1998 12 Valve Headlights not working.
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1998 12 Valve Headlights not working.
My headlights quit working right about a year ago, and I haven't been driving it. Im going to upgrade to new lights. But first I need to get them working. They only work when I hold the dimmer switch back. Where would be a good place to start? Thank you.
#2
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The headlight switch..... inspect the connections on it and the pigtail for melted or burnt spots. If the harness pigtail checks out then I’d try a new headlight switch
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Will Willard (06-17-2019)
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That is correct.....the headlight switch on the dash. When my headlight switch shorted out that’s how I had to make the lights work by holding the dimmer switch back. After taking it apart I found a melted connection on the headlight switch. Hopefully once you take it out it’ll be an obvious place that has burnt or melted. Take your time when removing the dash bezel or you’ll end up with a broken one because as you probably already know, the dash and bezel become brittle over time. A wide blade putty knife works good for popping the dash bezel away from the dash
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Will Willard (06-30-2019)
#5
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Ya I'd get a new headlight switch and swap it in.
My harness / plug was all burnt and melted, but when I plugged in my new headlight switch the headlights started working again.
My harness / plug was all burnt and melted, but when I plugged in my new headlight switch the headlights started working again.
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Will Willard (06-30-2019)
#6
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The headlight switch and wiring are a known weakness on these trucks. When I bought my truck in 2007 (used, obviously), one or two of the spade terminals on the switch itself were loose, and a couple of the "dividers" on the plug were melted and misshapen. BWD (formerly Borg Warner) makes a good replacement switch that includes the pigtail. If you replace the pigtail, use a good ratcheting crimper (not those cheap crimper/stripper combos on the parts store electrical aisle) and butt splices with heat-shrink tubing. If you can, get a "relay harness" that runs the headlights off the batteries and only uses the headlight switch to trigger the relays - take as much of the load off the headlight switch as possible.
You said you are going to upgrade the lights - what are you going to?
You said you are going to upgrade the lights - what are you going to?
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Will Willard (06-30-2019)
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That is correct.....the headlight switch on the dash. When my headlight switch shorted out that’s how I had to make the lights work by holding the dimmer switch back. After taking it apart I found a melted connection on the headlight switch. Hopefully once you take it out it’ll be an obvious place that has burnt or melted. Take your time when removing the dash bezel or you’ll end up with a broken one because as you probably already know, the dash and bezel become brittle over time. A wide blade putty knife works good for popping the dash bezel away from the dash
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#8
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While you are working on the headlights- please consider installing a relay kit.
You'll find posts about this on here. Much more light for very little money and time.
And longer lived headlight switch too.
You'll find posts about this on here. Much more light for very little money and time.
And longer lived headlight switch too.
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Will Willard (06-30-2019)
#9
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That’s good news. Glad you got her. What’s the issues with the a/c? Freon leak? Controls not working?
If it’s controls not working you might start checking all vacuum connections
If it’s controls not working you might start checking all vacuum connections
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The headlight switch and wiring are a known weakness on these trucks. When I bought my truck in 2007 (used, obviously), one or two of the spade terminals on the switch itself were loose, and a couple of the "dividers" on the plug were melted and misshapen. BWD (formerly Borg Warner) makes a good replacement switch that includes the pigtail. If you replace the pigtail, use a good ratcheting crimper (not those cheap crimper/stripper combos on the parts store electrical aisle) and butt splices with heat-shrink tubing. If you can, get a "relay harness" that runs the headlights off the batteries and only uses the headlight switch to trigger the relays - take as much of the load off the headlight switch as possible.
You said you are going to upgrade the lights - what are you going to?
You said you are going to upgrade the lights - what are you going to?
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In the past is was freon. Then there was a vacuum leak. Then just recently it seams its just not blowing cold. And I was going to try to add freon and I never heard the ac clicking in or cycling. So I was afraid to add any. Is there a fuse Under the hood I need to check?
#12
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In the past is was freon. Then there was a vacuum leak. Then just recently it seams its just not blowing cold. And I was going to try to add freon and I never heard the ac clicking in or cycling. So I was afraid to add any. Is there a fuse Under the hood I need to check?
#13
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I've posted some instructions for a DIY relay kit here- If you are shopping around it will be less than 50 US$ and less than 3 hours of your rime- and more than double your light output.
If you add a sports headlight conversion, some 80/100W bulbs you will have "weapons grade lighting" on these older trucks.
If you add a sports headlight conversion, some 80/100W bulbs you will have "weapons grade lighting" on these older trucks.
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