"I think the next big move should be a tranny upgrade and the other's should all be checked out."

Wow! You spend thousand of dollars on a new transmision first? I can only dream to have a bank account like that someday. Maybe when the kids are gone to college and I can work for myself full time instead of working 40 hours a week to make someone else rich.

 

Just one little comment after reading the later posts. You cannot damage the engine by 'redlining' it. The computer willonly fuel the engine to 2700 rpms or thereabouts. The engine can be turned to approximately 4200 rpms during engine braking.

OK, one more. It can be difficult to see the oil and debris blown into the radiator without removing the radiator. I know this because that is how I found mine.

 

Well we have the weight, the gear, the grade......but the poster "isn't sure" what gear the trans was in or if it was locked up. Pretty important info can lie in that answer.....wrong gear for the load back in 99 and the tire size isn't helping you IMHO. From an "ease on equipment" standpoint I believe what you want to acheive is to be able to pull your load OD off, torque converter locked, and able to maintain your rpms in the 2200-2400 range. True, you could also go the lockup switch route, but running the trans in second, torque converter locked up, pulling your 11K trailer will be transfering alot of torque through your planetary gear sets in your trans.

 

I have a manual so I don't know about the tranny stuff, but I do have a 99 that pulls a 8,000lb horse trailer for long hauls. Mine would be fine til I had a long pull on a grade. Had to pull over more than once (did NOT shut if off), changed the clutch fan and Tstat, turns out there was a TON of gunk built up in there. Radiator was fine, no cracks or leaks. Passed a log truck on the same grade this year where i was sitting on the side of the road last year.

 

The fan clutch engaging should be a very noticable change in engine sound, especially if the windows are up with the A/C running. Typically my fan kicks in at around 200-205F and kicks out around 190-195F. The normal engine running temperature would be 180-185F.

The fan performance is very predictable and the temperature drops right down when the fan is on. I generally pull most long grades trying to hang in the 2000-2300 RPM range and the fan would be more or less cycling on and off at about 75% of the time off.

If it were me, I would take a very good look at the radiator still. Use a mirror from the fan side and a strong flashlight shining from the front to really see in there.

Jim

 

I just install a universal electrical fan in the front that work with the air conditioner , I lowered the temperature a lot,but remember to check the direccion of the blow .

Best regards.

 

I would rec that you put an extra trani cooler on it and Run AmsOil in everything. It will lower oil temps 10 to 15 degs. Not only will it run cooler but it will get better fuel mlg...

 

another consideration would be to check the coolant... when was the last time the cooling system was flushed... also, same with tranny fluid... noticed your sig has "285/75/15"... is the 15 a typo?

 

If the breather bottle was removed, I'd definitely extend the breather hose so it terminates well below the fan shroud area. I bet if you removed the radiator to have a look, you'd be shocked by how black the fins are that you can't see while it's installed.

If it was me, I'd also throw in a new genuine Cummins thermostat too, just because it's been revised a couple times, it's a wearing part, and now's the time to do it, before it leaves you stranded.

 

It was in 2nd gear, unlocked, aboute 2100 rpm.

 

I was towing with my 01, I've towed with both an auto and a stick, both 01 CTD's, and I had a lot easier time with the manual, keeping my temps down, but it can be done with the auto. Again, like most of the advice on this topic, shift down to second, and keep the RPMS up around 22-2400, and that will help a lot, slower speed, the engine is spinning faster, producing more torque and more airflow than you'd get from trying to keep it in a higher gear. Also, instead of having to pull over, and shut down, there's a guy on the IdahoTurboDiesels forum that sells manual high idle kits, that work great. I've got one installed on my 01. That way, if you do need to pull over to cool down, you can turn on the high idle switch, and let the engine cool faster. The kits are really cheap, about 55 bucks, and they're really easy to install. I'd recommend it, since the dealer high idle flash can only be used if all the conditions are met for it.

 

Thanks for the good info, everyone. I think I'll pull the radiator or at the very least, unbolt it and pull it back as suggested to check it out. I did look in between the condenser and the radiator and saw what appeared to be some caked oil but it didn't appear very heavy.. but who knows what's lurking in between the radiator fins.

Mike.