12v Or 24v
 

What is better? I am going second gen and i just want some insight before i buy.

I haul a 4200lb car long distances and go off road.
I am looking at a 98 4wd quad cab short bed with 80k miles

There is another thread just like this one in performance sec. i think. Are you already looking at the 98 or is that what you want?

im looking 94 - 99 4x4 with the back doors that open. I need as much room as possible

98 and 99 are the only years in your search that have a quad cab option. If you want a 12v, you are searching for the holy grail, as the 12v was only around for half of the 98 model year. As for the 12v 24v thing, you know how easy it was to fix that pesky shutdown solenoid on your 1st gen, right? Remember that when looking at a 24v....

Look at this post:

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...d.php?t=123911

well i read it and everyone wants or has a 12v.. so i guess the 24 has a bad pump and bad block???? well i still dont know? I have been keeping my eyes peeled and dont want to jump into this. I am looking at a 4x4 2000 2500 in michigan 116,000 he wants 15 but i am gonna offer around 13,500. I am planning on driving across country soon and dont want to do it in the first gen. plus i have a family and would like seats in the back lol.

whats the difference btween a 12v 24v gas mileage wise?
do i have to wory about the pump with a exhaust and intake mod only?
i am not going to do alot to it. I just want to get descent gas mileage and go off road and have a short bed with 4doors. My wife prefers 00 and newer compared to 94-97 so i have to get something she will drive to. I have to consider her opinion cause its "ours" not mine

http://www.autotrader.com/fyc/vdp.js...=2&cardist=511




this is the link for the truck im looking at.. what do you think?

As someone else pointed out, both of these engines are capable of producing an amazing amount of power, and both of these engines will last hundreds of thousands of miles, if you take care of them. I have one of each, and here is my two-cents worth of opinion:

The 12-valve motor is a fully mechanical engine, once you start it, it only needs fuel to run. 12-valved trucks do have a computer, but it only controls the transmission shift points, cruise control, alternator, heater grids, etc., not the fuel management system. You can modify a 12-valve, to produce more power, at a cost of zero to a few hundred dollars, depending on how mechanically inclined you are -- no software or computers to mess with. The biggest problem for a 12-valve is what is commonly referred to as the Killer Dowel Pin (KDP) – this is a design defect which allows a locating dowel pin to fall into the front gear train causing significant and expensive engine damage. However, if caught in time, the KDP problem can be easily fixed for under $50. The Bosch P7100 fuel pump on these engines is very reliable, very adjustable, easy to modify. Overall the 12-valve is a great motor. One down side is that these 12-valved trucks are getting harder and harder to find in decent shape, especially if you want the standard 5-speed transmission.

In contrast to the fully mechanical 12-valve, the 24-valve engine is a fully electronically controlled engine with multiple computers. These engines can also put out a mind-blowing amount or horsepower and torque, but since these are electronic engines you will need to add software programmers and piggyback fuel control boxes, which run from $500 to $1000, each. However, unlike a 12-valve in which you get full power all the time, with a 24-valve you can install a fuel control box that will allow you to adjust the power on the fly – from stock to +200 horsepower with a touch of a button – a very nice feature. The 24-valve engines had three major issues, 1) the manufacturing defects of the 53-block, mostly in the 1998.5 to 2000 trucks , 2) bad lift pumps from the factory, and 3) bad injector pumps (VP44). You can solve the bad lift pump problem by replacing them as they go bad, about $64-180 for a new pump, or you can install a high performance lift pump for $400-600, and never worry about it again. The Bosch VP44 injector pump on these 24-valve engines also suffers from poor engineering design, and is no where as reliable as the P7100 pump on the 12-valve motors. Most people that own a 24-valve with have to replace the VP44 at least once in the truck’s life; the cost is $1000-1300 for a rebuilt pump.

The last thing I want to point out is the platform that these engines are mounted too. The 24-valvers are newer trucks which are much more refined that the older 12-valvers. My 01 24-valve rides, drives, handles, brakes much, much better than my 96 12-valver. One particular example is the brakes, on my 96 these brakes suck! In contrast, the brakes on my 01 work flawlessly and stop the truck on a dime. Both Most people that own a 24-valve are happy with it. Even if you get a truck with the 53-block, the odds are in your favor that you will never have a problem with it, lots of people race and tow with a 53-block. As far as the lift pump on 24-valve, with $400 you can get an aftermarket pump that should last a lifetime. As far as the VP44 injection pump, it can last anywhere from 30k miles to 250k miles, and again the $1000 replacement cost is a once in a lifetime cost for most owners. Both trucks are great, that’s why I own one of each, but the 24-valved trucks are more modern and refined, while the older 12-valve trucks are simpler to work on and can be more reliable.

Just my opinion, I like them both. [roll]

thanks for the info.... I personally own a 2005 srt4 hence the name apocalypse"SRT" well anyway.
I dont see it being bad working with the computer. I have a aem ems in my srt so i can control each signal out of my pcm.i.e. fuel pulse ratio...map voltage...etc.etc. There is alot of tuning to go with the newer vehicles but it can be achived and you can perhaps accomplish a bit more with the tuning and vehicle being more refined. besides i work with computers all day so whats another one?

did anyone take a look at that truck? what do you think of it and pricing?

Is the trailer lifted? Does the 4200# car hang in there pretty good during them off road excursions[duhhh] [laugh] Just kidding.

12v or 24v s'all good depends on your preference - you'll probabley get a 50/50 response base.

Enjoy whatever you end up buying.

[laugh] yeah i always see these chevy and ford comercials of there trucks barely making it up a huge hill while pulling a trailer thats flying around in the back.[laugh] so why not do it in a dodge[duhhh] like a rock my dodge shall be built ford tough [yuk]

i wouldnt be cought dead in a chevy or ford. mopar or no car:D