maxwell

I think I understand, it is a 5 pin relay but only four wires at the relay socket, two wires from the OEM lift pump connector, (which should energize/close the relay) and two others of which one comes directly from the battery to the relay socket, then from relay socket to the lift pump, the negative wire from the battery runs thru the wire loom and right to the lift pump.

I shall dig out my test light tommorrow and hook it up to the hot wire to see if it remains lit when engine is running.

I get so little time to work on her that I have a tendancy to over-nuke this crap, I think. Thanks!

KATOOM

Using a regular 12 volt test light..... If you have the right relay and its wired correctly, then the pin going to the fuel pump should be hot when the engine is running. When you're cranking the engine the pin NOT connected to anything should alternate on/off rapidly. Meaning when testing with the 12 volt tester the test light bulb should turn on and off when cranking but remain off when the engine is running. On a side note, that pin should be shielded all the time because it is hot for those moments. Dont want anything grounding it by accident.

maxwell

Seems all is right with the Lift Pump Gods and now I have 18+ psi at ALL times to the VP44.

A note to all, once again Thanks to all and thanks to Katoom for those ideas to help me figure out *** over.

(Katoom, I had to buy a new test light since on a trial run my old light ended up on the road and I drove over it,,,) Got a fancy one now.

So,,, now I present myself with this years Dummy Award, when I went to see my pal at the auto store to get a new test light, we talked a bit and I told him what was going on, so at check out he said try putting on a new fuel filter, I told him I did about 10 months ago after replacing the VP44 and injectors, but to humor him and a bet of a bottle of Crown Royal I bought a new fuel filter.

Got home pulled the old filter out and didnt see any significant dirt or what, but when I set the filter down in bucket I use for this,, all this REALLY fine black sooty looking crap started settling on the bottom of the bucket as the fuel drained off the filter.

I said "Krap"... This filter was packed with this real fine crud. Packed enough to give 18 ps i until the engine was running then nada.

I put in the new filter and ran lift pump with the water drain open to help get rid of air, I couldnt close that drain fast enough before I got about two qts fuel all over the drive way.

Strted her up with the pressure gage attached and 18 psi ALL the time, on test drive I had the truck at about 90mph right about 2500 RPM and ran smooth as could be, no hesitation, bucking, even on full throttle green light launch.

I dont see a smiley for me that is kicking myself in the nards, this is me kicking myself, "ouch". As long as I didnt do any damage to the VP I say great.

Tomorrow I am going to look and by some sort permanent pressure gage in cab!!

Any recomendations for a complete turn key type pressure kit??

Thanks!! ( That Crown Royal is REALLYY expensive)

KATOOM

What do you mean by recomendations for a complete turn key type pressure kit? Do you not have a fuel pressure gauge in the cab?

maxwell

I do not have a pressure gage in cab yet. Does a kit exist such as the connector, tubing and gage? or do I piece together those items? Thats what I meant.

jrs_dodge_diesel

Yes, most vendors (Diesel Manor, Geno's Garage, etc) will sell a fuel pressure gauge kit.

Glad you were able to find out what your problem was.

One of these days, I would like to see a company start selling a differential pressure gauge, which measures the pressure drop across a filter. As a filter clogs up, the pressure difference increases and shows on that gauge. The Caterpillar engines we had on my last ship all had them on the primary oil, air, and fuel filters. Very handy to have.

KATOOM

Unfortunately I dont think there are any plug and play fuel pressure gauge kits. At least any quality ones. But thats OK because they arent that hard putting something together.

Just look around and decide on what gauge manufacture and style you want and where you want the gauge mounted in the cab, then I can help you with what parts you'll need. Also, how your fuel pump system is plumbed makes a difference on what parts you'll need too.

maxwell

Thanks, I am looking through Genos website at some interesting gages and hoses, they have a model that appears to be a schrader port with a long hose and gage fixed to the end, not unlike my pressure test gage, but a bit fancier, though I read you do not want a gage or what inside your cab that might leak and spill fuel in the cab, you need a sending unit?

KATOOM

The Geno's gauge you're describing sounds like their fuel pressure test gauge. Certainly a great tool to have in the tool box but not what you're after for constant monitoring.

You're only options are:
You can install a pillar gauge overlay which either replaces or covers the current pillar plastic and has gauge mount holes for up to 3 gauges. Or there are other solo gauge mounts that attach to the steering column or ones that universally mount to wherever you choose. Those will be for electrical or mechanical analog gauges. Depending on if they're electrical or mechanical will determine what wires or hoses run into the cab. My preference is ISSPRO or Autometer or many of the other various high quality gauges.

Or your other option is to buy a performance box that incorporates an LCD screen display which houses many gauges all in one. If you dont want to up the hp then I believe you can buy just the display but you'd want to call Edge Performance to find that out.

Tallguy67

Katoom is referring to the Edge Insite. I have an Insite and it let's me display any parameter the EMC monitors plus you can add on extra data collection devices. I have two pressure sensors sitting on the bench waiting for me to install them - one for fuel pressure and one for oil pressure. You can also add a pyrometer if you have boosted your fuel and want to keep an eye on your EGTs.