Who's got a Mechanical Belt Driven Lift Pump System?
08-22-2010, 10:10 AM
#31
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The return lines are metal, I think steel, so why not just add some heat syncs to them. Similar to a radiator? or better yet like a hot water baseboard heater? Wouldn't be hard to add it under the truck, and remove it in the winter. Heck, you can get them pre-built, no moving parts either.
Never seen professional ones, but it seems as though ambient temperature is not gonna ever peak out above 120* that right there is a 30 degree temp differential for the heat sink to pull heat out. Probably would not need more than about four feet on the return line.
If a guy wanted to, you cold make a 'summer' hard line, and hook it up once temps got above say 50 degrees. Then switch back over for winter.
The only time you wold not benefit from the air stripping heat is when stopped in traffic, but the tank of fuel would supply a rather large reservoir of heat capacity and you would still get some benefit from the heat sync.
Just a thought.
Never seen professional ones, but it seems as though ambient temperature is not gonna ever peak out above 120* that right there is a 30 degree temp differential for the heat sink to pull heat out. Probably would not need more than about four feet on the return line.
If a guy wanted to, you cold make a 'summer' hard line, and hook it up once temps got above say 50 degrees. Then switch back over for winter.
The only time you wold not benefit from the air stripping heat is when stopped in traffic, but the tank of fuel would supply a rather large reservoir of heat capacity and you would still get some benefit from the heat sync.
Just a thought.
I strongly believe a "FUEL COOLER" is THE answer to ALL VP44-CPU problems!
Just THINK ABOUT IT for a second,....the VP44-&CPU are FUEL COOLED!
COOLING your VP44 from the problem starter: HOT FUEL
Cool the FUEL and actually COOL your vp44 from INSIDE OUT!
Sooo,....cooling your FUEL actually makes ALOTTA SENSE,.....don't it?
Even when stuck in traffic,...especially with a FAN assisted FUEL COOLER you would still have a huge benefit over a stock truck having NO-fuel cooler at all!
Infact,.....in theory,....(if you'll choose to have a race) pending on ambient temps -operating area - and 2 identical/equal trucks apart from 1 having a Fuel Cooler and the other doesnt,....you'll be able to BEAT the STOCK truck WITHOUT FUEL COOLER - performance wise - in a heartbeat!
As far as winter and summer goes,.....the easiest quickest way is to make a bypass valve.
But then again,....each vehicle should operate BETTER with cooler fuel,...sooo cooling your fuel even in winter time should even then have an advantage!
Strange thing is though,...that NOT ONE "Diesel-Performance-parts-Dealer" is actually offering FUEL COOLER packages!
Big Hole in the VP44-CPU problem Market Right There Aftermarket Guys!
As for me,....I'm still looking into the FUEL COOLERS available and which one to go with,....there is so many choices out there:
*size's,...*fan assisted or not,...*Copper coolers,...*Aluminum coolers,...*Heat sinks,...ect,ect,ect
Perhaps it's not a bad idea to make a STICKY out of these "FUEL COOLER" replies,....seeing that hardly anyone KNOWS about them!
FUEL COOLERS are pretty much a BIG "WIN, WIN, WIN, WIN, WIN,WIN" situation! (in theory)
Regards NICE_N _EEEZ
08-22-2010, 12:22 PM
#32
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NICE_N_EEEZ, unfortunately, I think the concept and idea of a fuel cooler on these trucks is WAY to new and unheard of by the masses for it to become anything in the near future.....unless you create something yourself. Look how long it took FASS and Airdog to finally make a good aftermarket diesel fuel pump.
But hey, I that doesnt mean I dont think we're on to something though.
But hey, I that doesnt mean I dont think we're on to something though.
08-22-2010, 01:55 PM
#33
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On the OP's original question I ran a RASP pump for aproxx 100k. The RASP was the first belt driven pump that I am aware sold to the diesel market made by KO Engineering and distributed through DTT. They have quit selling it for unknown reasons to me at least. Mitusa and GDP came later. They look fairly similar and probably perform similar. I felt the pump was a good pump and worked as advertised. The higher the RPM the higher the pressure. The system had a hobbs switch to power the oem pump if the pressure dropped below the set point. It also had a bypass which was set generally in the 15psi range. The only problem I ever had with the rasp pump was the front seal. I had to change mine a couple times but was at most a 15 minute job. What I think was happening was dirt would get on the shaft and as time went by it would work its way up the shaft to the seal and after time would develop a leak. So what I did was put the tightest rubber oring I could get on the shaft and place it very close to the seal. After I did that I did not have any more seal problems. I did remove my RASP about a year ago. I put a cam in and it had a fuel pump lobe on it. I then put a 12 valve mechanical fuel pump on in place of the stock oem one. This reduced the plumbing under the hood substantially and you sure don't here about many 12 valve fuel pumps going out. They do go out but nothing like the oem electric ones and they are less than 100.00 to boot.
I only have 400hp and the 12v pump has never given any sign of not supplying enough fuel and it will produce at least 39psi as that pegs my gauge (I tested it without the bypass once).
While no pump is bulletproof the mechanical ones seem to be far less liable to develop a problem. There is no motor, no brushes, no electrical issues to develop a problem, just a pump. While on the belt driven ones it is true that you have a belt to worry about. However the belt is insignificant in the grand picture first if it fails you have an automatic cutover to the stock pump and secondly if it does fail it is obvious so no real testing or troubleshooting time is taken and takes less than 5 minutes to replace. Mine never failed in 100k though I did have a spare in the glove box.
I certainly have nothing against Fass or Airdog (among others) as they seem to have many ardent supporters who will go so far as to say all other pumps suck (no pun intended). I am sure they are good pumps and I would certainly use one if I wasn't using a mechanical one. However you see threads or at least did relatively frequently about a bad motor or pressure drop etc etc. I have never seen a thread like that about a RASP, GDP or MITUSA. May be due to the relatively low population that uses them.
I guess to sum it up my personal experience with a belt driven mechanical pump was very good and if I had not put in a cam with the fuel pump lobe on it I would still be running it.
As far as fuel cooling take a look here a fair amount of testing etc
http://www.turbodieselregister.com/f...ur-inputs.html
I only have 400hp and the 12v pump has never given any sign of not supplying enough fuel and it will produce at least 39psi as that pegs my gauge (I tested it without the bypass once).
While no pump is bulletproof the mechanical ones seem to be far less liable to develop a problem. There is no motor, no brushes, no electrical issues to develop a problem, just a pump. While on the belt driven ones it is true that you have a belt to worry about. However the belt is insignificant in the grand picture first if it fails you have an automatic cutover to the stock pump and secondly if it does fail it is obvious so no real testing or troubleshooting time is taken and takes less than 5 minutes to replace. Mine never failed in 100k though I did have a spare in the glove box.
I certainly have nothing against Fass or Airdog (among others) as they seem to have many ardent supporters who will go so far as to say all other pumps suck (no pun intended). I am sure they are good pumps and I would certainly use one if I wasn't using a mechanical one. However you see threads or at least did relatively frequently about a bad motor or pressure drop etc etc. I have never seen a thread like that about a RASP, GDP or MITUSA. May be due to the relatively low population that uses them.
I guess to sum it up my personal experience with a belt driven mechanical pump was very good and if I had not put in a cam with the fuel pump lobe on it I would still be running it.
As far as fuel cooling take a look here a fair amount of testing etc
http://www.turbodieselregister.com/f...ur-inputs.html
08-22-2010, 02:03 PM
#34
Cooling the VP44 is certainly not a new idea by any means....... I recall members mounting heat sinks and trying all kinds of various means of cooling the VP44 but unfortunately it failed to help the problems, so those old threads drifted off into obscurity.....
08-22-2010, 03:11 PM
#35
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Great post BarryG. Its always nice to hear from the crowd who isn't so conforming. But then again, how is anyone supposed to know what works and what doesn't if no one speaks up. I think the main reason mechanical pumps didnt go over in the early days is because there was very little talk about them, the 12v guys didn't care, and everyone was so busy trying to set up a pusher pump on their 24v.
I really like the mechanical pump idea. Without a doubt, I'd have one if I hadn't just spent almost $500 on the set up I have. And hopefully I dont ever have to change it.
Also, I'd love to read the link you posted but unfortunately TDR wont let anyone who isn't a member see anything but the first post in the thread. There's so much information floating around in the three diesel websites I currently view that I dont see the need to pay anymore for TDR.
And Lary Ellis (Top), I dont remember anyone talking about fuel coolers and when I did some searches on that topic awhile ago, there wasn't anything out there. I've been on these forums for about 9 years now but maybe that topic was around when I simply had no interest in it or I hadn't had my VP fail on me yet so I didn't see the point. At that time, I was still wondering if I should increase my fuel line diameter.
In this economy and how expensive the aftermarket stuff is for these trucks, I'm sure there's only a small number of guys who have the money to replace stuff on a hunch or because they're being proactive.
I really like the mechanical pump idea. Without a doubt, I'd have one if I hadn't just spent almost $500 on the set up I have. And hopefully I dont ever have to change it.
Also, I'd love to read the link you posted but unfortunately TDR wont let anyone who isn't a member see anything but the first post in the thread. There's so much information floating around in the three diesel websites I currently view that I dont see the need to pay anymore for TDR.
And Lary Ellis (Top), I dont remember anyone talking about fuel coolers and when I did some searches on that topic awhile ago, there wasn't anything out there. I've been on these forums for about 9 years now but maybe that topic was around when I simply had no interest in it or I hadn't had my VP fail on me yet so I didn't see the point. At that time, I was still wondering if I should increase my fuel line diameter.
In this economy and how expensive the aftermarket stuff is for these trucks, I'm sure there's only a small number of guys who have the money to replace stuff on a hunch or because they're being proactive.
08-22-2010, 05:50 PM
#36
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Great post BarryG. Its always nice to hear from the crowd who isn't so conforming. But then again, how is anyone supposed to know what works and what doesn't if no one speaks up. I think the main reason mechanical pumps didnt go over in the early days is because there was very little talk about them, the 12v guys didn't care, and everyone was so busy trying to set up a pusher pump on their 24v.
I really like the mechanical pump idea. Without a doubt, I'd have one if I hadn't just spent almost $500 on the set up I have. And hopefully I dont ever have to change it.
Also, I'd love to read the link you posted but unfortunately TDR wont let anyone who isn't a member see anything but the first post in the thread. There's so much information floating around in the three diesel websites I currently view that I dont see the need to pay anymore for TDR.
And Lary Ellis (Top), I dont remember anyone talking about fuel coolers and when I did some searches on that topic awhile ago, there wasn't anything out there. I've been on these forums for about 9 years now but maybe that topic was around when I simply had no interest in it or I hadn't had my VP fail on me yet so I didn't see the point. At that time, I was still wondering if I should increase my fuel line diameter. In this economy and how expensive the aftermarket stuff is for these trucks, I'm sure there's only a small number of guys who have the money to replace stuff on a hunch or because they're being proactive.
I really like the mechanical pump idea. Without a doubt, I'd have one if I hadn't just spent almost $500 on the set up I have. And hopefully I dont ever have to change it.
Also, I'd love to read the link you posted but unfortunately TDR wont let anyone who isn't a member see anything but the first post in the thread. There's so much information floating around in the three diesel websites I currently view that I dont see the need to pay anymore for TDR.
And Lary Ellis (Top), I dont remember anyone talking about fuel coolers and when I did some searches on that topic awhile ago, there wasn't anything out there. I've been on these forums for about 9 years now but maybe that topic was around when I simply had no interest in it or I hadn't had my VP fail on me yet so I didn't see the point. At that time, I was still wondering if I should increase my fuel line diameter.
In this economy and how expensive the aftermarket stuff is for these trucks, I'm sure there's only a small number of guys who have the money to replace stuff on a hunch or because they're being proactive."Larry Ellis" (top) is right upto a certain extent.
Havent found anything on this site,....but other web-sites reveal "some" fuel cooler testing,...however each and everyone of those posts are at least 5 to 7 years old!
ALOT has changed technology-wise in the past nearly decade in the automotive industry and thus also in the working of their components.
Fuel Coolers have been used for decades,...mostly in the Motor-Yacht and Ship industry which explains why a lot of people never heard of them.
Anyway,...to make a very long debate/story a bit shorter: (too late LOL)
Fuel Coolers will only be interesting for people living in the HOT States to actually gain a benefit from it.
The VP44 has an undocumented fuel temperature limit of 160 degrees,....which is nothing for vehicles in the HOT States,.....heck my paint reaches well over the 160's my truck just being sat there on my driveway!
Infact this summer Texas along with 18 other States has reached triple digits actual ambiend temps on several days/weeks,...and the heat index for those days/weeks was well,....you do the math!
Triple digits without actually driving that is, and thus without returning HOT fuel to your tank,....sooo it's very likely, that the BOSCH VP44 160 degree barrier will get passed in the first 30 minutes of driving!
Even if the actual fuel temp only drops 15-20 degrees with fuel cooler (in those hot days) it helps prolonging the life of my EXPENSIVE VP!
And,...well lets face it, a Fuel Cooler runs only about $150.00 you cannot really "LOOSE" anything for THAT kind of money,...can ya?
Katoom,....your a member of THREE forums?
Holy crap,.....is ONE forum not enough to keep up with?
BTW you were on about a website with detailed vp44 info you lost,...well ran into this one will this website help?
Large vp44 cutaway pic which you can actually enlarge when you click on it>>>http://www.schule-bw.de/schularten/b.../vp44farbe.jpg
Regards NICE_N_EEEZ
08-22-2010, 07:30 PM
#37
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wow did this thread ever go sideways.
OP -
i have a MITUSA pump from Opie and it has been great. i completely removed the old lift pump system and am running all mechanical. so, yes, that means i have no backup. i have had it for over a year now, and it has been through all extremes in all seasons hot or cold. i only had one issue and it was leaking at the seal. Opie had another one to me right away and I sent the old back. it has been good since then. the install was super easy, especially because i removed anything OEM. the MITUSA system can be sent to you with a regulator you can choose between a couple different pressures. i am not worried about a belt failure. it is tucked up nicely out of the way. they only way a belt is gonna fail is if it gets so dry it crack, someone cuts it, or you are rock crawling with decent sized branches/objects protruding up underneath the vehicle.
Opie said he used to run the OEM system as backup, but now sees no need for it as the pump system seems to have proven itself. another issue i didn't see mentioned was FP on initial startup without the OEM LP to prime. don't worry about it, my mechanical FP gauge starts reading before the engine is even cranking on it's own. as soon as the starter starts turning the crank - you have FP.
i can only think of 2 CONS - one is the fact priming after doing injectors or filter changes requires a little more than a key bump (just need a drill and about 5 extra mins).
the second is i now have a slow oil leak at the front of the pan. this was my fault. Opie said to coat the bolts in RTV, but instead i thought it would be better to fill the holes with RTV and then thread the bolts in. i think i hydrolocked the bolt by doing so. had i done it as he suggested, i'm sure i would be leak free from that area.
HTH, and if you have any other questions let us know.
OP -
i have a MITUSA pump from Opie and it has been great. i completely removed the old lift pump system and am running all mechanical. so, yes, that means i have no backup. i have had it for over a year now, and it has been through all extremes in all seasons hot or cold. i only had one issue and it was leaking at the seal. Opie had another one to me right away and I sent the old back. it has been good since then. the install was super easy, especially because i removed anything OEM. the MITUSA system can be sent to you with a regulator you can choose between a couple different pressures. i am not worried about a belt failure. it is tucked up nicely out of the way. they only way a belt is gonna fail is if it gets so dry it crack, someone cuts it, or you are rock crawling with decent sized branches/objects protruding up underneath the vehicle.
Opie said he used to run the OEM system as backup, but now sees no need for it as the pump system seems to have proven itself. another issue i didn't see mentioned was FP on initial startup without the OEM LP to prime. don't worry about it, my mechanical FP gauge starts reading before the engine is even cranking on it's own. as soon as the starter starts turning the crank - you have FP.
i can only think of 2 CONS - one is the fact priming after doing injectors or filter changes requires a little more than a key bump (just need a drill and about 5 extra mins).
the second is i now have a slow oil leak at the front of the pan. this was my fault. Opie said to coat the bolts in RTV, but instead i thought it would be better to fill the holes with RTV and then thread the bolts in. i think i hydrolocked the bolt by doing so. had i done it as he suggested, i'm sure i would be leak free from that area.
HTH, and if you have any other questions let us know.
08-22-2010, 08:30 PM
#38
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Thanks Nick02Ram!
THATS EXACTLY what i'm looking for,.....reliability, and the piece of mind that IF it goes wrong your OEM pump will take over without killing your VP44!
Your PSI's are quite high,....is a regulator coming with this set so ya can reduce it?
Common guys,....is there anyone else here who uses belt driven pumps?
Thanks again
regards NICE_N_EEEZ
THATS EXACTLY what i'm looking for,.....reliability, and the piece of mind that IF it goes wrong your OEM pump will take over without killing your VP44!
Your PSI's are quite high,....is a regulator coming with this set so ya can reduce it?
Common guys,....is there anyone else here who uses belt driven pumps?
Thanks again
regards NICE_N_EEEZ
It comes with a relief valve, cant remember what pressure exactly its set to open at, but its in the3 return line. When pressure gets to a certain point, it just pumps the excess back to the tank. But my pressures have never gone over 20, so I assume thats what its at. From what I've heard, thats a max safe pressure for the VP
And yeah, like mentioned, do a search on CF, there's quite a few guys over there running em, I thought there were quite a few on here, too (since most guys have accounts at both sites)
08-22-2010, 08:34 PM
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Oh, and I started a thread on CF about cooling the VP a week or so ago. It seemed to be a hot topic for a bit, but fell off, like mentioned. Blue Chip is workin on somethin that runs the lift pump after shutdown. They be;eive that most heat damage is done after shutdown, since the abient temp under the hood is high, and isnt being evacuated by the fan. On top of that, the engine is off, so the fuel cooling the VP is no longer moving heat away. I was thinking of wiring up a computer fan on the VP's ecm and run it after the engine is off
08-22-2010, 08:56 PM
#40
And Lary Ellis (Top), I dont remember anyone talking about fuel coolers and when I did some searches on that topic awhile ago, there wasn't anything out there. I've been on these forums for about 9 years now but maybe that topic was around when I simply had no interest in it or I hadn't had my VP fail on me yet so I didn't see the point. At that time, I was still wondering if I should increase my fuel line diameter.
In this economy and how expensive the aftermarket stuff is for these trucks, I'm sure there's only a small number of guys who have the money to replace stuff on a hunch or because they're being proactive.None of it seemed to make a bit of difference one way or another in the long run but there were some good efforts being laid down by some of the guys none the less
Like NICE_N_EEEZ said, coolers are cheap and if they give you piece of mind then by all means go for it
Who knows somebody may stumble across something that really works and that can only help everybody in the end
08-22-2010, 09:21 PM
#41
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Oh, and I started a thread on CF about cooling the VP a week or so ago. It seemed to be a hot topic for a bit, but fell off, like mentioned. Blue Chip is workin on somethin that runs the lift pump after shutdown. They be;eive that most heat damage is done after shutdown, since the abient temp under the hood is high, and isnt being evacuated by the fan. On top of that, the engine is off, so the fuel cooling the VP is no longer moving heat away. I was thinking of wiring up a computer fan on the VP's ecm and run it after the engine is off
Also used in computer OVERCLOCKING sessions are:
-Liquid nitrogen
-Dry Ice
-or Liquid Helium would be pretty darn good choices to cool effectively
Tooo bad that they are sooo darn evaperative & explosive though,....would of been one heck of a cooler THAT,.....however,...they all will probably FRY your CPU by the HUGE temp changes, over a period of time!
"Liquid nitrogen may be used to cool an overclocked PC.As liquid nitrogen evaporates at -196 °C, far below the freezing point of water, it is valuable as an extreme coolant for short overclocking sessions.
In a typical installation of liquid nitrogen cooling, a copper or aluminum pipe is mounted on top of the processor or graphics card. After being heavily insulated against condensation, the liquid nitrogen is poured into the pipe, resulting in temperatures well below -100°C.
By welding an open pipe onto a heat sink, and insulating the pipe, it is possible to cool the processor either with liquid nitrogen, which has a temperature below −196°C, or dry ice. However, after the nitrogen evaporates, it has to be refilled. In the realm of personal computers, this method of cooling is seldom used in contexts other than overclocking trial-runs and record-setting attempts, as the CPU will usually expire within a relatively short period of time due to temperature stress caused by changes in internal temperature.
Although liquid nitrogen is non-flammable, it can condense oxygen directly from air. Mixtures of liquid oxygen and flammable materials can be dangerously explosive.
-Liquid helium
Liquid helium, colder than liquid nitrogen, has also been used for cooling. Liquid helium evaporates at -269 °C, and temperatures ranging from -230 to -240 °C have been measured from the heatsink."
Source: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Computer_cooling
I'm "working" (in my head and with Autocad) on something aswell,.....but more in the DIRECT cooling sense then anything else.
Regards NICE_N_EEEZ
08-22-2010, 09:37 PM
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oh yeah, i forgot to mention in my post earlier . . . call DTT - they started a thread a while ago on CF putting out a feeler for anybody interetsed in a DIY mechanical LP system. if i remember correctly, they give the machined pump bracket/slider, and then you go buy the little pump from acklands, and whatever fittings/hose you need to make it work for whatever you have for tank drawstraws and filtration. certainly worth a phone call to DTT
08-22-2010, 09:59 PM
#43
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oh yeah, i forgot to mention in my post earlier . . . call DTT - they started a thread a while ago on CF putting out a feeler for anybody interetsed in a DIY mechanical LP system. if i remember correctly, they give the machined pump bracket/slider, and then you go buy the little pump from acklands, and whatever fittings/hose you need to make it work for whatever you have for tank drawstraws and filtration. certainly worth a phone call to DTT
I'll definitely give them a call!
Good to know that BOTH systems MITUSA and GDP Fuel Boss are VERY reliable!
Do you remember what you paid for the MITUSA version last year?
I tried to contact Opie a couple days ago,....but my e-mail got returned saying his e-mail box was full,....tried calling but no luck there either.
Thanks in advance again.
Regards NICE_N_EEEZ
08-22-2010, 10:50 PM
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i don't recall the exact price . . . but i do know it was cheaper than the airdog sale!!! mind you - that didn't include filtration, but it did allow me to customize my filtration setup. i believe his prices may have gone up now though.
opie can be tough to get a hold of at times. be patient though, it's worth the wait. also, be completely honest with him if you have any issues. don't hide anything or do anything behind his back. i have seen guys do that and it gets them nowhere. i have had great pleasure in dealing with him, except the fact at times he can be hard to contact.
also, i should mention. another member mentioned the RASP pump in some earlier posts. well, this was disptributed through DTT (who put out the feeler on CF for the DIY version. just thought i'd put 2 & 2 together for you . . . if you hadn't already.
opie can be tough to get a hold of at times. be patient though, it's worth the wait. also, be completely honest with him if you have any issues. don't hide anything or do anything behind his back. i have seen guys do that and it gets them nowhere. i have had great pleasure in dealing with him, except the fact at times he can be hard to contact.
also, i should mention. another member mentioned the RASP pump in some earlier posts. well, this was disptributed through DTT (who put out the feeler on CF for the DIY version. just thought i'd put 2 & 2 together for you . . . if you hadn't already.
08-23-2010, 01:09 AM
#45
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NICE_N_EEEZ, no I havent found that website with the VP cut away. Its on my work computer. And the link you posted didnt work either but if its the same one as you posted before then its a CG picture of the VP, right? The website I saw was multiple real pictures of a VP in pieces.
Also, I know that given the summer heat, your probably sick of being hot yourself but dont worry, I'm more than sure that the VP isn't going to get above 160* as long as there's plenty of fuel getting to it. The fuel tank holds to much fuel volume for the VP to offset and the fact that the tank is far from the engine and heat will wick in the fuel lines. The only thing that could offset the tank temp enough to consider would be when the fuel level gets really really low and thats not good to risk anyways because running out of fuel is detrimental to the VP anyways. So in the summer, try to keep the fuel tank no less than 1/3 full.
There was someone (cant remember which forum) who was monitoring their fuel temps while driving in hot summer heat and with the tank half full the fuel temps at the VP were in the mid 150's*.
This doesn't mean I dont think we need something to help keep the VP cooler either but that the fuel temps aren't going to get as high as your worrying about. The one fact that I think is important enough to worry about is heat "cycles". The VP's reliability and heat cycles have been linked. That being described as, the VP runs happy until you turn the engine off then the heat soak from the engine block pushes the VP's temp up close to 200*, which is a problem. This is where a marine blower and some 3-4" vent hose comes into play. If we could keep the heat soak to a minimum by having a timer controlled fan pulling cooler outside air running after the engine is shut down then maybe that would help. Just on a side note, Chip at bluechipdiesel tried to come up with a way to let the fuel pump run for an allotted amount of time after the engine was off so the fuel would continue to cool the VP until the engine cooled a bit but insurance liability became and issue incase of a crash. Then not to mention that the VP isn't supposed to allow fuel to pass through unless its running so the way this would work would only be on custom made VP's Chip sold which were modified to work like that. In short, thats not going to happen.
But no matter, I think fuel coolers and/or ducting with with or without fans is going to be better than not.
Hey, I didn't mean to repeat most of your comments either. I started typing this hours ago and when I came back to the computer and posted it.....I didn't see anyone else's posts.
Also, I know that given the summer heat, your probably sick of being hot yourself but dont worry, I'm more than sure that the VP isn't going to get above 160* as long as there's plenty of fuel getting to it. The fuel tank holds to much fuel volume for the VP to offset and the fact that the tank is far from the engine and heat will wick in the fuel lines. The only thing that could offset the tank temp enough to consider would be when the fuel level gets really really low and thats not good to risk anyways because running out of fuel is detrimental to the VP anyways. So in the summer, try to keep the fuel tank no less than 1/3 full.
There was someone (cant remember which forum) who was monitoring their fuel temps while driving in hot summer heat and with the tank half full the fuel temps at the VP were in the mid 150's*.
This doesn't mean I dont think we need something to help keep the VP cooler either but that the fuel temps aren't going to get as high as your worrying about. The one fact that I think is important enough to worry about is heat "cycles". The VP's reliability and heat cycles have been linked. That being described as, the VP runs happy until you turn the engine off then the heat soak from the engine block pushes the VP's temp up close to 200*, which is a problem. This is where a marine blower and some 3-4" vent hose comes into play. If we could keep the heat soak to a minimum by having a timer controlled fan pulling cooler outside air running after the engine is shut down then maybe that would help. Just on a side note, Chip at bluechipdiesel tried to come up with a way to let the fuel pump run for an allotted amount of time after the engine was off so the fuel would continue to cool the VP until the engine cooled a bit but insurance liability became and issue incase of a crash. Then not to mention that the VP isn't supposed to allow fuel to pass through unless its running so the way this would work would only be on custom made VP's Chip sold which were modified to work like that. In short, thats not going to happen.
But no matter, I think fuel coolers and/or ducting with with or without fans is going to be better than not.
Hey, I didn't mean to repeat most of your comments either. I started typing this hours ago and when I came back to the computer and posted it.....I didn't see anyone else's posts.
