Truck died on me!
 

I was at a stop sign and the truck died, I was not able to start it up untill I came back to it several hours later. I was able to drive it home but the truck had no power, I was having to take off in 1st gear at the lights or just run them to keep the truck alive. After a few minutes the power was still pretty weak, but not quite as bad. The iddle seemed erratic and the truck was surging. I pulled the DTC's with a programmer and just turning the key 3 times in the inigtion and neither came up with any codes. I recently put a new LP on the block due to low fuel pressure, from my in tank pump showing 0 psi on my guage. I did this the same time I stalled the guages and I have already broke 2 fuel regulators and have the 3rd one from glowshift sitting in a box ready to install. So when this happened I did not know my fuel pressure. I am wondering if it is possible to have the in tank pump going out on me, and the LP that is bolted to the block might have trouble pulling through a bad pump. Maybe the pump in the tank is surging and messing up the Fuel regulator that I installed. I did install a snubber valve on the side of the VP and then put the regulator, but something is causing the regulators to go bad. I did bump the ignition and both the in tank pump and the new LP did come on, so I am just a little baffled here as to what is causing the truck to die and have no power....

I would remove fuel line at IP run hose to clean container. Bump starter and check flow rate min 45oz anything less you have restriction or bad pump.

problem solved, it was a VP....thanks for your help. VP replaced, new mechanical lift pump, ran 1/2 inch lines, remote filter kit, and replaced the o-rings on the cross over tubes, all is good sofar! Thanks for the help!

hey rightwinger, just out of curiosity, what was the total $$$ damage to your pocketbook to get all of this fuel related stuff repaired and installed?

Mike

Reman VP-44 $1200.00
Fuel Boss pump only $485.00
Cross over tube O-rings $5.00 (this includes buying an entire O-ring kit)
1/2 inch fuel line, fittings, and draw straw $185.00
Vulcan remote filter kit w/ extra filters & 120 micron strainer $ 180.00

I am going off memory on all of this but I think these are pretty accurate. Yes, it was a costly venture but I am glad it's finally all over.

rightwinger - thanks for the 411. So, about $2,000.00 and you did all the labour? What is your FP now at idle and under WOT conditions? I ask these things, of course, because I am trying to squirrel away some $$ for this eventuality.

Thanks for you help/info.

Mike

at idle I am at 14-15 PSI, normal driving and under load it never goes above 25PSI, never plan on taking the truck to WOT so I can't really answer that.....but getting on the throttle pretty hard still doesn't seem to go past 25 psi.......I think the regulator will not let it get higher pressure than that in the way I have it configured.

Since I laste posted I had to make a change to my setup. I had the large pulley on top, and the small pulley on the pump, this setup worked good for me but after talking to richard at GDP he informed me that the pump was not designed to spin that fast and the pump is only suppose to run 50% of the engine speed....so I have since swapped the pulleys and this does prove to be a bit harder to adjust than it was before. right now at Idle I am barely showing any fuel pressure, but once I start driving the pressure comes up real quick. The poppet valve only controls max pressure so adjusting it really does nothing for idle psi unless you are running such a heave spring in it that it is building up more pressure at idle, and then you will be very high on fuel psi once you start driving it. I think with the 1/2 lines it will be harder for me to get the idle psi where I want it but literally once you put it in gear and go the fuel jumps right up, so I might just have to adjust it so the max fuel psi is around 20-25 psi and live with it because I'm not really sure how else to get the idle psi up.