I posted on another subject, but it was combined with other things. My problem is something electrical I think, I have tried the APPS reset, I'm not sure if this is the problem or not. It seems just a general battery disconnect does the trick for a few days. Then the problem comes back, sometimes it starts off in 2nd gear, sometimes it will not lock up (tc lockup) it's just frustrating trying to figure this out.

I had some corrosion on my negative batter post, so I cleaned that up, there is still some amount there around the bolt, very little, my next step is to clean this, the the terminal and connection are clean now. It's hard to find out a problem when it goes away for 2 days to a week, then pops right back up. The only thing that is the same every time, I can shut the truck off, crank it back up and everything is fine. I guess my next stop is Auto Zone to let them plug it up and see if the can find any codes. Any clues on my problems, I replaced the speed sensor, and I did not disconnect the battery at that time and it fixed it on the spot for 1 week, then right back to the same old same old. I also changed the differential fluid a few days later.

A guy looked at my motor and said it's new ??? It has 104,000 miles on the truck, I looked up a car report and it shows it never had anything done to it. The man said he knows this because the exhaust manifold is not rusty, and the only thing that is, is the something on the Turbo (cast iron piece). While checking out the transmission today I noticed some red writing on top of the transmission, what do you think ??

Thanks, Clint

 

don't feel bad I have a 1999 ram diesel quad cab 55k miles. When shifting from first to second the truck rpm's surge up and down I think it is the convertor locking in and out feels like it is up/down shifting between 28 an 32 mph with overdrive off. This will continue until i either let off or speed up. The dealer has told me that it is my batteries since I did not replace with oem batteries whick I cannot believe. They say it is a magnetic field building up and they have already rerouted the tps wires. The factory rep had no idea what it could be and today I rec'd a phone call saying they need to check all the grounds and I have to replace the batteries with oem because they think that is the problem. Every time I take it to the dealer they disconnect the batteries and when I get the truck back it takes a week or so to start happening again.

never ends

Rich

 

I just reset mine again, now I noticed tonight when the truck is warm the gear selector in the truck does not move correctly, it lags behind, I may check the TV cable. Not sure what kind of batteries mine came with, but they seem to be working fine....

OEM batteries, hmmmm, if I knew it would fix my problems then I would spend the cash. I wonder who Dodge gets to make batteries for them. If you find anything out that seems to fix it let me know, I will do likewise. I checked my grounds also, if it's a magnetic field building up, how would one go about fixing that ??


Clint

 

Keep your batteries and find a new dealer (I'm a tech and can't believe I just said that...) Of course I haven't seen your batteries but if you are like most here and basically give a hang about the general condtion of your truck and I'll assume they are clean and the terminals are in good condition. Exide make the "mopar" battery and IMHO they are junk. Out here in the desert they get hot and leak like crazy. I have them in my truck (until I pop for the twin Optimas) and have to clean them often. Your problem is your wiring harness is picking RFI from something. There is a flash available for this and that is usually the first thing I do as it's cheap and easy and takes care of most. If it re-occurs after that you pretty much have to start changing one thing at a time until you find the source. I've covered a lift pump with tin foil and gotten rid of it once. I've covered the harness from the apps to the jtec controller in accessable areas with foil tape and gotten it to go away. I even replaced the alternator on one 99 and it took care of the prob. Do a search on the subject here and you'll find lots of info. There was even one post where they showed a diagram on how to change the wiring from the APPS to the JTEC controller that has been successful from what I hear here.

 

I've replaced the ECM to PCM (JTEC) wire for the APPS signal on my 98.5 with a shielded cable routed across the firewall.
Something else to be considered is that if cleaning the battery posts helps some the other ends of these cables deserve some attention too. (Ground straps, generator plus to PDC, PDC to batt.)

Magnetic field buildup --- well yes, but not in the battery IMO. Batteries are the biggest noise filter in the system and can only work of they are connected properly.

AlpineRAM

 

Thanks for the support on the batteries I thought is was BS. They are napa batteries I purchased maybe 6 months ago and have more reserve and cca than the original batteries. I had a problem that the old batteries kept dying so I replaced them and the new ones did the same took it to the dealer they tried to blame the batteries but it was a relay for the preheat burned up so the heater was always on . I wonder if that could have damaged the alternator or regulator .

 

Well I'm further along now, no more limp mode (third gear starts) I'm almost positive this was my fuel cap, I noticed pressure when I went to fill up every time, while browsing threads I seen where some just stick them on and leave it loose, I have been doing this and no more problems with that for 2 weeks or so. I also replaced the thermostat, so could have been either, I don't won't to test it tho.

Now the TC lock up, I have narrowed this down as well, it done it today, so I started cleaning ground wires, fixed all day, made a trip to store tonight, it's 40* outside, grids did not cycle on cold engine, seat belt light stayed on?? Fired right up, TC lock up good all the way to town, engine completely warm, so I shut it down, run in the store out in 2 mins, jump in the truck grid heater cycles, fire it up, grid heaters cycle down the road several miles, with speeds up to 45 mph, the grids did stop, but no TC lock up all the way home, even after they stopped cycling.

I know for sure the grids should have come on when engine was cold, not warm, but what would cause this to happen, IAT sensor, no codes have been given.

Thanks, Clint

 

Clint, I went thru all of this. The best fix is a noise filter from DTT.
1 866 504 4002 $37 plus shipping. Many dealers are now installing this filter. Give it a try, mine has been working perfectly for almost a year now.

 

Pressure in the tank?!? I would be crawling under your truck and checking the rollover valve. Sounds like yours is one that didn't get the dust cover removed from the factory. If your rollover valve has a cap on it, remove it. The roll valve is on top of the fuel tank module. It should have a plastic nipple that looks like it should have a vac line attached to it but it doesn't. If there is a rubber cap on it remove it and throw it away.

 

I removed the plug from my rollover valve on the tank and used a bit of small vacuum hose and routed it up the filler neck, made a turn down for some inches and put a filter on it. That way the fuel tank can vent, but the rollover valve won't let in all the grime and dirt while offroading.


HTH

AlpineRAM

 

Are you guys sure your getting PRESSURE in your tanks or a vacuum?? How could you get a pressure when your sucking fuel OUT. If the cap vent doesnt work you'll get a vacuum wont you???

 

Yep, tht's right I had a vacuum in my tank. Did try to collapse the tank.

AlpineRAM

 

I will also try the filter since the last time at the dealer seems to be ok for a while everytine they disconnect and reconnect the batteries.

Thanks
Rich

 

Well another thing, If these caps are causeing a vacuum in the tank , isnt that rather hard on the fuel pumps??? Everybody is complaining about the injector pumps going south, and blaiming that failure on a bum lift pump etc . Just seems to me if you got poor venting and have a vacuum in the fuel tank , thats going to be hard on the fuel pumps!!!