new. The truck has new ball joints, front brakes, rotors, batteries and wrangler tires. The truck has no goose neck hitch, only pulled bumper pull trailer with 35 HP tractor. His asking price is $16500 and he is the original owner with all paperwork and incoices. Is this a good deal?
Sounds pretty good if alls true. Make sure the tires are "E" load range. Auto trans may be achilles heel if not upgraded and towed hard. VP44 causes trouble for some buyers decision but haven't had trouble w/ mine...yet! Price is right. Welcome to the DTR! Kurt
first thing i would replace is the lift pump. I had trouble with mine and thats what killed my VP44. But other then that man I love my truck it has been a good truck thats for sure. Hey good luck with the truck and it does sound like a very good deal. Welcome to DTR!
Lee Mtz
Lee Mtz
I am going to look at a 2001 dodge 4X4 quad cab with the cummins tomorrow evening and wanted some advise. What are the most important things I need to visually look for and what are the important questions to ask. This truck looks really clean with 118,000 miles. It is loaded with heated leather seats, heated mirrors, and all interier looks new. The truck has new ball joints, front brakes, rotors, batteries and wrangler tires. The truck has no goose neck hitch, only pulled bumper pull trailer with 35 HP tractor. His asking price is $16500 and he is the original owner with all paperwork and incoices. Is this a good deal?
I would say it's a fair deal if it's really how you described it. Look under the drivers side on the engine block and see if you see "53" stamped on it. If it does, run. Also, do the key on,off,on to see if there are any codes thrown. You might want to hook a FP gauge to see if the lift pump is dead. If it has disk rears it's an 01.5. There are more things to look for but these would be the major one IMO.
I think the price is fair. I would buy it for this price in good condition. Look if he installed the FP gauge or if the fuel system has been upgraded, or if it still has a stock LP. The mileage is not bad in my opinion.
-P
-P
I am going to look at a 2001 dodge 4X4 quad cab with the cummins tomorrow evening and wanted some advise. What are the most important things I need to visually look for and what are the important questions to ask. This truck looks really clean with 118,000 miles. It is loaded with heated leather seats, heated mirrors, and all interier looks new. The truck has new ball joints, front brakes, rotors, batteries and wrangler tires. The truck has no goose neck hitch, only pulled bumper pull trailer with 35 HP tractor. His asking price is $16500 and he is the original owner with all paperwork and incoices. Is this a good deal?
where do you live. maybe someone would be willing to check it out if they live close enough! also can help in the future if you need anything when you get your new truck!
The other guys are right about the 53 block. Be sure to check that. Front left side of block just above the oil pan. Look for a 53. Its pretty obvious. Any other casting numbers are fine, but that 53 has caused some head/heartaches for fellow members.
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Look for the 53 block, but it isn't overly common on 01's. If it has the rear disks, you will be very happy! My truck stops so much better with rear disks! Do the code check on-off-on-off-leave on, and read the info in the digital odometer window. If P0216 comes up, figure on replacing a VP-44 sooner than later, and upgrading the fuel delivery system. I bought mine with higher miles than that, with a gooseneck ball already installed and the experience marks in the bed, indicating some towing abuse. I love the truck and think you will too!
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Congrates on a sellar buy!!!!! Welcome to DTR. And of course welcome to the exciting and smoky world of diesel power!!!!!!!!!!!!
What's next you ask? Gauges. The very first upgrade should be a pyro, boost, tranny temp and fuel presure gauges. Keeping an eye on what your truck is doing is the number one priority from this point on. Then you can start doing mild upgrades. Well, thats intill you upgrade the tranny.....
What's next you ask? Gauges. The very first upgrade should be a pyro, boost, tranny temp and fuel presure gauges. Keeping an eye on what your truck is doing is the number one priority from this point on. Then you can start doing mild upgrades. Well, thats intill you upgrade the tranny.....
Run! Run far, far away from this place...unless you're dissatisfied with the the overly large size of your wallet and wish to get rid of large amounts of cash.
Just kidding.
First step would be to get gauges. I recommend EGT/Boost and Fuel Pressure (Transmission Temp as well if you have an auto). At the VERY least a fuel pressure gauge to monitor your lift pump output.
Then figure out what your goals are for the truck and we can help you spend some money.
Just kidding.
First step would be to get gauges. I recommend EGT/Boost and Fuel Pressure (Transmission Temp as well if you have an auto). At the VERY least a fuel pressure gauge to monitor your lift pump output.
Then figure out what your goals are for the truck and we can help you spend some money.
you better buy a fuel pressure gauge. even if you dont plan to mod it. I would go ahead and get a pyrometer also. maybe a trans temp gauge. fuel pressure is a bad issue on these vp44 trucks like said above. other than that it should be a good truck for you. its a cummins and there awesome!
Welcome to the Gang!
Look up threads that describe installation of a fuel pressure gauge on a 2001 Ram. There are subtle differences in how this is done on a 98.5 and later trucks. You will have to install FP on the bottom banjo bolt of the fuel filter (best place IMO, because it will not interfere with anything else).
You can get electric or mechanical gauge. If you choose mechanical, do not install an isolator, which is an unnecessary and expensive part that will soon fail anyway.
-P
Look up threads that describe installation of a fuel pressure gauge on a 2001 Ram. There are subtle differences in how this is done on a 98.5 and later trucks. You will have to install FP on the bottom banjo bolt of the fuel filter (best place IMO, because it will not interfere with anything else).
You can get electric or mechanical gauge. If you choose mechanical, do not install an isolator, which is an unnecessary and expensive part that will soon fail anyway.
-P
Congrats on the purchase. First thing is the FP gauge, between the Fuel Filter and VP44. If the Lp dies, it will kill th VP.
Second, highly recommended, get a Vulcan big line kit, or something similar. This moves the LP back by the fuel tank and gets rid of all the funky banjo bolts in the stock lines. These have been considered to be fuel contraints to the VP44. Also, moving the LP off the motor eliminates heat & vibration. Also, if you have to change the LP after this, it can be done in 10 mins., easily.
Next, I would get (2) Cummins Campaign pumps, $65 each. One for when your LP fails, whicch it will, and a spare.
Finally, if you have the time & money, get the other gauges, pyro & boost. Informative, but not as necesary as the FP gauge.
I think a big brush guard that has protection down to the spoiler, is also a good investment. The Radiator, intercooler, AC evap. are worth about $7k or so. The bumpers are decorative. Any slight hit to the front can be very expensive . I got a tubular Westin type, does not weigh too much.
The last thing you need is a 300lb bumber on a front end that already has a 1000lb motor.
Lots of toys you can add, but, for the money, an improved Air intake and a 4"
exhasut system will improve efficency, mileage and run cooler.
With the Auto, I would not add more than an Edge or smething similar, if you must. More HP & torque help the auto to break quicker.
Enjoy the Dodge Cummins!
Are you going to tow anything?
Good Luck!
Second, highly recommended, get a Vulcan big line kit, or something similar. This moves the LP back by the fuel tank and gets rid of all the funky banjo bolts in the stock lines. These have been considered to be fuel contraints to the VP44. Also, moving the LP off the motor eliminates heat & vibration. Also, if you have to change the LP after this, it can be done in 10 mins., easily.
Next, I would get (2) Cummins Campaign pumps, $65 each. One for when your LP fails, whicch it will, and a spare.
Finally, if you have the time & money, get the other gauges, pyro & boost. Informative, but not as necesary as the FP gauge.
I think a big brush guard that has protection down to the spoiler, is also a good investment. The Radiator, intercooler, AC evap. are worth about $7k or so. The bumpers are decorative. Any slight hit to the front can be very expensive . I got a tubular Westin type, does not weigh too much.
The last thing you need is a 300lb bumber on a front end that already has a 1000lb motor.
Lots of toys you can add, but, for the money, an improved Air intake and a 4"
exhasut system will improve efficency, mileage and run cooler.
With the Auto, I would not add more than an Edge or smething similar, if you must. More HP & torque help the auto to break quicker.
Enjoy the Dodge Cummins!
Are you going to tow anything?
Good Luck!







