How much wider was the track with the ford parts?

I think I have heard it's an inch wider, but I never measured it. It doesn't look any different so I never cared.
My only issue is that the wheels do not return to center after turning as naturally as you would expect. I have been told that this is because of the mounting of the steering components or because of one or more tight ball joints. It hasn't annoyed my enough yet to do anything about it.
Here's where I got my info.
http://pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=874442

Chris

Finally got it done.
 

Well after it sitting in my garage long enough I did the swap. I had soaked all bolts with PB blaster but some were still a PITA. Its not 100% done as the donar axle needed pads and sliders but it is in and I will finish bolting up the odds and ends this week.

Truck is a 99 2500, donar axle from a 2001 2500.


The steering linkage while configured differently all connects the same to the truck. The track bar is the same as well. The steering box is the same as well as I picked up the steering box off the donar truck. Sway bar matches up as well. The axle lock mechinism is the same. Springs and contol arms are the same.

The only parts you will need to pull from the donar truck or buy new are the break lines for both sides, as the connection to the calipers and the bango bolts are different. 2000-2001 brake lines connect right in to the 99's brake hard lines. Also you will need a front u-joint and staps from a 2000-2001 to connect the front drive shaft to the yoke on the donar axle. For some reason on the 99 the u-joint caps that go into the axle yoke are bigger than what goes intl the drive shaft but the 2000-2001 ujoint cap fits both but you have to get new staps as the 99 staps aren't wide enough.

Took me and BIL all weekend to do it with a weak impact wrench and constantly searching for tools. Maybe beer shouldn't be mixed with auto repairs.

I'm doing a few other things to the truck as well so a test drive is a few weeks off but will report back when i get to drive it after the alingment.

I am interested, the mounts look to be at different angles to me?

Most of that information as been already stated ealier in this thread. You are going to have to fab up new arm mounts and do a earlier steering linkage to make the swap work. You should re-read.

I don't know why you would even try this mod. There are no upgraded ball joints available, unless you replace the knuckles and go with kingpins. A better mod would be to get an axle from a 90's something super duty ford, they have a hi pinion dana 60, heavy duty ball joints, better brakesm, cheap skate 20in rims[laugh]

Mike,

Stamey in the first post said that everything was the same, I commented that they are different. Then dieselfreak21 said he did the swap for the newer axle? Maybe I am missing something? Once you have the 2000 axle under the truck you can buy 3rd gen caliper adapters and rotors and end up with 13.8" rotors----a HUGE improvement over my small 12.5" setup

I did the swap purely for the breaks and 32 spline axle shafts. The 99 you had to pull the unit bearing then drive the studs out to change the rotor. I don't have the presses or the tools to deal with 320k on the clock. Got the donar axle cheaper than labor and 2 new unit bearing which it needed anyway. As to the ball joint issue the 99 were original at 320k and still solid. The donar has new ones with greese ports. The linkage on the axle is different but the geomerty works. Other than the parts I listed it was a direct bolt on. I had thought about the other route but don't trust my welding with a stear axle. Mcmopar what mounts were your refering to?

I've got a 2001 and a 1998 axle on the floor next to each other and the mounts where the control arms bolt up look very different? But it must be an illusion if it bolted directly up for you? What did you do for the steering linkeage?

nothing really on the stearing linkage. It will need an alinement. Even though they are difference in where tie rod ends and such and how the bar from the stearing box connectes to the axle and the steering shock setup they both give the same end result. It turns lock to lock with no binding. Still haven't gotten it out on the road yet.

Update: Everything on the swap is finally finished. Breaks are night and day difference. It alligned with no problems and drives well. So far tires are wearing well. Overall an easy project just takes some time and with a positive resutl for me.

Sounds like I should get mine done!

best thing i have done for that truck. Still a little steering wander but liveable.

In case you wonder, I laid it out on CAD, the Ford conversion adds 15/16" ( .937 ) to each side in width, no way around it. It was a deal killer for me, so I ordered a set of stock wheel bearings while I save for a Spyn-Teck setup.

From mounting flange to wheel flange on OEM is 2.970" and the Furd setup the same dimension is 3.906"