VP44 Life Expectancy with P0216 code
 

I discovered I had a P0216 code that I couldn't clear on my Scangauge II, just before leaving on a 3,000 mile trip. Made trip; mileage dropped from 17 to 14 on the way out (4K load), 18 on the way back unloaded (normally would expect 20 or more empty). Truck sounds normal. How long do I dare run it before changing VP44? I have had a Fass HPFP for a couple of years; no less than 14 psi fuel pressure since then. Thanks for any advice.

I drove for 8-9 months with the code before I just couldn't take it anymore, and changed the pump. But conversely the pump or electronics may fail outright anytime as well.

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i drove for 6 months with code on. mopar rebuilt units last 15 months and 40,000 kms absolute garbage. i have put three on before putting a fass lift pump. what brand should i put on next? is it normal to get only 650 kms to 120L tank? the turbo has been tweaked, bigger cone air intake filter, no chip anymore.....

That's around 16-17 mpg, still pretty decent.


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I made about 6,000 miles after the code showed up. Then it was so bad I didn't trust it.

I have not read about a pump going totaly dead with just that code.I drove mine for about 8 months and the fuel usage is what was a killer. I also smoked gray/white smoke when going down mtn passes using the pakbrake. I mean if you were behind me you couldn't see the road.
I put anout 15,000 miles after the dead peddle and the code.

drove 40,000 miles before it left me stranded with out any pedal response

VP44 replacement notes
 

Thanks for the replies. I replaced the VP44 yesterday. Truck sounds / runs great. Took 7 hours, but I lost 1+ hours because air horn gasket tore (had to go buy replacement) and I had questions about the banjo bolt gaskets (same size gaskets for inlet and return, despite different shaft ODs). Jacob at DAP (Diesel Auto Power) was great to work with - when I called and told him the gaskets were the same size (rather than different IDs as original banjo bolts had), he called MWFI (rebuilder of the pump) and confirmed that was correct. DAP will loan you the gear puller to remove gear from pump shaft (you pay for it but they refund $ upon return). Pump gear was difficult to remove but finally got it (tapping with hammer while tightening puller bolts). When re-installing 27mm nut on pump, the motor started turning before reaching 125 ft*lbs - had to bar alternator nut while torquing pump nut - somewhat awkward to do by yourself... Took pump nut off 3 times while torquing to make sure key was centered in keyway; painting end of key white helped see it (as has been mentioned). Diesel Dan's tip to put a layer of paper between 15mm socket and the nut holding the pump to the gear housing really helped (for the nut that is hardest to reach). I wish I had cut a slot in a box wrench to tighten the six injector lines on the pump (as has been suggested), it would have saved considerable time. Maybe this will help someone else? Didn't take too long to prime system with the Fass HPFP. Thanks to everyone for helpful hints!