1996 2500 ball joints
#1
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1996 2500 ball joints
250K miles, need ball joints.
Searching net, I see complete upper control arms with ball joints and also just the BJ itself.
I'd rather not disassemble the whole control arm if I don't have to (I don't, it's just the BJ that needs servicing)
So my question to those that read, can I simply replace only the BJ or typically the control arms gets beat up too much in process where you must replace whole control arm w BJ?
Thanks !
Searching net, I see complete upper control arms with ball joints and also just the BJ itself.
I'd rather not disassemble the whole control arm if I don't have to (I don't, it's just the BJ that needs servicing)
So my question to those that read, can I simply replace only the BJ or typically the control arms gets beat up too much in process where you must replace whole control arm w BJ?
Thanks !
#2
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Usually they sell the control arms for those applications that have a high possibility of being rusted away. I would inspect for rust scale and if it is, replace arm and joint as a unit. The price really isn't that much worse to have the peace of mind.
#3
Registered User
The upper BJs are not that difficult to replace - no reason for the control arms to get beat up during the process. Are you talking about doing uppers only, or all of them?
If the bushings are still decent and the arms aren't rusted, I would just replace the BJs. If the arms are rusted or the bushings are doubtful, then going the replacement-arm route may be worthwhile.
If you are doing the lowers and planning to use a ball-joint fork to separate the ball joint from steering knuckle, be sure your fork will go over the ball joint stud at the base of the stud. I had to grind out the inside of my ball joint fork to clear the stud.
If the bushings are still decent and the arms aren't rusted, I would just replace the BJs. If the arms are rusted or the bushings are doubtful, then going the replacement-arm route may be worthwhile.
If you are doing the lowers and planning to use a ball-joint fork to separate the ball joint from steering knuckle, be sure your fork will go over the ball joint stud at the base of the stud. I had to grind out the inside of my ball joint fork to clear the stud.
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#8
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By that logic, there is a 50/50 chance of shearing all the bolts in the engine mounts and you should weld the engine mounts to the frame and block.
I would only weld ball joints to the control arms is if there is not sufficient interference fit between the ball joints and the control arms, and I couldn't remedy the problem correctly and quickly and had to have the truck drivable. There are oversize ball joints available (see the ball joint article on Geno's Garage site). If those don't do the trick, then its time to replace control arms anyway. If the OP doesn't have a welder, and the ball joint/control-arm fit is too loose the keep the ball joints in place, how is he going to get the truck to a welder? other than tearing the front end apart, probably losing the alignment settings, etc - may as well by control arms anyway in that case...
I would only weld ball joints to the control arms is if there is not sufficient interference fit between the ball joints and the control arms, and I couldn't remedy the problem correctly and quickly and had to have the truck drivable. There are oversize ball joints available (see the ball joint article on Geno's Garage site). If those don't do the trick, then its time to replace control arms anyway. If the OP doesn't have a welder, and the ball joint/control-arm fit is too loose the keep the ball joints in place, how is he going to get the truck to a welder? other than tearing the front end apart, probably losing the alignment settings, etc - may as well by control arms anyway in that case...
#9
Registered User
know as how I would weld the BJs. The press fit and spring clip should work just fine.
But If the tops have 250K on them then the bottoms do too... Replace all 4 and save yourself the time later.
I did mine. The only advice I can give is to find a place to rent / borrow a hydraulic press, or like I have a HUMONGOUS C clamp. You won't be able to beat these into position like you can on little passenger cars, I know I tried and buggered up one joint. My son reminded me as I was swearing and banging away about the C-clamp I had.
Once I set it up the thing pushed in smooth as silk and the split ring popped right into place. I noticed a marked improvement on tracking with the 4 new joints. Then I replaced all the tie rod ends and it drives like new.
But If the tops have 250K on them then the bottoms do too... Replace all 4 and save yourself the time later.
I did mine. The only advice I can give is to find a place to rent / borrow a hydraulic press, or like I have a HUMONGOUS C clamp. You won't be able to beat these into position like you can on little passenger cars, I know I tried and buggered up one joint. My son reminded me as I was swearing and banging away about the C-clamp I had.
Once I set it up the thing pushed in smooth as silk and the split ring popped right into place. I noticed a marked improvement on tracking with the 4 new joints. Then I replaced all the tie rod ends and it drives like new.
#10
Registered User
I recently read an article it would be wise for the OP to see before purchasing ball joints, or welding them in.
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