Truck wont go past 20!
#16
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#17
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#18
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All it does is keep you from spinning your wheels on dry pavement (no prob when its wet) If you hold the brakes and go WOT the boost builds and drops right off, builds again and drops off, and keeps repeating till you let go of the gas or brake and you really feel the power drop off, or on a WOT run from 1st gear it looses power between shifts (1st to 2nd) then after it hits second you get full power again, not so much an RPM drop as it just goes flat while the rpms climb. it becomes more noticeable on the higher J/A settings . I'd dont know how to explain it any easier, just be thankful you dont have it I guess
#19
The P1693 DTC is known as a companion code, both the truck and engine computers know about it. You might try getting a free scan from a chain type auto parts store to see which DTC is stored. It might be an old code that hasn't been reset or maybe an Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor (APPS) DTC.
#20
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try the simplest thing first. Trans fluid level or is it burnt?
the trans relay under the hood,
then the speed sensor on the back of the trans (easy swap), (I think there's one on the diffential too?)
or the solenoid inside the trans, need to drop the pan do do it.
I had the same symptoms before and ended up it was the solenoid was bad.....or look at the VP44 similar symptoms.
here is my troubleshooting flow chart for checking the VP44:
1. has fuel in tank? add more fresh -diesel just to be sure. fuel gauge bad?
2. engine cranks, batteries charged?
3. any leak in the fuel plumbing? check filter cannister lid,
4. Any codes? cycle the key & read odometer,
5. installed new fuel filter?
6. lift pump works? check at banjo bolt to the VP44
7. re-bleed the system at banjo bolt inlet to VP44,
8. bleed injectors, loosen (3) injector fittings, crank engine, and fuel only dribbles out at best, and not as much comes out as it did at the banjo bolt?
9. temporarily swapp the "fuel system" and "ASD" relays with other of the same known operational relays (at least I'm sure the other relays are good)
10. pulled the connector off the VP44 and checked the voltages with key in "run" position, and start. I'm not sure about the pin numbers
but looking at the connector in the "smily face position" (you will know when you see it) you should have 12v on the lower right pin,
There may be some more but this is what I remember
Question: has anyone ever had a bad "return check valve" of the VP44?
the trans relay under the hood,
then the speed sensor on the back of the trans (easy swap), (I think there's one on the diffential too?)
or the solenoid inside the trans, need to drop the pan do do it.
I had the same symptoms before and ended up it was the solenoid was bad.....or look at the VP44 similar symptoms.
here is my troubleshooting flow chart for checking the VP44:
1. has fuel in tank? add more fresh -diesel just to be sure. fuel gauge bad?
2. engine cranks, batteries charged?
3. any leak in the fuel plumbing? check filter cannister lid,
4. Any codes? cycle the key & read odometer,
5. installed new fuel filter?
6. lift pump works? check at banjo bolt to the VP44
7. re-bleed the system at banjo bolt inlet to VP44,
8. bleed injectors, loosen (3) injector fittings, crank engine, and fuel only dribbles out at best, and not as much comes out as it did at the banjo bolt?
9. temporarily swapp the "fuel system" and "ASD" relays with other of the same known operational relays (at least I'm sure the other relays are good)
10. pulled the connector off the VP44 and checked the voltages with key in "run" position, and start. I'm not sure about the pin numbers
but looking at the connector in the "smily face position" (you will know when you see it) you should have 12v on the lower right pin,
There may be some more but this is what I remember
Question: has anyone ever had a bad "return check valve" of the VP44?
#21
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Same
I have several E codes, took it in to have a diagnostics done, need to find the codes again, Crank pos. sen, emc mod, hydpo pump, and two more... will come back with those..... The shop I took her to, told me $4,200 to fix... WOW!
#23
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We bought an '01 cab and chassis this spring that's doing the same thing, acts like it's in limp mode but after you drive a minute or two it comes out of it and runs good. We got our's as a repo and the bank had it in a shop getting some work done to it and they scanned it and said it showed a bad crankshaft position sensor. I've got a new sensor for it but haven't had time to mess with it yet. Our's hasn't gotten any worse in the couple of months that we've had it.
#24
well i took it to get a scan they told me it had no codes but that same 1693 comes up if you do the key deal i just bought a hotrod vp cuz some one said it could be the vp and its still doing it
#25
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take it somewhere else and get it scanned....p1693 is a companion diagnostic trouble code which tells you have set a code in both the ECM and PCM
#26
Don't throw parts at it especially not parts as expensive as a vp. Incorrect parts won't fix it and are akin to urinating off the high side of a sail boat. The 1693 is a companion code. This is well documented. Not all scanners are the same. First try more of the free scanners at the chain stores. Here (mid TN), some stores/scanners will clear codes. Others won't. Next step is to find a reputable shop (probably not the *******) & have them scan it. Also, make sure that any aftermarket add ons are completely disconnected and not affecting anything until you get the problem diagnosed & stock truck working.
#27
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I Found this thread as i was serching when my 01 truck does the same thing, rpm dont go past 1400. Happened after pressure washing the engine slightly!
i removed the batterycables and reset the apps, and it worked fine for 3 startups, but now it does the same thing again.
actually the pedal has only 2 positions, idle, and 1200 rpm, anything between or pas tthat its the same!
i removed the batterycables and reset the apps, and it worked fine for 3 startups, but now it does the same thing again.
actually the pedal has only 2 positions, idle, and 1200 rpm, anything between or pas tthat its the same!
#28
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not tryin to but in but i have a 94 ram 2500 with the 47re trans. it was shiftin just fine stopped at a red light and took off and wont go over 28 mph. i have since rebuilt the trans adjusted the bands cleaned the valve body and it still does the same thing... there is no lights coming on so i havent read the codes.. the only thing that ive done to the engine is take the silencer out of the turbo and change the oil. i have the fuel filter off and am gonna replace it.... i need help
#29
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I have the same problem with mine and have for monthes, my saga is worth reading about (do a search it is interresting reading, before you spend money on big parts,)
i have replaced the dif speed sensor the trans speed sensor. govenor pressure sol. and transducer. fixed a broken wire, changed the trans filter changed the fluid like 6 times, (for other reasons)
I still feel like its electrical, because-- I found that i can rese the computer that affects this, by, shutting the truck off leaving the ig. switch in the on position,- unhook the grounds, (both) rehook them back up ,shut hood and restart, and as long as I dont shut the truck off the truck will shift perfect, until i shut it off.
truthfull i keep trying diferent things and the next one will be to check the bands in the tranny as someone on here suggested that, (I dont think its that) as I said after I reset the comp. it will shift perfect all day, I wouldn't think band would work if that was the case.
anyways I will keep an eye on this thread, because this seems like the same problem, and if i figure out somethin i will let you guys know,
i have replaced the dif speed sensor the trans speed sensor. govenor pressure sol. and transducer. fixed a broken wire, changed the trans filter changed the fluid like 6 times, (for other reasons)
I still feel like its electrical, because-- I found that i can rese the computer that affects this, by, shutting the truck off leaving the ig. switch in the on position,- unhook the grounds, (both) rehook them back up ,shut hood and restart, and as long as I dont shut the truck off the truck will shift perfect, until i shut it off.
truthfull i keep trying diferent things and the next one will be to check the bands in the tranny as someone on here suggested that, (I dont think its that) as I said after I reset the comp. it will shift perfect all day, I wouldn't think band would work if that was the case.
anyways I will keep an eye on this thread, because this seems like the same problem, and if i figure out somethin i will let you guys know,
#30
Chapter President
Sucks that you listened to some Tard and replaced a perfectly good pump.
Sounds to me like the trans is in limp mode.
Here is some good reading on diagnosing the VP.
http://www.bluechipdiesel.com/vp44diagnostichelp.html