Transfer Case Oil
#1
Transfer Case Oil
Guys,
I have a 1998.5 24V 5-speed and I want to know what oil is required for the transfer case. I've read that ATF is applicable for the automatics, but is it the same for the manuals? I've read that some guys simply use 80-90W and have no problems.
Thanks for the help.
Jeff
I have a 1998.5 24V 5-speed and I want to know what oil is required for the transfer case. I've read that ATF is applicable for the automatics, but is it the same for the manuals? I've read that some guys simply use 80-90W and have no problems.
Thanks for the help.
Jeff
#2
Registered User
Guys,
I have a 1998.5 24V 5-speed and I want to know what oil is required for the transfer case. I've read that ATF is applicable for the automatics, but is it the same for the manuals? I've read that some guys simply use 80-90W and have no problems.
Thanks for the help.
Jeff
I have a 1998.5 24V 5-speed and I want to know what oil is required for the transfer case. I've read that ATF is applicable for the automatics, but is it the same for the manuals? I've read that some guys simply use 80-90W and have no problems.
Thanks for the help.
Jeff
#3
Registered User
Right out of the FSM...
FLUID
STANDARD PROCEDURE - FLUID DRAIN AND
REFILL
(1) Raise vehicle.
(2) Position drain pan under transfer case.
(3) Remove drain and fill plugs and drain lubricant
completely.
(4) Install drain plug. Tighten plug to 41-54 N·m
(30-40 ft. lbs.).
(5) Remove drain pan.
(6) Fill transfer case to bottom edge of fill plug
opening with Mopart ATF +4, type 9602, Automatic
Transmission fluid.
(7) Install and tighten fill plug to 41-54 N·m
(30-40 ft. lbs.).
(8) Lower vehicle.
FLUID
STANDARD PROCEDURE - FLUID DRAIN AND
REFILL
(1) Raise vehicle.
(2) Position drain pan under transfer case.
(3) Remove drain and fill plugs and drain lubricant
completely.
(4) Install drain plug. Tighten plug to 41-54 N·m
(30-40 ft. lbs.).
(5) Remove drain pan.
(6) Fill transfer case to bottom edge of fill plug
opening with Mopart ATF +4, type 9602, Automatic
Transmission fluid.
(7) Install and tighten fill plug to 41-54 N·m
(30-40 ft. lbs.).
(8) Lower vehicle.
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nothingbutdarts (04-13-2019)
#5
Registered User
Right, do not use other stuff unless you want to throw away money..
DAMHIK. (ATF +3 and +4 were not available for a reasonable price over here, tried an alternative, got a new transfer case shipped.. for only about 20 times the $ than the right juice would have cost)
DAMHIK. (ATF +3 and +4 were not available for a reasonable price over here, tried an alternative, got a new transfer case shipped.. for only about 20 times the $ than the right juice would have cost)
#6
Hey Guys,
Thanks for the comments. I did put in some 80-90W and drove it 100 miles, but I'm going to drain it out this morning and get some ATF+4 in there ASAP. While I got you guys here, what does the FSM recommend for the front and rear diffs? Can a guy just use regular 80-90W in those?
Thanks again for the help and comments.
Regards,
Jeff
Thanks for the comments. I did put in some 80-90W and drove it 100 miles, but I'm going to drain it out this morning and get some ATF+4 in there ASAP. While I got you guys here, what does the FSM recommend for the front and rear diffs? Can a guy just use regular 80-90W in those?
Thanks again for the help and comments.
Regards,
Jeff
#7
Registered User
80/90 is just fine and I believe thats what came in the axles from the factory. What you put in them is more based on driving conditions, average ambient weather, and towing conditions. Meaning conventional 80/90 is fine for everything in the middle but if its super cold where you live or super hot where you live or you tow maximum weight all the time, then you'll want to evaluate what you put in your differentials. For instance, where I live doesnt get much colder than the 30's but it does reach triple digits in the summer and thats when I tow some heavy trailers. So I run the factory 80/90 in the front and 75/140 synthetic in the rear. I could possibly get away with a 75-90 synthetic but at the moment I'm happy with what I have.
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#8
Thanks for the clarification. I'll keep using the 80/90 for now as it sounds like this will be fine.
While I replaced the transfer case oil yesterday I noticed that the transfer case output shaft seal was leaking. I'm looking for a new seal on RockAuto, but it gives me quite a few options. Is the transfer case a NP241 or NP241HD, and is there a difference?
Thanks guys,
Jeff
While I replaced the transfer case oil yesterday I noticed that the transfer case output shaft seal was leaking. I'm looking for a new seal on RockAuto, but it gives me quite a few options. Is the transfer case a NP241 or NP241HD, and is there a difference?
Thanks guys,
Jeff
#9
Registered User
Yes there's a difference. The NP241 came in an LD and HD version. Here's some specs to help understand those differences. Dodge Ram Transfer Case Specifications
There should be a round tag on the back side which indicated what model it is, but an obvious way to identify is the HD model has the PTO cover on the passenger side of the housing, whereas the LD model does not.
As for seals, yes you'll find there's quite a few available. The output seal is notorious for leaking and some will blame it on the yoke bushing sleeve but I believe its more because the seals are not all like the factory spec. For instance, I recently got tired of replacing my output seal so I took caliper measurements of the driveshaft surface and compared to what the OEM seal spec were and what info I could on the others available. I eventually found one I thought was the correct size and 6 months later my seal is still dry. Here's hoping...
There should be a round tag on the back side which indicated what model it is, but an obvious way to identify is the HD model has the PTO cover on the passenger side of the housing, whereas the LD model does not.
As for seals, yes you'll find there's quite a few available. The output seal is notorious for leaking and some will blame it on the yoke bushing sleeve but I believe its more because the seals are not all like the factory spec. For instance, I recently got tired of replacing my output seal so I took caliper measurements of the driveshaft surface and compared to what the OEM seal spec were and what info I could on the others available. I eventually found one I thought was the correct size and 6 months later my seal is still dry. Here's hoping...
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